PCV valve?

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My Nissan truck (3.0, auto, 4wd) has 110k miles on it and has never used any oil at all. I changed to Havoline 5w-30 (sm/gf-4)about 2500 miles ago due to the response it recieves on here. Well I drove to Charlotte and back like a wild Indian going to crap (80 mph/2800 rpm)and Saturday the oil was down slightly on the dipstick, about 1/16th of an inch on the bulb. I wonder if the pcv valve could cause this since it has never ever used any even when I ran Mobil DC gf-4 through the fall and winter. Any thoughts? I am thinking of going back to the good ol' 10w-30 in something (Maxlife syn probably) but am curious as to the cause.
 
I say it was more the high speed driving then a PCV problem that caused the consumption.Couldn't hurt to inspect it though.
 
ben that makes sense. It has been in through the winter and has done a many a short trip (5 miles one way) to work and back. I have heard that the Havoline 5w-30 thins out quick too. It is getting hot and the common wisdom is to put in a 10w for the summer so I guess I will do that very soon.
 
ALL conventional 5W-30s tend to shear back to a moderate-to-high 20 weight. (Stands to reason - conventional 5W-30s depend more on shear and oxidation-prone VIIs to support that 30 weight viscosity when hot - and any organics that oxidize set the stage for varnish and sludge formation, too.) Besides that, fuel and water condensation dilution, and a lead foot on a good, hot run would act in concert to lower the apparent oil level as Ben brought up. Unless you have an overriding reason for the 5W viscosity category in a conventional, you'd probably have less of an oil consumption issue with a good 10W-30 conventional. (Havoline or its sister product, Chevron Supreme, would definitely qualify.) Frankly, I question the importance of the claimed CAFE fuel mileage advantage of 5W-20 over 10W-30 in real-world driving conditions, too.

Sidebar - synthetic motor oils depend MUCH less on VIIs.
 
The few ounces of Havoline you used may be due to a different package of additives it has vs the Mobil. That slight loss may be only temporary now that a good engine run has filled all gaps with Havoline's richness in moly & boron. I wouldn't sweat it... another trip to Charlotte might not produce a 1/16ths loss now. If it does, your engine may have a use-preference for Mobil over Havoline.

Alot of folks get turned off by Mobil-1 synthetic too -- using it for the first time in a used dino engine. They become alarmed when all of-a-sudden, a half-quart is missing from the crankcase after 1500 miles. All that loss is generally just a new coating & burnoff from cleaning inside the engine. Mobil-1 even recommends a shorter OCI with your first use because of it's cleaning & coating effect. The next OCI usually will see oil use that's back to normal for the vehicle owner.

[ May 09, 2005, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: Triple_Se7en ]
 
i got the same engine as you and even with a brand new PCV (less than 300 miles on it) im catching a suprising amount of oil in my PCV oil catch. If i were you id replace it anyway, its $10 from the dealer and i would only use OEM
 
Ditto to the response by triple_se7en!! He said it much better than I ever could. If you are going to use a dino Havoline is as good as any and better than some. 10W30 in our Summer temps might not be a bad idea. It rarely cools off enough in the late Spring/Summer enough to make a difference between 5W and 10W30.
 
does any one here know the iridium plug part no?
Is it NGK BKR6E1X-11 ?
Denso IK20 ?
Denso SK20R-P11 ?
Denso VK20PR-Z11 ?
Whic part no is the correct one?
Cheers.
 
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