Pennzoil Gods , have I sinned?

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There was also a post by a gentlemen who posted pics under the valve cover of an engine run exclusively on Mobil 1 with like 6K to 8K oil change intervals and it was varnished.

Again, I know you don't believe me, but I'm sure some of the old timers here remember that thread!!!! (it was a war...)

With the advent of GF-4 and GF-5, NO oil will leave varnish and deposits in the proper application. The testing is that tuff compared to GF-1 through GF-3.
 
Trust me I've pondered PP use in this M6, and will probably still ponder it. But I've never had a vehicle (to my knowledge) with a mirror finish on the internals (kind've a nirvana thing) - thus the emphasis on cleanliness - and I "know" what I "know" about M1, but I don't "know" it about PP (this obviously doesn't mean it's not true for PP - my "know" is very limited).
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
There was also a post by a gentlemen who posted pics under the valve cover of an engine run exclusively on Mobil 1 with like 6K to 8K oil change intervals and it was varnished.

Again, I know you don't believe me, but I'm sure some of the old timers here remember that thread!!!! (it was a war...)

With the advent of GF-4 and GF-5, NO oil will leave varnish and deposits in the proper application. The testing is that tuff compared to GF-1 through GF-3.


Interesting post - more brooding material for me.
 
Just another thing to throw in there, an engine always fed M1 has probably had good maintenance in all regards, because correct or not it is what most people use when they want to use "the best."

Most of the varnished-looking engine photos I've seen here were certainly not with M1, but more likely had a very uncertain and inconsistent service.

My perception is that M1 is very good for cleanliness, but I have to admit even that is probably as much a product of marketing as much as anything else. Passing Honda's and some other tests does add credibility to the perception, though.

Like wear, though, I doubt it will matter for the vast majority of engines/owners, and ironically it would probably matter more for those that see inconsistent service than otherwise. I suspect most BITOGer-owned cars (owned since new anyway) are going to stay looking like new indefinitely on any decent oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: ericthepig
Drew, while you doing your casual reading, why don't you casually find a post that shows PP can keep a mirror finish on an engine after several years and multi-tens-of-thousands of miles.

Rots of ruck.

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There was a post here a while back of a gentlemen with a GM 3.1L with over 300,000 miles using nothing but Pennzoil CONVENTIONAL oil and it was as clean as Overkills 5.0L when the motor was torn apart to fix the intake gaskets. The search won't go back far enough to find it, but you probably wouldn't believe it anyway...
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That engine had 3,000 Mile OCI's. And GM's 3.1L is well known for being a pretty clean engine. The Windsor Ford engines.... Not so much.

I'm running more than 2x the mileage per OCI (otherwise, what's the point of synthetic?) and on an engine that isn't "nice" to oil.

I have never ONCE stated that M1 is the "be all and end all" of motor oils. I think there are LOTS of great synthetics, PP being one of them!

That's the difference here. I will recommend M1 and NOT bash it's competition.

He who speaks volumes about what he dislikes really has nothing to say.
 
No, he who speaks volumes of truth and dispels advertising jargon and hype speaks truth.

Should I whip out the pics of the Civic which had 10,000 mile oil change intervals with Havoline conventional that's as crystal clean as your Ford?

I'm not bashing, you're taking it personally.

I'm informing newcomers to this site that you don't need to spend $5 bucks a quart on motor oil to get long life out of an engine.

Did you miss the spot where I said I think Mobil 1 has improved? Or were you busy unwadding your panties?
 
Originally Posted By: ericthepig
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT

We now have Pennzoil Platinum that is proving equally, if not more capable for almost 1/3 the price.


Wally World here has PP at $19, M1 at $23 & chg. That AIN'T 1/3 the price.

This PP vs. M1 discussion is a mess for many reasons - you have all the different grades (I've only seen M1 5w30 discussed in the context of "high" iron #s) - I can't even find PP in 0w20 (I can buy M1 0w20 all day at Wally). So discussing the merits of PP 0w20 is moot for many of us - unless it hits the shelves soon. Then there's the PP Euro 5w30s and 40s - all discussions of these vs. M1 0w40 are apparently purely theoretical since you apparently have to work in a PP lab to acquire them. And I have loads of my own evidence and BITOG evidence that M1 can keep an engine extremely clean even at long drains - meanwhile PP may do this as well - I just haven't read any evidence of it on BITOG - good wear #s out to 10k yes, spanking clean engine after tens of thousands of miles on PP - I ain't seen any such post. I can read post like this all day concerning M1.


Wal-Mart isn't the only store in the United States... I know sometimes it may seem so.
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I got my Pennzoil Platinum for $3/quart at Advance Auto and I also got 6 more quarts for free after Pennzoil rebate (I actually got paid to use it, it costed me ~$40 for the case and I got $60 back!) Personally, the only reason I wouldn't use M1 is because it's so expensive. I only buy stuff if it's on sale. $3/quart for synthetic and $1/quart for conventional is my cutoff price.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
No, he who speaks volumes of truth and dispels advertising jargon and hype speaks truth.

Should I whip out the pics of the Civic which had 10,000 mile oil change intervals with Havoline conventional that's as crystal clean as your Ford?

I'm not bashing, you're taking it personally.

I'm informing newcomers to this site that you don't need to spend $5 bucks a quart on motor oil to get long life out of an engine.

Did you miss the spot where I said I think Mobil 1 has improved? Or were you busy unwadding your panties?



