Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40 vs Amsoil 0w40 SS (Blackstone UOA)

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Feb 16, 2016
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Blackstone Labs oil analysis sample results for my 2019 Dodge Charger 392. There are two oil sample tests being posted.

The first sample is of the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40 (SRT label) run with 3500 miles. This has been the factory fill since purchasing the car new 2/15/19.

Filter used for both oil sample results is: (SRT filter) 5038041AA
*Been using this brand/model oil filter since my first oil change.

I haven't seen any other UOA tests comparing both Amsoil 0w40 and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40, hopefully this will provide some insight for anyone curious about either brand for their Dodge Charger/Challenger with the 392 or Hellcat engine variants.

PENNZOIL ULTRA PLATINUM 0w40 (SRT) 3500 miles on sample. This sample would have been from my 3rd oil change since owning the vehicle.
Pennzoil 0w40 SRT Blackstone 1st test sample.jpg



Below is the Amsoil 0w40 Signature Series (12/8/20) vs Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40 (5/27/20 same as above)
*Note, the mileage on the Amsoil sample is incorrect due to my typo error when submitting the sample. The Amsoil sample actually has 2700 miles, NOT 3500. This sample data would be of my 4th oil change since owning the car. So the Amsoil had 2700 miles on its sample, vs Pennzoil having 3500 miles.


AMSOIL 0w40 SS (left column) vs Unit Averages (center column) vs Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40 (right column)

Charger 392 AMSOIL 0w40 SS vs Pennzoil 0w40 SRT 1.jpg



As of this posting, my Charger is currently using Amsoil 0w40 SS, with SRT oil filter. I'm at 2000 miles, so I have a little ways to go before sending this engine oil sample off to blackstone for a second test of the Amsoil. The Charger just turned over at 15,000 miles. So once I submit this Amsoil sample, it will dictate if I continue using the Amsoil, or switch back to Pennzoil.

Have been considering trying Redline 0w40, or Schaeffers 0w40.


Lastly, I noticed the Moly content between both the Amsoil and Pennzoil are near identical to averages.

Could someone explain to me the different amounts of the Boron and Calcium contents.

As well as what base stocks are used for the Pennzoil and Amsoil? Isn't the Pennzoil considered a Group III as well?
 
In before the Amsoil (Amway?) salesmen come in and tell you to leave it in there for 25k miles!

In all seriousness, the Pennzoil looks better. I have had one run of PUP 0w20 in my Pentastar and it looked pretty darned good, too. Not saying the Amsoil doesn't, and yes, I know, this is one sample, and maybe you ran it harder since it has a few more miles on it. But the Pennzoil still clearly looks better.

It took me a lot longer to get the wear materials down from break-in in my Pentastar than in that Charger. Nice!
 
Your engine is still breaking in, low miles and high copper are the tip off. I'd wait until it had at least 20 k miles on it, [some people say even longer] and then do two runs of each oil, sampling on the second run to get a fair representation. Even then I doubt you'll be able to determine which oil is better.
 
real synthetics costing over TWICE as much $$$ should be better!! IMO you DONT need an 0W in your location + for cheep use a 10W40 or even a 15W 40 as the lower # thinner oils deteriorate faster as you seen unless the blend uses mostly REAL synthetics which you pay $$$ for! better yes BUT unless money is not an issue its not needed especially with shorter changes + normal use!!
 
Boron.... https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/boron-additives.57848/#post-729116
Calcium... to reduce LSPI, some oils have lower calcium and use magnesium.

Insolubles is trace and then .2 with same filtering level. Too me, either more fuel burned with the 2nd run than 1st, or more time on it. Or filtering inconsistency and not worth bothering with the SRT(had to say it).

Get an engine timer or log gallons of fuel used, since mileage means little.

Mobil1 FS and ESP, Dexos, Castrol, Schaeffers, RoyalPurple, Driven, Rotella, Redline, Valvoline, and.... are all worth a try. I'd run them all, at least twice, and then go back to Amsoil and Pennzoil to see if the data trends toward a certain brand. I'd wager you wouldn't see a much of a difference among them all. Really can't draw a conclusion on a single run of oil, especially on an engine that is still breaking in.

Another option is to stick with the Pennzoil 0w40, and alternate among the available filters. This is when you stick with Pennzoil and run particle counts with the available filters every 3500. You might find out the SRT filter is mildly overhyped.

With the typical 0w40 HTHS and your oil change interval, can assume a very long engine life.

If the 0w40's don't show improvements, depending on driving style, I would thumb nose at Mopar and step up to a higher HTHS oil, 5w40 or even 10w40. And, they do make full synthetic 15w40 too.
 
Your engine is still breaking in, low miles and high copper are the tip off. I'd wait until it had at least 20 k miles on it, [some people say even longer] and then do two runs of each oil, sampling on the second run to get a fair representation. Even then I doubt you'll be able to determine which oil is better.
Yes. And not enough mileage on either oil to draw any conclusions.
 
Appreciate the feedback, I figured this was a good starting point to provide a baseline, not only for myself, but for those who are interested here.

As far as the service intervals go, I don't usually change this frequently, it just so happened to be the time frame I decided to do the testing, as well as the mileage.

Dodge actually wants the 392/Hellcat guys to do change intervals at 6 months or 6000 miles whichever happens first. I'll continue to use the "SRT" filter for consistency.

I figured that there was still some residual break-in wear within the last two samples.

I have about 3k more miles to go on this current Amsoil 0w40 before I change it out. I'll atleast try and make an effort to get it closer to the service drain interval and have a second sample of Amsoil.

I eventually would like to use Redline 5w40, maybe the 10w40 due to living in northwest Florida.
 
The way you are babying this ride just use an approved oil and enjoy.
Forget the switching and UOA's.

Don't mistake doting over VOA's and such as any kind of anxiety. Rather it is part of the fun of taking care of that baby. I do the same thing with my Jeep, but then run the heck out of it on trails, mud, rocks, and sand. But I like knowing what's going on inside it both for fun and to ensure it is always 100% mission capable at top performance.

It's all part of the hobby, and it is a getaway from more serious stress and problems that life inevitably has.
 
Don't mistake doting over VOA's and such as any kind of anxiety. Rather it is part of the fun of taking care of that baby. I do the same thing with my Jeep, but then run the heck out of it on trails, mud, rocks, and sand. But I like knowing what's going on inside it both for fun and to ensure it is always 100% mission capable at top performance.

It's all part of the hobby, and it is a getaway from more serious stress and problems that life inevitably has.
As an old gent I get it but I no longer subscribe :)
 
Hard to make any conclusions - this is NOT a good baseline because it's still well within the break-in period where wear metals are far from steady-state. For instance, had the Amsoil SS showed markedly lower wear metals compared to the PPP you'd have no idea if it was the oil or simply wear in metals being washed out after the last oil change. The fact that it was the opposite case still doesn't mean the Amsoil didn't do as good of job. I'd wait until at least 20K before trying to get a "baseline".
 
So the Amsoil did worse on less miles and on an OCI after the PUP when wear metals should be gradually going down on a newer engine, do I have that correct?

I too find it strange that wear is higher when it should be trending downward... unless usage or conditions changed.
I usually go easier in my car during winter cause it takes much longer to warm up. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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