Pennzoil 4 stroke Marine oil not available in Canada anymore?

[4WD]

I have Pennzoil Marine 4 stroke in my motor now, but got it on clearance. Can't find it anywhere.
Bought some Quicksilver FC-W and might run that next change.
I posted Mystik NMMA recently with properties like Noack much better than Rotella
NMMA oils are not expensive for me since it's just 2 quarts when filter stays on.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted by 4WD
I have Pennzoil Marine 4 stroke in my motor now, but got it on clearance. Can't find it anywhere.
Bought some Quicksilver FC-W and might run that next change.
I posted Mystik NMMA recently with properties like Noack much better than Rotella
NMMA oils are not expensive for me since it's just 2 quarts when filter stays on.


Quote
[/quote]I feel for you! I would be waffling about it, too. For reference, my dad, when he had the boats, was using ordinary PCMO of the day in 10w-30, which might have had a higher HTHS than we normally see in say PP or PUP now. The boat he had the longest was an inboard, though, and I'm not sure how much that matters. The engine outlasted everything else.

Well, I broke down and purchased some Quicksilver oils (engine/gear) and a Sierra oil filter plus a gear lube pump from a friend I use to work with who now owns a boating supply store/shop.
It's pricey oil, $65.99, for 4 liters up here (I also purchased a single quart) but he did give me a bit of a deal on everything so I can't complain.
I went with the 25W-40 semi synthetic grade as opposed to the 10W-30 as I figured it's highly unlikely I will be boating in any weather 40F or less.

I've watched a couple vids and everything looks straight forward so I have no worries. I plan to run some Seafoam through the fuel system, but I am unsure/uncertain if I should fog it or just spray some down each cylinder? It's an EFI so I assume it likely isn't a good idea to fog it, if I can even do that?
(2007 Merc 90 H/P 4 stroke)

Not sure what else I should do other than the obvious of removing the batteries, clean/coat of wax on boat and engine, grease, etc, but I am open to suggestions.

I am hoping, although not verified yet, to be able to store it indoors? Hopefully I can so I won't have to worry about shrink wrapping it or tarping it.

With it being in storage all winter, likely 7 months, should the engine be tilted all the way down or should I use the factory installed tilt bracket to support it in a semi up position? (proper name escapes me currently?)
What about a transom saver? I will be towing it home approx 125 kms (80 miles) and then obviously returning in the spring for likely many years to come. I've read pros and cons about it years ago but I wonder if that debate has been settled?

Thanks guys.

 

[4WD]

With it being in storage all winter, likely 7 months, should the engine be tilted all the way down or should I use the factory installed tilt bracket to support it in a semi up position? (proper name escapes me currently?)
What about a transom saver? I will be towing it home approx 125 kms (80 miles) and then obviously returning in the spring for likely many years to come. I've read pros and cons about it years ago but I wonder if that debate has been settled?

Thanks guys.

[/quote]

For motor position - whatever gets the water out of it up where you are. Once parked - I leave mine tilted based on how the pistons lie. They can seep oil above the piston - so it can get smoky at start up if tilted too much - but a little is probably better than a dry start.
Not sure what length you have - but on my 25" shaft it came outfitted with a transom saver - that's lots of upper leverage when the lower unit gets to bouncing.
If you don't already have them - I'd put in a Perko switch to protect the battery from parasitic loss - very well made brand.

For cleaning and care - 3M makes outstanding products that can prevent mildew and stuff like that. Another not so cheap but solid product - Corrosion X

 

[irv]

Originally Posted by 4WD
With it being in storage all winter, likely 7 months, should the engine be tilted all the way down or should I use the factory installed tilt bracket to support it in a semi up position? (proper name escapes me currently?)
What about a transom saver? I will be towing it home approx 125 kms (80 miles) and then obviously returning in the spring for likely many years to come. I've read pros and cons about it years ago but I wonder if that debate has been settled?

Thanks guys.

For motor position - whatever gets the water out of it up where you are. Once parked - I leave mine tilted based on how the pistons lie. They can seep oil above the piston - so it can get smoky at start up if tilted too much - but a little is probably better than a dry start.
Not sure what length you have - but on my 25" shaft it came outfitted with a transom saver - that's lots of upper leverage when the lower unit gets to bouncing.
If you don't already have them - I'd put in a Perko switch to protect the battery from parasitic loss - very well made brand.

For cleaning and care - 3M makes outstanding products that can prevent mildew and stuff like that. Another not so cheap but solid product - Corrosion X[/quote]

With the freezing temps up here, tilting it all the way down or level I think would be required? I may just remove the prop anyways so none can accumulate in there, especially if I have to store it outdoors?
Any other place(s) I have to be concerned about with water accumulating? Before I take it to storage, I will ensure, with the engine tilted all the way down, that all water has stopped dripping.

I like Collinite wax and will most likely use that on the boat and engine and the hardware. Interior wise, I will clean and apply protectant to the seats (Meguiar's) but most likely will just store them at home or at the trailer so that won't be a concern.
I'd like to steam clean/shampoo the carpet, time/weather permitting, as well.

