pennzoil vs. castrol gtx ?

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JHZR2

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Hi,

Ive seen some reference that pennzoil went from a group II+ to a group II with some II+ mixed in. As far as I know, GTX is II+, correct?

Pennzoil has historically had a really good formulation, and castrol wasnt far behind. Now Im not so sure.

Can anyone give me a rundown of the good and bad of castrol gtx vs pennzoil 5w-30?

Many thanks,

JMH
 
I don't have any details, I just know I used GTX 10W30 for years and it worked quite well.
Lately though, I've been using Chevron, which I think is 'better'...and cheaper.
 
Pennzoil vs GTX

Boron or no Boron

Boron is expensive

Boron does more than one function

Pennzoil uses Boron

Motorbike likes oils using Boron

In oils with lower phos like GF-4 Borons helps

Does Boron itself make or break an oil ? Nope .
 
i my self would like to know wich oil its best with people here in this forums. i have a 1998 f150 4.6 that calls for 5w20 (5w30) and a 1997 grand cherokee 4.0 that calls for 10w30.i would like to buy oil by the case so i can do both cars oil changes at the same time with the same oil grade what would you people recomend 5w30 or 10w30? my next question is wich is better pennzoil or castrol gtx (regular dino).Both castrol and pennzoil are about the same price around here,i hear castrol has more moly and no boron and that penz has lots of boron so go figure. any comments please..... tks
 
I can't answer the question about Pennzoil and Castrol GTX.

aztec12, you may want to start a new thread with your question. If you are just going to use one type of oil for both vehicles then I suggest you use any name brand 5W-30 ILSAC GF-4 motor oil in both your vehicles. 5W-30 conventional oils have improved greatly over the years and should provide good protection for both vehicles.
 
I have been reading this forum quite a bit lately and this is actually my first post. thanks for all the great information put on this forum.

I have a 2004 Honda Civic that currently has 10,000 miles on it. I changed the factory fill at 4,000 miles and put in Pennzoil 5W20 dino oil with a ToughGard Fram filter. The car seemed to run very sluggish compared to the factory fill and also noticed the temperature gauge reading dead center on the cluster (very unusual). I decided to try Castrol GTX dino oil with a Fram ToughGard filter at 8,000 miles and noticed a drastic improvement with my Civic. Not only does the car have more power but believe it or not my temperature gauge on the cluster has dropped 2 bars and is running much cooler now. The difference between the two oils in my opinion is like day and night. I will be sticking with Castol GTX Dino at 4,000 mile intervals from now on.
 
quote:

I have a 2004 Honda Civic that currently has 10,000 miles on it. I changed the factory fill at 4,000 miles and put in Pennzoil 5W20 dino oil with a ToughGard Fram filter. The car seemed to run very sluggish compared to the factory fill and also noticed the temperature gauge reading dead center on the cluster (very unusual).

The only thing that I can think of that could explain what you have described is if Pennzoil had somehow put the wrong labels on the oil that you purchased. Perhaps it was 10W-30, 10W-40 or even thicker.

welcome.gif
 
You may be right about the Pennzoil oil I purchased. It was bought at Wal-Mart in a 5-gallon container. The container was sealed and seemed thin like a 5W20 viscosity though.
 
Right now with 10,000 miles and Castrol GTX Dino 5W20 oil my temperature gauge stays comsistently two lines below half-way mark. It is a drastic change over the Pennzoil oil 5W20 that was in my Civic.
 
Did the label on the front of that 5-gallon pail say 5W20. If so, did it look like a factory printed label, or something somebody just stuck on there. The only 5-gallon pails that I have ever seen in Wal-Mart was our 15W40. There is just no way your car would run hotter water temps with the Pennzoil 5W20 vs the Castrol 5W20.
 
Thanks for all your help with this situation. Here in Florida they sell a 5-gallon jug of 5W20 Pennzoil and yes it was a factory sticker. Maybe I will get eager and give the Pennzoil another chance.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Santo Fontana:
Most factory coolant temp gauges read dead center as long as the temp is within a certain operating range.

I have a ScanGauge attached to my 1996 Ford Contour and the temperature reading when the engine is fullly warmed up in stop and go traffic varies from 195 to 212F (at 212F the engine cooling fan comes on, it shuts off at 195F).
 
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