PHX, AZ summer oil...what to do

[JAC43]

Gentlemen:

Two questions:

I have been looking at data sheets for Amsoil and Mobil 1 in various weights. For the most part it seems like Amsoil is slightly "thicker" comparing viscosity at 40°C and 100°C between comparably labeled oils. Does this mean that an oil with higher numbers at certain measured temperatures provides a better (better being more protection) film between moving parts?

The manual to my car states that I may use either a 5W-30 or 5W-40 synthetic oil. Summer is on its way, and my car is due for another oil change. I have used M1 0W-40 before, but my mileage was consistently 1.5-2 MPG less than with M1 5W-30. Looking at Amsoil 10W-30 and using its viscosity at 40°C and 100°C, it seems to bridge the gap between Mobil 1 5W-30 and Mobil 1 0W-40. Gasoline is getting rather expensive here ($2.53/gallon for 91 octane today) so mileage is important to me, but so is the longevity of my car!. All you oil experts out there - do you believe Amsoil 10W-30 will adequately protect my engine during 110° stop and go commutes or would you rather run the Mobil 1 0W-40?

Thanks in advance!

JAC

 

[DR Racing]

Use this 10w-30/30 no VI improvers added great for high temp use. Dan

 

[High Plains Drifter]

What kind of car?

 

[Geoff]

As a data point, the owner's manual for my Land Rover (2004) allows for -30 weights up to 86F only. 40 weights good to 122F.

There was a guy that posted an oil report on a Volvo from Phoenix. His wear numbers were all single digits using Mobil 1 15w-50.

 

[bulwnkl]

I used to live in Phoenix, and then in Yuma. It's pretty warm there in the summer

My car at that time did not require a synthetic, nor an xW40. I just used the 10W30 and it seemed to work fine. I had to drive it around from business to business and some homes during the day for work. After having been there a while, I thought I saw merit in using an SAE 30, SAE 40, or a 15W40.

If you need a 5W30 or 5W40 synthetic and seek maximum protection, I would use the 5W40 in southern-Arizona summers. Stop-and-go usage is not as hard on the oil thermally as freeway driving, so in all likelyhood a 5W30 would suffice, but I'd still choose a 5W40.

Between Amsoil and M1... I usually prefer M1. I have experienced more burnoff from Amsoil vs. M1 in a couple of vehicles, and some Amsoil grades thicken too much to suit me (not in my cars, in the UOAs here and elsewhere). My true preference is RedLine, but that wasn't one you asked about.

 

[bbobynski]

Since your owners manual recommends the 5W30 synthetic why would you run something else...??? Do you think that you or anyone on the forum or the internet knows more about what your engine requires than the manufacturer...???.....LOL

Use the 5W30 Mobil 1. Regardless of who makes your car they test it in the desert southwest and it is designed and validated for the heat. It is no secret to anyone that it gets hot in Phoenix in the summer time. Drive over to Death Valley one day in August and you can find ALL the autocompanies (domestic, oriental and European) staying at the Furnace Creek Rance motel and testing on the grades out of Death Valley. There is really no need to try and second guess their recommendations.

 

[Bio-T]

quote:

---

Originally posted by bbobynski:
Do you think that you or anyone on the forum or the internet knows more about what your engine requires than the manufacturer...???.....LOL

---

I trusted the manufacturer when I bought a V-8, then again with HT-4100. Then I really trusted them with my transmissions on my GM trucks. Lets see, transmission overheats and pours out the dipstick, so the wisdom at GM had a fix, put a locking plug on the fill tube and fill with one quart less fluid. Now the fix is in, guess what, when it overheats now it pours the fluid on the catalytic converter from the vent. What is the fix from GM now? Oh turn the vent away from the converter. Don't ever fix the transmission, (under warranty) just band aid it.

I trust the manufacturers recommendations like I trust my dog not to bark at the UPS man.

In fact your arrogant condescending attitude toward this board and other members doesn't fly.

[ April 22, 2005, 11:36 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]

 

[JAC43]

Gentlemen:

Thank you for your responses thus far.

quote:

---

Since your owners manual recommends the 5W30 synthetic why would you run something else...??? Do you think that you or anyone on the forum or the internet knows more about what your engine requires than the manufacturer...???.....LOL

---

In response to this post... like I said in my original post the manual for the vehicle suggests a range of oils to use, not just 5W-30. However I neglected to say that no temperature range was given for what oil in the manual. As well, I am comparing two different oils from two different manufacturers and I am interested in feedback from those who have possibly used the motor oils I am torn between or who have advice as to what to use in the high temperature region where I live. I am not trying to deviate from what the manufacturer specified...I am comparing oils to each other based on empirical data (viscosities at 40°C and 100°C) I gathered from data sheets on manufacturer websites and comparing that to viscosity measurements for a 5W-30 or 5W-40. As you all are aware sometimes these measurements overlap (case in point Amsoil 5W-30 measures 64.3 cSt @ 40°C and M1 10W-30 measures 62 cSt @ 40°C). Am I correct to surmise that Amsoil 5W-30 at 9:00 in the morning in Phoenix in July is actually more difficult for the engine to pump than M1 10W-30? If so, then even though the manual specified a 5W-30 or 5W-40 the 10W-30 which measures right in between the two recommended viscosities allows me to use an oil with less VI in it, which according to nearly everybody is a positive. I just want to know if my logic is correct, and if it isn't will someone please correct me?