I am unsure the shaft length (best pic I have below) but I am curious about your already outfitted transom saver? When I think of transom savers, I think of these kinds.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted by 4WD
With it being in storage all winter, likely 7 months, should the engine be tilted all the way down or should I use the factory installed tilt bracket to support it in a semi up position? (proper name escapes me currently?)
What about a transom saver? I will be towing it home approx 125 kms (80 miles) and then obviously returning in the spring for likely many years to come. I've read pros and cons about it years ago but I wonder if that debate has been settled?

Thanks guys.

For motor position - whatever gets the water out of it up where you are. Once parked - I leave mine tilted based on how the pistons lie. They can seep oil above the piston - so it can get smoky at start up if tilted too much - but a little is probably better than a dry start.
Not sure what length you have - but on my 25" shaft it came outfitted with a transom saver - that's lots of upper leverage when the lower unit gets to bouncing.
If you don't already have them - I'd put in a Perko switch to protect the battery from parasitic loss - very well made brand.

For cleaning and care - 3M makes outstanding products that can prevent mildew and stuff like that. Another not so cheap but solid product - Corrosion X[/quote]

4WD, on pg 21 of the owners manual I found on line, it reads not to use the outboard tilt support lever for trailering. Is this maybe what you are talking about when you say your's came outfitted with one?

"Trailering Boat/Outboard Trailer your boat with the outboard tilted down in a vertical operating position. If additional ground clearance is required, the outboard should be tilted up using an accessory outboard support device. Refer to your local dealer for recommendations. Additional clearance may be required for railroad crossings, driveways and trailer bouncing.
ob00660 IMPORTANT: Do not rely on the power trim/tilt system or tilt support lever to maintain proper ground clearance for trailering. The outboard tilt support lever is not intended to support the outboard for trailering. Shift the outboard to forward gear. This prevents the propeller from spinning freely"

Like I mentioned, I read about these transom savers years ago and it was a highly contested debate with both pro's and cons. I came away from it no further ahead of what to do and since I only trailer 11 kms one way each year, I never bothered to purchase one. Judging by the info in the manual I just posted, I assume if Merc recommends one then I should likely purchase one? I'm glad I read about the prop spinning and putting it in forward to stop that. That is something I never considered nor ever did when I picked up or delivered my boat to the dealership.

 

[Garak]

That oil price is a bit high, but it's about where you expect for marine type lubes from an ordinary shop around here. So, I think you did okay. It's not what we would have liked with Pennzoil 4 Stroke Marine Oil from Blue Wave, but it's as good as we can expect within spec.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted by Garak
That oil price is a bit high, but it's about where you expect for marine type lubes from an ordinary shop around here. So, I think you did okay. It's not what we would have liked with Pennzoil 4 Stroke Marine Oil from Blue Wave, but it's as good as we can expect within spec.


I never compared the semi syn to the Merc brand (which this is) but I assume it is even more expensive? Most I could find on line, in the regular dino flavor, were all in 3.78 ltr jugs. The jug I purchased was semi syn and it came in a 4 ltr jug.

I knew it was going to be expensive going in but with the deal my friend gave me, (about 6 bucks off) I was OK with it. I may look/keep an eye out for a sale on Amazon or elsewhere over the next year to have some on back up or as a stash like I do with engine oil but I am unsure if this type of oil ever goes on sale?

 

[claluja]

Use transom savers thousands of miles each year. Great products.

Yamaha Outboard Motor Trailer Support MAR-MTSPT-YM-10 for sale online | eBay
https://www.ebay.com/p/Yamaha-Outboard-Motor-Trailer-Support-MAR-MTSPT-YM-10/704780888

 

[4WD]

I have only used the upper latch while changing the water pump, etc. On the road - it would still stress the transom.
The dealer installed the type in your picture - this was a big, large volume dealership who only sold Mercs - and everywhere I looked there were transom savers between the lower units and the trailer.
As for the prop - sure, why not ? you should take a prop off once a year to clean the spine and put fresh grease on anyway - make sure there is no fishing line wrapped on it - things like that. The little nut retainers should be replaced but they are cheap.

For water - if not hard to do you can give it a chase with a leaf blower from a distance - it should help break up any pocket of water that become trapped. I know there are guys that put glycol in the last little bit of rinse fluid - but given time to dry out there's nothing to freeze.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted by claluja
Use transom savers thousands of miles each year. Great products.

Yamaha Outboard Motor Trailer Support MAR-MTSPT-YM-10 for sale online | eBay
https://www.ebay.com/p/Yamaha-Outboard-Motor-Trailer-Support-MAR-MTSPT-YM-10/704780888


Claluja, I don't think that is a transom support but rather just a trim/tilt support to take pressure off it. A true transom saver, as far as I know, needs to be like the one I posted above where it goes from the trailer to the engine.
It's the bouncing and the stress it applies to the transom that you want to protect. With the one in your pic, because it only goes between the engine mounting bracket on the transom to the engine, it is still a one piece unit in a sense that is not stopping the bouncing that is going to the transom.

