Pictures of High Mileage Engines using Mobil 1

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This is from a Toyota forum and from someone who doesn't believe flushes are needed AT ALL when using M1. Can't blame him for not buying into the engine cleaners/flushes hype....however, not all engines and driving conditions are the same.

Two pictures of my 1989 Corolla 4A-F engine with 229.487 miles http://www.saber.net/~monarch/89overview.jpg http://www.saber.net/~monarch/89buckets.jpg

Two pictures of my 1992 22R-E engine with 417,670 miles http://www.saber.net/~monarch/92camshaft.jpg http://www.saber.net/~monarch/92rockers.jpg

[ January 02, 2003, 09:29 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
Hmmm ... yeah, that's great. Then again, you have people like me: 154,000 miles, Mobil 1 and new filter EVERY 3,000 miles, with piston rings carboned into the grooves. Then again, you also have my wife's Honda Civic with 120,000 miles, regular old, whatever's-on-sale dino oil changed every 3,000 miles, and the engine innards look as bright and shiny as the day it rolled off the assembly line. I believe that in most cases it all depends on the engine and the maintenance, not the oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by buster:
This is from a Toyota forum and from someone who doesn't believe flushes are needed AT ALL when using M1.

Two pictures of my 1989 Corolla 4A-F engine with 229.487 miles http://www.saber.net/~monarch/89overview.jpg http://www.saber.net/~monarch/89buckets.jpg

Two pictures of my 1992 22R-E engine with 417,670 miles http://www.saber.net/~monarch/92camshaft.jpg http://www.saber.net/~monarch/92rockers.jpg


Buster
I don't know what your position is on the matter, but if the numbers are right and those are the engines talked about; then I totally agree with that guy. The is no varnish (that I can see) whatsoever, sludge and wear on the cam lobes seem pretty good.
I hope my Z makes it that long in that codition.
Rick
 
quote:

I believe that in most cases it all depends on the engine and the maintenance, not the oil.

I agree with this statement. Something else....those might be mostly highway miles, which of course makes a big diffenrence.
Rick

[ January 02, 2003, 06:00 PM: Message edited by: Last_Z ]
 
I agree. My position is that it all depends on the engine and driving conditions. To make a broad sweeping generalization that no one ever would need a flush/cleaner using Mobil 1, like this guy did, is wrong in my opinion.
smile.gif
and I'm sure there is evidence to back me up on this.

[ January 02, 2003, 09:14 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
What this picture doesn't show is the amount of carbonization in the ring packs.

I believe a good flush twice a year (with Neutra and or LC), or running a special ester package (as in Auto-RX) will definately keep the rings freed-up, and scavenge the recesses of the engine block.

[ January 02, 2003, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
Thats true Molakule. What about the valve lifters? Over all thought, I guess we can't underestimate the cleaner power of Mobil 1!

[ January 02, 2003, 07:11 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
Those do look clean inside. I have never personally had a car that used Synthetic oil from day one. Even the wife's car had Delo 400 for the first 25K or so - and yes there is a varnish color that is just ever so slowly being cleaned off with Amsoil 5W-30 for the last 40K miles - but it's not as clean as those engines.

To me what is interesting just how fast the varnish appears - and then I wonder - how bad is this light varnish?
grin.gif
 
I don't believe the captions on those photos. Those engines are too clean...not even scraps of a stuck gasket, almost no wear on the cams, no residue in out-of-the-way corners...too clean.

Ken
 
u kno i have no idea what it would look like inside an engine, but really i remember taking my head off to give myself a valve adjustment...everything was dandy clean...i was like wow...but then i was using a regular fram filter and penzoil with 1 qt of syntec synthetic fluid..and a little bit of "restore" additive...now i use only mobil drive clean...hehe my dad didnt really know what he was doing before...so im trying to clean it up...who wants to donate neutra..? hehe
 
I totally believe those pictures. I have an '87 Grand National I bought new that now has 116K miles that I use Castrol GTX 10w-30 and a Fram oil filter every 3K miles. When my oil pan was seaping bad enough to drop the pan (@ 100K) the bottom-end looked great and the oil pan looked like the advertising Mobil 1 used to do. There was no sludge at all. I drive this car HARD with several 1/4 run in the summer and it runs like a top with all the compression ratio well within spec. It is all in the change interval..3K with dino should give the same results as 5K with synthetic.

[ January 03, 2003, 10:21 AM: Message edited by: dagmando ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ken2:
I don't believe the captions on those photos. Those engines are too clean...not even scraps of a stuck gasket, almost no wear on the cams, no residue in out-of-the-way corners...too clean.

Ken


Considering monarch has proven himself to be a liar on this forum, I don't believe it either. He could have run Auto RX through those engines 10 times before he took the photos and then claim he never ran an engine cleaner through it.
 
I'm not impressed at all.

Show us pics of the combustion chamber, cylinder walls, piston rings, etc....
 
We really don't know how much wear is on the cams since micrometer results of the cams weren't given and compared to factory specs. Any illustration or pics (IMHO) should be accompanied by micrometer readings and some documentation, rather than just posting and making claims.

I don't know how tough this engine is on oil, but I have used either Amsoil or Mobil 1 in my '92 Burb (5.7 L V8) in the past and it still had lacquer and varnish in the heads (at 263,000 miles), which were recently removed by Neutra and LC flushes.

[ January 03, 2003, 11:37 AM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
M1 being the synthetic that it is and costing $5.49 here at the local Autozone it better be good stuff
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Fake or no fake, those pics are really nice. I'm convined to stop using Amsoil too. If Amsoil shares similar formuation as M1 does with there SuperSyn, then what's the point of the wait for oil that costs about $.50 more?????? Now I only heard that the SuperSyn and the orginal Amsoil synthetic oils are similar. That and the XL lines are similar in formualtions. But I am going to switch over to M1 5w30 with Supersyn being winter time. Prolly a smart thing to get an oil analysis kit for my Ranger. I'm currently running Amsoil 5w30 original synthetic motor oil. If it's true that Amsoil and M1 are similar I'm going with M1. I mean at $5.49 M1 must be some pretty good stuff. JMO on this matter.

AR
 
Airborne,

If you can get Mobil 0w30, consider getting that instead of 5w30 for winter driving. It might be an all around better formulation than 5w30, but that's just my gut feel based upon looking at specs.
 
Well, it's really impossible to know if these are real or not. I can't say I don't have my doubts. This guy was very quick to knock cleaners such as AutoRx. He thinks $25 spent on a cleaner is a waste. I say, if it can't hurt the engine, why not try it? And if $25 breaks the bank, get another job.
wink.gif
 
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