A LOT of bashing takes place and yes, it gets on my nerves after a while to hear the same things re-hashed over, and over and OVER again!!!

You and I have also discussed, in another thread, that some engines are simply more prone to accumulating [censored] than others; some engines are just much easier on oil.

Instead of bringing up a Civic, and a GM, how about finding me a Ford pushrod Windsor engine that was run on conventional that is as clean as mine?

Because of the PILE of 302's I've seen apart (and trust me, I've seen a LOT), the common theme among the clean ones has been synthetic oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Mephy
I think that you would have done better to put pennzoil platinum much better than mobil


+1 after 2-3 factory spec OCI's your Toyota engine will love it.
 
Originally Posted By: glennc
By "almost as expensive," do you mean "half as expensive?"


PP 5w30 is $29.94 for 4.73L at Walmart
M1 5w30 is $41.77 for 5.00L at Walmart

PP = $6.33/L
M1 = $8.35/L

So yeah, I would definitely agree there is a SIGNIFICANT difference in price between the two oils right now.

FWIW, M1 was in the 30's the last time I checked. This price hike is recent.
 
Actually that's closer than it is here, at least going by prices at my local W-M, where it really is still almost double for M1.
 
Originally Posted By: N3OO
My hands are shake'n and dripping of dino oil as I type this.
My confession is , is that I just switched to synthetic oil.

Listen......I recently purchased a used 05 Toyota Camry 2.4 4 CYL with 36k , it had Toyota oil and filter. It just turned 39k today and the oil was due for a 5k change. All my Pennzoil dino was not the grade the manual says to use......SOooo I went and bought a jug of Mobil 1 5w 30 and Mobil 1 extended filter.....just finished put'n that in. Why did I go to synthetic ? I dunno why , but reading all the posting's here , I guess that was the thing to do. This is my first dose of synthetic in any car I've ever owned , so it's do or die kinda deal. I would have used Penn Plat , but read about oil consumption etc , also read about the Mobil 5w 30 too. Geeesh , no matter which oil I would have put in , I'd wonder if I made the right choice. OH WELL , too late now , it's in there.
I'll change it at about 6k or 9 mos or so and see what I have.
Do you think the yellow bottled Pennzoil Gods forgive me ? lol

BOB in PA


BOB in PA, the yellow bottled Pennzoil gods are at peace with your decision. But as you can see, the devil's advocates are out in force.
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Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
3rdye, you cheapskate, you are compromising your engine!


I know! It's paying me back by never burning any oil and having no sludge/varnish. It's a love/hate relationship.
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But hey, I'm not all that cheap, back when I first bought the car I did purchase an EaO and 2 gallons of ASL
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I still have 1 gallon left! After I found some of the great deals on the Product Rebates thread here, I couldn't stop myself from filling my reserves!

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Haven't seen a cat fight like this on BITOG for quite some time....

First off, the only "mirror finish" engine pictures I have ever seen here on bitog were of a high mileage engine running Redline synthetics. The pictures showed an engine that appeared to have just come out of the box!!

Having said that, some of the Redline UOAs show less than stellar wear metal #s.

As far as the rest of these statements here go, I have seen good and bad pics of Mobil 1 engines (the M1 Las Vegas taxi pictures left a lot to be desired IMHO, I always thought up until then that M1 NEVER varnished, no matter how extreme the service). But M1 normally engines are clean.

Recent pics here of a high mileage BMW with OCI's based on it's oil change indicator (around 15k miles), using BMW's house brand oil were pretty good.

Then there's Bill in Utah who normally uses the cheapest oil he can buy and has some of the best wear #s out here. His recent UOA of Amsoil lubricants in his Toyota weren't that great for the money he parted with.

Bottom line? If you like an oil, use it; just do as Bill in Utah's signature says - use the best oil for your car; follow the manufacturer recommendations for OCI and type.

Around my house we use GC in an aging Bimmer, PP in a Mazdaspeed 3, M1 in both a Tahoe and Mazda Miata, all for various reasons.

I'll close this ridiculous diatribe with this - here at bitog one rarely reads of a catastrophic engine failure that is oil related. We mostly hear about good running engines on brand X oil and what we are doing to get this.

Use whatever oil you like, you'll probably trade the car before the engine falls apart.

Cheers!
 
Originally Posted By: N3OO
My hands are shake'n and dripping of dino oil as I type this.
My confession is , is that I just switched to synthetic oil.

Listen......I recently purchased a used 05 Toyota Camry 2.4 4 CYL with 36k , it had Toyota oil and filter. It just turned 39k today and the oil was due for a 5k change. All my Pennzoil dino was not the grade the manual says to use......SOooo I went and bought a jug of Mobil 1 5w 30 and Mobil 1 extended filter.....just finished put'n that in. Why did I go to synthetic ? I dunno why , but reading all the posting's here , I guess that was the thing to do. This is my first dose of synthetic in any car I've ever owned , so it's do or die kinda deal. I would have used Penn Plat , but read about oil consumption etc , also read about the Mobil 5w 30 too. Geeesh , no matter which oil I would have put in , I'd wonder if I made the right choice. OH WELL , too late now , it's in there.
I'll change it at about 6k or 9 mos or so and see what I have.
Do you think the yellow bottled Pennzoil Gods forgive me ? lol

BOB in PA

Life goes on. I swithced my Tacoma from Mobil One to PP...so far so good.
 
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