 

[Pablo]

I would use Amsoil 5W-40 or 15W-30, but that's just me.

 

[1911]

quote:

---

Originally posted by bbobynski:
Since your owners manual recommends the 5W30 synthetic why would you run something else...??? Do you think that you or anyone on the forum or the internet knows more about what your engine requires than the manufacturer...???.....LOL

Use the 5W30 Mobil 1. Regardless of who makes your car they test it in the desert southwest and it is designed and validated for the heat. It is no secret to anyone that it gets hot in Phoenix in the summer time. Drive over to Death Valley one day in August and you can find ALL the autocompanies (domestic, oriental and European) staying at the Furnace Creek Rance motel and testing on the grades out of Death Valley. There is really no need to try and second guess their recommendations.

---

Thanks Bbobynski but your statement makes no sense at all when you consider that for my Mazda, they specify 15W-40 for the Australians and their summer but 5W-20 for the guy in Phoenix. Now which oil is the highly tested and certified one in this case? There must be more to it than what you say here at least for many manufacturers. Maybe GM is a little different in philosophy mate?

 

[bulwnkl]

quote:

---

Originally posted by bbobynski:
Drive over to Death Valley one day in August and you can find ALL the autocompanies (domestic, oriental and European) staying at the Furnace Creek Rance motel and testing on the grades out of Death Valley.

---

Am I mistaken in my recollection that the giant proving grounds out of the southeastern Phoenix suburbs is GM's? Also, you might want to pass along the fact that it's hotter in southern Arizona in June and early July than August.

 

[Mamala Bay]

JAC43,

quote:

---

As you all are aware sometimes these measurements overlap (case in point Amsoil 5W-30 measures 64.3 cSt @ 40°C and M1 10W-30 measures 62 cSt @ 40°C). Am I correct to surmise that Amsoil 5W-30 at 9:00 in the morning in Phoenix in July is actually more difficult for the engine to pump than M1 10W-30?

---

With that high temp in Phoenix I don't think your engine will tell the difference.

 

[wulimaster]

I ran Amsoil ATM 10w30 from 1993 until 2004 in my 92 toyota before switching over to the 0w30 series 2000. It ran real well and kept the engine clean. I think the 0w30 will keep it cleaner though. I am running the 5w30 series 3000 in my diesel and will probably just use the series 3000 for both vehicle when I switch it out. I am running a bypass in the gas pickup and will add a double bypass to the powerstroke one of these days.

For what it is worth, I ran 25k intervals with the Toyota and bypass.

 

[Flimflam]

quote:

---

Originally posted by JAC43:
Gentlemen:

Two questions:

I have been looking at data sheets for Amsoil and Mobil 1 in various weights. For the most part it seems like Amsoil is slightly "thicker" comparing viscosity at 40°C and 100°C between comparably labeled oils. Does this mean that an oil with higher numbers at certain measured temperatures provides a better (better being more protection) film between moving parts?

The manual to my car states that I may use either a 5W-30 or 5W-40 synthetic oil. Summer is on its way, and my car is due for another oil change. I have used M1 0W-40 before, but my mileage was consistently 1.5-2 MPG less than with M1 5W-30. Looking at Amsoil 10W-30 and using its viscosity at 40°C and 100°C, it seems to bridge the gap between Mobil 1 5W-30 and Mobil 1 0W-40. Gasoline is getting rather expensive here ($2.53/gallon for 91 octane today) so mileage is important to me, but so is the longevity of my car!. All you oil experts out there - do you believe Amsoil 10W-30 will adequately protect my engine during 110° stop and go commutes or would you rather run the Mobil 1 0W-40?

Thanks in advance!

JAC

---

Use regular dino oil, my Hot friend. Castrol HD-30. That is what I use whenever the going gets Tough.

 

[LVHospiceRN]

quote:

---

Originally posted by bbobynski:
Since your owners manual recommends the 5W30 synthetic why would you run something else...??? Do you think that you or anyone on the forum or the internet knows more about what your engine requires than the manufacturer...???.....LOL

---

Frequently what the manufacture recommnends isnt neccesarily the best for that particular application.

For example, motorcycles. harley (no capitalization intended) recommends running THEIR synthetic oil in the engine, transmission, and primary chain. This is for ease of maint. or convenience, NOT the best lube for each of the three applications.

While its probably true the manufacture KNOWS what is best for the engine they developed, marketing can play a huge role in what is RECOMMENDED. The reason companies exist is to make money, if no one buys the product, no matter how good the product, the company folds....

Just IMHO
darrell
sin city