Pick my next oil change... Ranger w/ 3.0 Vulcan

Messages
475
Location
Gainesville, FL
I’m coming up on my 10k interval and will be there by the end of the week. I’m going to use a FRAM Ultra and leave the filter in place for two oil changes to cut down on dumping oil on the starter (way to go, Ford). Plus it’s just a pain to reach in there.

Even with the new F-150 I’ll still be driving the Ranger a lot, likely over 20-25k a year.

So my question is, do I run my regular bulk synthetic to 10k and leave the filter on for 20k, OR do I run the M1 EP HM 5W-30 I bought on sale months ago, and run both the oil and filter for 20k? Consumes (leaks) about a quart every 5k and has been consistently so for years. Which means in a 20k interval I will add three quarts and then change.

Edit~ Option 3: 10k with CarQuest 10W-30 HM syn, as opposed to the Harvest King 10W-30 syn I’ve been using. Harvest King is not a high mileage blend. May help slow the various leaks.

I know it makes no difference as far as the engine is concerned. Just entertainment for me.
 
Messages
2,324
Location
Seattle-ish, WA
Of the options, I'd be tempted to:

1) Ultra + M1 EP. With that much make-up oil, you can replenish it. When you do replenish it, M1 10w-30 EP when you buy more. and that in the future. Those kinds of numbers (miles per year), presumably being highway, are not hard on the oil or engine. If you have doubts, do a UOA at 10k before going further.

I also have a vehicle with a messy, difficult filter change the Ultra has been a real joy to use the last several years.
 
Messages
2,505
Location
Americus, GA
I had 1991 Ranger with the 3.0. I always used Valvoline FS or NAPA FS with a FL-400s or NAPA Gold 1516. So, Valvoline High Mileage 5W30 or 10W30 would be my pick. Back then, that particular truck did not like FRAM oil filters. Why? I have no idea. But, the oil pressure gauge would go crazy at idle. I never had the crazy oil pressure with the WIX/NAPA Gold or Motorcraft. I’m not a fan of leaving the oil filter on through two changes. But, that’s just me.
 

getawheel

Thread starter
Messages
475
Location
Gainesville, FL
I had 1991 Ranger with the 3.0. I always used Valvoline FS or NAPA FS with a FL-400s or NAPA Gold 1516. So, Valvoline High Mileage 5W30 or 10W30 would be my pick. Back then, that particular truck did not like FRAM oil filters. Why? I have no idea. But, the oil pressure gauge would go crazy at idle. I never had the crazy oil pressure with the WIX/NAPA Gold or Motorcraft. I’m not a fan of leaving the oil filter on through two changes. But, that’s just me.
I think this has something to do with the oil pressure gauge, which is more of an on/off switch. I think it is triggered at 7 psi. Maybe the FRAM had a bit more restriction of some sort and that tripped it over the edge.
 

getawheel

Thread starter
Messages
475
Location
Gainesville, FL
My vote is save your engine in the long term and shorten it to 5,000 with any of the ones you listed.
I like your thinking and in many cases that’s the way to go.

For this one, it’s mostly highway miles, I’ve done 10k in just over four months. I’ve done 7.5–10k OCIs since new and no issues now with 270k on it. UOA data backs it up as well.

In a car that’s beat around town or not driven much? 5k/1 year with synthetic all the way.
 
Messages
7,104
Location
Roanoke Virginia
I like your thinking and in many cases that’s the way to go.

For this one, it’s mostly highway miles, I’ve done 10k in just over four months. I’ve done 7.5–10k OCIs since new and no issues now with 270k on it. UOA data backs it up as well.

In a car that’s beat around town or not driven much? 5k/1 year with synthetic all the way.
You are braver than I am that’s for sure I wouldn’t do it with bulk oil especially some of those shady companies I’ve seen deliver it lol. But glad we agree on the other stuff.
 
Messages
2,505
Location
Americus, GA
I think this has something to do with the oil pressure gauge, which is more of an on/off switch. I think it is triggered at 7 psi. Maybe the FRAM had a bit more restriction of some sort and that tripped it over the edge.
I don’t know what caused it. It would bounce up and down. I swapped out the filter to a FL-400s and no more problems. No problems with the NAPA Gold 1516 either. This was when FRAM was Allied Signal.
 

I_4

Messages
98
Location
Southeast MA
Supertech syn 5w-30. That is what I use in my Vulcan. Every 5k miles, twice a year for me. I use the K&N oil filter with the nut end to make it easy. The filter gets changed once a year, two oil changes. I do not overthink the oil choice for the Vulcan.
 
Messages
557
Location
Canada
My 3.0 also seems to consume the same amount of oil for years. No visible leaks underneath, so I'm assuming it's burning through the piston rings.

I'm at 250,000 kms, always changed every 10,000 kms and no problems yet with the starter motor. It really is a stupid design, although I don't think I've ever heard of anyone having a starter fail direct as a result of getting bathed with oil. I don't believe there's any exposed ports on the starter.
 
Messages
2,363
Location
South Carolina
It really is a stupid design, although I don't think I've ever heard of anyone having a starter fail direct as a result of getting bathed with oil.
Mine did. Took it off and it was bathed in oil which collected road gunk. Replaced the starter but kept the old one. Someday when I'm bored I'll take it apart and clean it out. Probably will work like new.
 
Messages
557
Location
Canada
Mine did. Took it off and it was bathed in oil which collected road gunk. Replaced the starter but kept the old one. Someday when I'm bored I'll take it apart and clean it out. Probably will work like new.

Interesting, would you know what exactly failed in the starter? Usually the contacts go bad which would just be normal wear and tear. On my Ranger I'm still on the original starter but have had to replace the alternator way before. I typically try to be careful and shield the starter a bit when doing oil changes.
 
Messages
262
Location
STL, MO
There are tools available (such as the oil udder advertised on this site) that will help reduce the oil spilt on the starter.

My old Vulcan powered Taurus lost it's starter too, likely due to the spilt oil, IMO.
 
Messages
2,363
Location
South Carolina
Interesting, would you know what exactly failed in the starter? Usually the contacts go bad which would just be normal wear and tear. On my Ranger I'm still on the original starter but have had to replace the alternator way before. I typically try to be careful and shield the starter a bit when doing oil changes.
Not until I take it apart.
 
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