Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20, 5,732miles, '08 Mazda CX-9

[SavagePatch]

This OCI was sponsored by Pennzoil. A few years back they gave some members here free oil along with free oil analysis kits. I received PUP 5w20. Keeping up with my end of the bargain here's my UOA from that. The results exceeded my expectations. Now that PUP is more readily available then it was back then and more reasonably priced I will be running it.

This oil was ran over the winter months. Lots of snow and short half mile cold runs dropping off and picking up kids for school mixed with lots of longer steep highway runs through the mountain grades.

I replaced the iridium spark plugs at 110k miles. They looked to be in fine shape and the gaps were within spec. Glad I don't have to change them again for another 100k miles since the transverse engine made it a pain.


I try to stick to 5k mile OCI's and have used these products every OCI since 75k miles:
Fram Ultra oil filters
AEM DryFlow air filter
Gumout All-In-One fuel system cleaner

@Genna Fischer - I'd gladly do a run of the new Rotella T6 15w40 in my 2015 Ram 1500 Ecodiesel 3.0L

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

For your described usage, the report looks pretty good. However, as long as you have some highway driving to burn off any fuel, I personally would get a TBN on your next report and then use that info to run it out longer. There's no real reason with a good report like this that you shouldn't be able to go 7.5k or even longer if the numbers keep trending like this with the additional mileage. Thanks for the report!

 

[dnewton3]

Wear rates will never be an issue in that engine. The average wear rate for Fe is 2.0pppm / 1k miles, so at 5.7k miles you'd expect to see anywhere from 9-13 ppm for the first stdev node. Same goes for the Al, Cu and Pb. All the wear metals are totally "normal" here. What caused the sodium bump? Additive or lube with high Na? The history of higher Cu and Pb in that engine are interesting, but seems to have come back down. Because the Cu predated the spike in Pb, I'd say you had a large particle attack a bearing somewhere, but it's over with now; these are referred to as "particle streaks". This is not uncommon in any engine, and generally do not affect overall engine longevity.

I would think you're aware, but if not, keep an eye on the coolant level, and for coolant in the lube. This is the engine series that has the internal water pump. The pump seal can fail and either leak externally via the weep hole, or internally into the sump pan. Expensive replacement either way. But coolant in the lube is a big potential no-no, as we all know. Absolutely run out your OCIs longer; the wear rates will drop with the longer use. However, that does not mean to monitor the lube less. You may want to continue the UOAs every 5k miles; not for wear, but for traces (hints) of lube indicating pump failure. If not for the water pump issue, these engines would be almost a given to go 500k miles; they wear that well and generally have no other known problems. The real problem can be that if the seal fails and leak internally into the engine, then your UOA plan may or may not catch it soon enough, depending upon when the seal fails relative to the UOA cycle. It is good to watch the coolant bottle closely and don't ignore small volume losses that have no external leak symptoms. The visual clues and UOAs are your only hope to catch the pump prior to major engine damage.

Also, I'd say save yourself some money and quit using the Ultra if 5-6k miles is your planned OFCI. Total waste of money there. Any decent filter can handle that distance. If you can stomach the orange can, that is fine. If not, then the TG, or a Wix, etc. In fact, you can save big money by just using dino lube and a "normal" filter. (I realize this OCI of PP was free; didn't cost you a dime). This engine series can easily sustain dino lube and 10k mile OCIs. And whereas you might say it's "cheap insurance" to use premium products, that's a foolish response rooted in mythology and not facts. And you're going to need every last penny when it comes to replacing that water pump; it's often quoted around $1300-$1500 at most places because it's a 10 hour job for experienced persons, plus all the parts.

 

[SavagePatch]

Thank you for the heads up. I have noticed after 100k miles that I need to top up the coolant to the cold fill line with a few ounces now over a 5k OCI. It never falls to the fill line though.

Besides UOA's, this one shows no coolant, is there anything preventative I can do? High Mileage oils with Seal Conditioners?

I've done a few coolant drain and fills with FL-22 and then one with Zerex Asian Blue this last time.


Also, could the sodium bump be from RP HPS 5w20?

*I POSTED RIGHT AFTER YOU EDITED. YOU ANSWERED MY QUESTIONS. THANKS!