Pennzoil Platinum 0w20, 10,000 miles, '15 Ford C-Max, 66k

[oil_film_movies]

4 months 10k miles which is a miles number the iOLM hits about every time.
Fram Ultra over-sized oil fllter, XG3600 at 4.9" long (standard size is XG3614 at 3.3"), same diameter.
It's a hybrid, meaning the engine really only ran about 50% of the time. That 10k mile figure is about 5k road miles. (This is not a plug-in Energi version.)
2.0L normally aspirated Atkinson cycle (late intake valve closing) 12.3:1 geometric compression ratio (note Atkinson makes the expansion longer).
Port fuel injection, no DI here!
Direct Acting Mechanical Buckets (DAMB) in the valvetrain rubbing away on the cams ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Io9WKHf6_9o )
Warm weather, almost no short trips, a lot of hard acceleration under a combination of engine & electric motor power.
KV100 visc was up about 1 cSt (10%) over new PP, and its due to the "doping" of small doses of STP Oil Treatment HM 200 cSt KV100 swill and HyperLube ZRA polymer ester for the hot weather and a little extra seal conditioning halfway through the oil change.
Also put in 2oz of Berryman Engine Oil Extender halfway through the OCI for the anti-oxidants and extra moly.
Make-up oil was just the cup (total) of the additives above, and about a cup of PP to keep it at the full line; so 1/2 quart total stuff put in over 10k miles.
Iron was low, as I think the Universal Average is about 20 ppm Fe. GoldPlug magnetic drain plug may have taken some of the iron out, as there was a tiny amount of iron-fuzz on it.
Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 is a GroupIII+ based, dexos1 Gen2, SN GF-5 motor oil, cheap at walmart at $13/5-quarts with mail-in rebate from Shell.
Previous oil used was the same PP. In went more PP at the change.

 

[Dave1027]

That's a good uoa but you did not need to add any additives. PP by it's self would have gotten at least as good.

 

[AZjeff]

Interesting. Isn't there an oil that you trust to go 5k miles without the doping or is that something you just like doing? Seems like PP should be able to go a 5k interval in a N/A non GDI engine with no help?

 

[oil_film_movies]

The goal with the addtives is to counter the hot weather, hard-accleration driving with more viscosity and more wear resistance (STP heavy oil & HyperLube polymer esters). Note I didn't use much. Important to not go with too much.
The Berryman Engine Oil Extender added some anti-ox and moly in the middle of the oil change interval to help cut down on deposits as the engine nears the end of the 10k mile run.
It is hard to say if it did much. I think the more tech papers you read on small amounts of moly, anti-ox, polymer esters, along with viscosity-temperature effects on the Stribeck curve, the temptation is to nudge it in the right direction since it's easy to do.

 

[Zee09]

I change my "16 " C Max at 10k too with 5w20 Magnatec and it comes out like fresh oil.
The motor is spotless and the Ultra 3614 stays in for 20k. No additives but I'm not against
any. Just don't need them here.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by Zee09
I change my "16 " C Max at 10k too with 5w20 Magnatec and it comes out like fresh oil.
The motor is spotless and the Ultra 3614 stays in for 20k. No additives but I'm not against
any. Just don't need them here.
You open up the engine to look at the pistons? 'Spotless' would only be known if you did that.
I'd agree this engine is not too stressfull on oil, except for the 100 start-stops a day which it seems to survive well.
Actually, this engine may be a great use for M1 Annual Protection 0w20 and an oversized Fram Ultra for 20k road miles, straight through. No fuel dilution too, means its doable.

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Isn't that interesting thinking of some of the people on here that try to say Pennzoil isn't a 10k oil.

 

[Zee09]

Next time I'm in your neck of the woods we can open it up together......

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Isn't that interesting thinking of some of the people on here that try to say Pennzoil isn't a 10k oil.
Like Zee09 & I said above, with port fuel injection and it being a hybrid, meaning it doesn't actually run the engine but half the time or so, its not that bad on oil. Not a real stress test for PP. Of course you never know how black those pistons are getting. A UOA won't show that. You only know that if you suddenly start getting oil consumption from stuck rings, which too many people report with Priuses & other Toyota engines, among some other makes of course.

 

[Zee09]

I'm using up my stash. I just changed mine last week.
This time Kendall GT 1 Max only because I have a load of it.
Great car, plenty of power.
Only the seats kill my back. SE model.

I'm sure Amsoil SS would actually make It to 25 k in one of these.

 

[AZjeff]

OFM, thoughtful use of additives. One would think Ford would have the oil minder tuned for the actual engine operation conditions. If you think it only sees 50% active time maybe it's harder on oil than you think?

 

[Onetor]

Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
The goal with the addtives is to counter the hot weather, hard-accleration driving with more viscosity and more wear resistance (STP heavy oil & HyperLube polymer esters). Note I didn't use much. Important to not go with too much.
The Berryman Engine Oil Extender added some anti-ox and moly in the middle of the oil change interval to help cut down on deposits as the engine nears the end of the 10k mile run.
It is hard to say if it did much. I think the more tech papers you read on small amounts of moly, anti-ox, polymer esters, along with viscosity-temperature effects on the Stribeck curve, the temptation is to nudge it in the right direction since it's easy to do.