"Yamaha Trim and Tilt Outboard Trailering Support MAR-MTSPT"
"After trailering my boat the Fl. Keys and the trim unit having issues, the marina suggested I start using one"


Originally Posted by 4WD
I have only used the upper latch while changing the water pump, etc. On the road - it would still stress the transom.
The dealer installed the type in your picture - this was a big, large volume dealership who only sold Mercs - and everywhere I looked there were transom savers between the lower units and the trailer.
As for the prop - sure, why not ? you should take a prop off once a year to clean the spine and put fresh grease on anyway - make sure there is no fishing line wrapped on it - things like that. The little nut retainers should be replaced but they are cheap.

For water - if not hard to do you can give it a chase with a leaf blower from a distance - it should help break up any pocket of water that become trapped. I know there are guys that put glycol in the last little bit of rinse fluid - but given time to dry out there's nothing to freeze.


I was looking at one today but since I practically know nothing about them, I was unsure if this one would work or not? I need to do some research to ensure I choose the correct one first. It was roughly $70 dollars and looked stout, but I was unsure of the length and the opening/V that will surround my lower unit.

Yes, a definite must concerning the prop and lubing the spline. My dealer looked after this and everything else since 2006 onward but I feel comfortable doing this myself as I replaced my stock prop in 08 or 09 with a Turning Point prop.

I also read to store the engine in the complete down/vertical position. My bud did this and screwed up his trim/tilt somehow? I asked him briefly and he said something about taking/releasing pressure off the trim unit? Does that ring a bell to you or like me, is something you have never heard of before? His was an 07 75 H/P 4 stroke Merc on his pontoon boat. I will be asking him again this weekend if I don't forget?

Most vids I watched just recently had the peeps just spraying some fog lube into the cylinders after they removed the spark plugs of course. Not one vid of one of these 4 stroke engines actually being fogged where they spray the fog into the engine until it quits? Any idea if it is not recommended to do it this way with these fuelie 4 strokes?

Thanks

 

[4WD]

Guess that's possible - could always dry it out vertical and then raise it up to land on the transom saver so it's off the hydraulic rams
(some of them have two square tubes that telescope so you can adjust length)
Not sure about the fogging - I'm able to start mine on a hose even in the winter since we don't freeze but for short periods at a time.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted by 4WD
Guess that's possible - could always dry it out vertical and then raise it up to land on the transom saver so it's off the hydraulic rams
(some of them have two square tubes that telescope so you can adjust length)
Not sure about the fogging - I'm able to start mine on a hose even in the winter since we don't freeze but for short periods at a time.


I'll have to ask the Marina where I purchased and stored my boat what they did? I would assume they likely did nothing other than just treat the fuel but I could be wrong?
Regardless, I think the minimum I will do is to spray some fog fluid in the cylinders and rotate the engine a bunch of times to spread it around. I normally fog my snowmobiles until they stall but both are carbed, not EFI's.
In this vid, the guy runs some pre-mixed fuel through the fuel system until smoke appears. It's only a 40 with a portable tank so this would almost be impossible with a built in tank unless you didn't mind a smoke show until all that gas was burned off in the spring/summer? I also don't believe in leaving the gas tank full to prevent condensation. I think condensation would be minimal and I'd rather add fresh fuel to an almost empty tank in the spring rather than trying to burn off a full tank of 7 month old gas. I've been doing it this way for years on all my toys and have never had a problem.

 

[irv]

Well, the boat is home and I'm currently in the process of winterizing it. I pulled the boat last Thursday as our lake's water level is way too low for this time of year and, imo, if I left it any longer, I wouldn't get my boat off the lift.
As it is, I had to stand on the dock to pull/push it off the lift as with me in the boat, with my lift completely lowered as far as it would go, I was too heavy for it back it off the normal way.

Yesterday I drained and changed the lower unit oil and serviced my prop. Today, hopefully, I will be changing the oil/filter and doing some other work in preparation for storage. I want to shampoo my carpets, give it a coat of wax, wash the cover, grease, wash/wax my trailer, etc.

The drive home went great. The engine never budged without a transom saver nor any other support.
I talked to the marina and they purchase a product, likely from Merc, that they add to the fuel. This product is suppose to be super concentrated and it is suppose to treat and lube the fuel system as well as fog the engine somehow? Supposedly a 5 gallon pail of this stuff is about $1600 hundred dollars CDN?!?! The place was crazy busy with people dropping off their boats so getting any more info/detail was futile. Anyone hazard a guess what this stuff might be?

 

[ovovov]

so the decsion is t5 from shell.

Canadian tire carry them at 38 per 5L.

Lordco( from BC) has them around 36. If you are with CRD, you can get it for $27

 

[irv]

Purchased 5 liters of Merc semi syn 25-40, a new oil filter, 1 liter of Merc high performance gear oil and 3 new squish washers for the lower unit and my OTD price was $145 dollars! I'm not 100% sure as I don't recall if the oil I looked at last year was syn but the price of a 4 ltr jug of oil has jumped $15 dollars compared to last. Pricey stuff this Merc oil/products are!