Pennzoil High-Mileage vs. Long-Life In High Mileage Gas Engine...Your Thoughts?

[Jelly]

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	   Pennzoil High-Mileage 10w-40		     Pennzoil Long-Life 15w-40
Viscosity:
@40°C, cSt		109.4						118
@100°C, cSt		15.50						15.8

Pour Point, °C(°F)	-30(-22)					-33(-27)

Viscosity Index	        149				                136

Low Temperature
Viscosity cP at
Temperature (°C) 	<7,000@-25					6,400@-20

HT/HS			3.93						4.3
  

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Well, this new post is a kind of "summation" from the questions I've been asking lately...I think I've found an oil to take the place of Long-Life 15w-40 in my truck! For reference, engine is a high mileage TBI GM 4.3L V6 that is, at least internally, very clean. OCI's will be no more than 4,000 miles. Looks like a pretty darn good oil, and something that might help reduce my blue-smoke startup issues as well as keep consumption low. So what do my BiTOG "buds" think about the high-mileage 10w-40?

 

[rg144]

Been there, done that; shouldn't hurt a thing though. In fact I even added some 20w50 Pennz HM (thicker at startup - I wondered if it would help). Still ... blue puff at start-up (but this is a huge improvement - '96 Caravan with 135K that ARX treatment fixed in a big way). Nothing short of new seals probably will fix it. BTW, Target has it for $1.79, and Pep Boys for $1.89 (if you get 6 qts you get a $5 coupon for Shell, hmmm).

 

[Brett Miller]

The only way to fix the start-up smoke is valve seals.

 

[MikeR]

It appears that like others here, you've had very good luck reducing consumption with LL. Based upon these numbers, how would the HM help with consumption and startup smoke? mr

 

[williar]

I agree with Brett, the problem with startup smoke is valve guide seals. Fix those and go back to 10w30 or 5w30 and you'll be alot better off.

 

[Jelly]

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Originally posted by Brett Miller: The only way to fix the start-up smoke is valve seals.

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Originally posted by williar: I agree with Brett, the problem with startup smoke is valve guide seals.

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I also understand that the startup smoke is caused by the valve guide seals. Using your reasoning then though, how does Auto-RX work it's magic?

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Originally posted by MikeR: It appears that like others here, you've had very good luck reducing consumption with LL. Based upon these numbers, how would the HM help with consumption and startup smoke? mr

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Twofold: First off, the Long-Life like viscosity and molybdenum rich additive pack should (hopefully) keep overall engine oil consumption at the same level. Second, the high-mileage "agents" should (once again, hopefully) help in reducing the blue smoke on startup...

 

[MikeR]

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First off, the Long-Life like viscosity and molybdenum rich additive pack should (hopefully) keep overall engine oil consumption at the same level. Second, the high-mileage "agents" should (once again, hopefully) help in reducing the blue smoke on startup...

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Right on. The HM is a little thinner, and at 10-40, might shear a bit more. Other than that, if you get LL-like results PLUS the seal softeners, it could very well be a good combination. Let us know how the HM works! thx, MR

 

[Brett Miller]

I can't see how Auto-Rx would help the valve seals.

 

[Motorbike]

I can't even see going to the effort of replacing positive type valve seals on a high mile engine known for lack of concentricity of the guide chimney in relation to the ID of the seal . Factor in the guide wear and the concentricity up to .0XXX off from the factory like the 7.3 Ford and certain other motors I know of it would take but few miles to elongate the seals again be them Nitrile , Polyacrylate , Silicone or Viton . Upon rebuild though a machinist in the know can get everything indexed on certain problem engines and the positive type seals used on certain American engines can last as long as the best Japanese engines ....... if the correct replacement seal is used . If not though , oil viscosity , brand ect will always be the culprit when it comes to consumption to the untrained end user .