You shouldn't have to defend what you purchase and why. People are too quick to judge. I'm speaking in generalities.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Isn't that interesting thinking of some of the people on here that try to say Pennzoil isn't a 10k oil.


PFFFFFFFTTTTTT on them!!

I run Pennzoil "yellow bottle" 10K miles,

I scoff at the sissies that drain Pennz Plat at 10K.


BTW, those are some stellar low metals numbers - effectively no wear at all.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by AZjeff
OFM, thoughtful use of additives. One would think Ford would have the oil minder tuned for the actual engine operation conditions. If you think it only sees 50% active time maybe it's harder on oil than you think?
With those additives, just a booster shot at some point. If I switch to a Ravenol or M1 AP, maybe I'd not be so tempted to add something partway through.
As for the oil minder, the shop manual mentions that it does have an algorithm that can detect stress (temperature high, short trips, etc.) and may set off the "oil change now" light sooner than 10,000 miles or 1 year. Also, the plug-in version of the C-Max, the "Energi" one, can go up to 2 years or 20,000 miles since the first 20 miles is engine-off (electric only).

 

[Artem]

I wouldn't say that the engine only works half the time. No way you're getting miles and miles of electric only driving with the engine off.

Coasting to a redlight with the engine off when you've just been driving for a hundred miles on the highway with it running is the reality of the situation. Lol.

You hybrid drivers sure are an interesting bunch.

 

[Zee09]

Originally Posted by Artem
I wouldn't say that the engine only works half the time. No way you're getting miles and miles of electric only driving with the engine off.

Coasting to a redlight with the engine off when you've just been driving for a hundred miles on the highway with it running is the reality of the situation. Lol.

You hybrid drivers sure are an interesting bunch.


It is better than you think. He can give you a reading that shows how many miles he ran on electric.
While we are talking about false claims. I do virtually no town or city driving- I live in a farm community.
I get spectacular numbers regardless- so this car isn't high mpg in the city only.

When I sit at a drive through it can take sometimes 15-20 minutes on a very busy day. I don't use the ac or lights while in line
and the gas motor never kicks in. In the winter if I use the heated seat and not the heater it never kicks in either.


In this car you get to speed- let off the gas and go into electric mode ( full speed too). Only the people that get below EPA numbers never let off and readjust.
And I for one don't hyper mile a car- I pass most on the road. It ain't 50% of the time but it ain't for coasting either.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by Artem
I wouldn't say that the engine only works half the time. No way you're getting miles and miles of electric only driving with the engine off. Coasting to a redlight with the engine off when you've just been driving for a hundred miles on the highway with it running is the reality of the situation. Lol.
Only when the highway is very flat will that happen. I said I am getting about 50% engine off. My driving cycles. ... The least downhill situation, up to 85 mph in C-Max, will turn the engine off. At low or medium speeds, again, flat ground reduces the % of time the engine is off. Hills are great for engine-off. ... Of course stop-lights help turn the engine off too.

This thing rarely idles, probably only idling 10% as much as an old-fashioned Model T.

Originally Posted by Artem
You hybrid drivers sure are an interesting bunch.
It does work well. People like you who haven't experience instant torque from an electric motor off the line have trouble picturing it.

 

[dave1251]

Interesting UOA. I am curious what a PP only UOA would look like.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by Zee09
Originally Posted by Artem
I wouldn't say that the engine only works half the time. No way you're getting miles and miles of electric only driving with the engine off.
It is better than you think. He can give you a reading that shows how many miles he ran on electric. While we are talking about false claims. I do virtually no town or city driving

I have proof I'm not a liar.

I really do get around 50% EV miles. This UOA is with little idling, and ~50% of the miles with the gas engine running.
There are about 20 C-Max drivers who reported an average of around 50%. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topi...total-mi-ev-mi-regen-mi-and-brake-score/
I don't hyper-mile. With hybrids, you can use a "burst-n-glide" approach that I rarely use. Its where you accelerate at around 75% torque load @ ~2,000 RPM, working with the power-split software algorithm commands, and try to maximize efficiency. That's too annoying to do most of the time.
For example, I drove it today, and did 17 miles of not many hills, some stop-n-go, very suburban type driving, with 10 miles EV-mode (engine off), making it 59% engine-off miles.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Just put in a high-moly Eneos Racing Street 0w20 SN GF-5 oil, lowest KV40 I could find, a lot of moly to help with the start-stop events.

Originally Posted by AZjeff
If you think it only sees 50% active time maybe it's harder on oil than you think?
Now that I think about it, the oil **sometimes** does have trouble getting up to temperature. A hybrid will cut off the engine, and I've notice oil temperature can fall again. Mainly in winter of course. People who short-trip these things are really in trouble I'd think. Ford had a temperature chart for oil life (stress) and it was bucket shaped, meaning cool oil, and time spent being cool or warm-ish in a running engine, can be an oil life problem. Chart comes from a master's thesis that got a hold of it from Ford: