Pics of sludged up Toyota 1MZ-FE

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is that ur accord...if i look inside it its kinda reddish....and now tha tim looking at urs i may think its time for a cleaning...iono maybe its the color thats blowing me off but it in no way looks like the engine that used oil always came out with no gloopy stuff..but i got 150k+ miles on it. humm..
That ain't sludge. My first car (138 OHV 6 cyl "can't remember when it was serviced" according to the guy that I bought it off) was reading empty on the dipstick, and went full with 1/2 litre added. Pulled the rocker cover off, and scraped a litre and a half of sludge out of it. Poured kerosine into it and idled for 5 minutes, and it drained like gear oil. Four oil changes of cheap supermarket oil (100 miles between changes) and it slowed down to a litre per 100 miles. Later switched to XLD and STP, and the oil consumption was from Full to Low on the dipstick per 3000 miles. And it still didn't look as good as the "sludged" engine in the pics.
No. Just some pics I found. Funny thing is, the sludged motor is the one in running condition while the 'clean' one is busted.
The real test: Would Auto-Rx bring the top engine to the same condition of the bottom one after 2 cycles???
OK, let me clarify: the sludged engine did not "see synthetic every 3500 miles or less," right? It's the nice, clean one at the bottom, I gather. What history did the sludged engine have, and what year/model was it from, if you know? [ January 03, 2003, 10:36 AM: Message edited by: Pete ]
I have seen sludge and this does not appear to be sludge on the top engine. The top engine has less lighting than the bottom one, which makes it difficult to see. I too suspect it's the bottom one that ran the synthetic oil. What oils were run in both and for how long? In the dirty engine, the upper part of the engine appears to have a heavy lacquer coating, rather than sludge. Edit: It would be interesting to see the oil pan and the bottom part of the engine. The oil pan might show some sludge. Neutra or Lube Control, and then Auto-RX should clean it up. [ January 03, 2003, 11:24 AM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
posted January 03, 2003 02:12 AM "No. Just some pics I found. Funny thing is, the sludged motor is the one in running condition while the 'clean' one is busted." Maybe we put too much store in having "clean" engines. After all, it's not the appearance that matters, its the amount of wear on the critical parts. If a little varnish has formed in undrained areas, so what? It will stay in place and is harmless. I'll admit this dosen't apply to grossly sludged and poorly maintained engines, where the sludge might come loose and plug up an oil supply somewhere......
Well, these pics confirm one thing: the double overhead cams on these Toyota engines are not "gear driven." The exhaust cam is belt driven and the intake cam is gear driven off the exhaust cam.
MolaKule, You stated that Neutra (I have on hand) or Lube Control, then Auto RX (I have on hand) should clean up that dirty engine. What process do you prescribe for this? How would you go about it? Thank you. krholm
This regime has worked for me. In a warm garage: Don rubber gloves and protective eyewear and take a gallon of Neutra (full strength) and soak the heads for at least four hours. I do this by placing the head(s) in a tub or large container and slowly pour the Neutra over the galleys, etc, if head is off. Retrieve the runnoff that went into the tub or sump and continue pouring this over the head. Also remove the sparkplugs and pour 4 oz. of Neutra per cylinder into the sparkplug holes (You may have to rotate crank so all cylinders get the full 4 oz). After one hour, slowly rotate the crankshaft (preferably by hand) about one full revolution. Let gravity flow take the Neutra past the piston rings until it is in the sump. Verify by flashlight or borescope. The next day, do the same procedure with Lube Control (full strength). Make sure all fluids have drained past the rings, because we don't want hydrolock on startup (this is very important). On the third day, reassemble engine and put into the engine 5W30 dino oil with 16 oz. of Lube Control and new SuperTech or other filter. Replace sparkplugs and pull or coast vehicle ouside. Make sure flame arrestor/air cleaner is on carb or TBI. Edit: Crank engine until it fires and make sure you have oil pressure at idle before running at fast idle!!! Run for at least 20 minutes at fast idle or until engine heats up to normal temp. Drain oil and replace with pet oil and filter and run with occasional maintenance dose of Auto-RX, Neutra, or Lube Control. [ January 03, 2003, 11:48 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
This toyota v-6 engine had less than 15,000 miles on it. This is sludged. what you were looking at might have been the start of sludge but definatly not there by no means. Also, the clean engine, looks like it was cleaned as one tell tale sign is the exterior of the motor was spotless as well. I'd be hard pressed to state that the second engine was run on synth or dino with less than 3k drain intervals as I have seen both look the same......  - And there was no issue as to what drove the gears in the cam area but as you can see, only one cam was driven by the belt and the other cam was driven by the first cam, which is where the oil was being sheared, whipped, beat to death or what every ya wanna call it. [ January 03, 2003, 11:19 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
is there any way i can tell there is sludge in my engine?? if i look in the crank case i see dark brown hehehe...but if i drain it will be fine...but my dads car had sludge acuse we didnt change it for like 2 years but inside it looks worried my accord has sludge for that it is 13 years old...we used to do 10k oil drains until about 2 years ago when i started taking the car. i use 10w30...
Originally posted by BOBISTHEOILGUY: And there was no issue as to what drove the gears in the cam area but as you can see, only one cam was driven by the belt and the other cam was driven by the first cam, which is where the oil was being sheared, whipped, beat to death or what every ya wanna call it.
Bob, Why is it that A/Ts dont have this problem? They have plenty of gears, & the dexron III doesnt seem to get sheared, whipped or beat to death, but instead is good for >50k miles. Just curious.
several things that come to mind.. One, a lot of the auto trannies come with torque converters that hold at least 12qts of oil+whats in the pan. The amount of oil alone will negate any possiblity of shearing to that point of sludging up. But in a toyota engine, the sump capacity is 5qts, and the same oil would be sheared more frequently. Some of these engines have a 7qt capacity and because of this, not one of them have been brought in for sludge. Same motor, same pcv, and same everything except engien is mounted in a wider open area, allowing for better air flow around the engine, and the higher capacity of oil. Another thing on trannies, There is no induced blowby unlike an engine produces, so you don't have as much acid build up trying to oxidize the oil. I'm also trying to remember but I don't think there is all that much in the way of gears in an automatic. Theres the valve body, which shifts the fluid around creating the shifting, then theres the clutch pak, that doesn't effect it as a gear would, the torque converter has vanes in it, although there is an oil pump which would be simular to an engine oil pump.. So, question I would wonder about, is the amount of gearing in an automatic trannie = to or less than a normal engine? I don't think you have near the gear area in an automatic thus less shearing of the oil and then factor in the quanity of oil used - the acids from blowby.
Your theory on the quantity of fluid makes lots of sense. My 4 cyl Camry has a separate differential which holds only 1.6L of dexron III, after 50,000km of use, there was a lot of sludge on the magnetic drain plug:  -
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