Passat Sludge/Coking Suggestions

[BrianWC]

Originally Posted By: crw
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
I dunno about the BG flush as THE solution. The SAAB master mechanic who has been most proactive in getting REAL solutions out there for the SAAB sludge problem (Chuck Andrews) has steered away from them from what I can tell. I haven't heard exactly why, but when he first got his machine, he was very excited about it. Now not so much. I think he just goes straight to a bit of a tear down and cleaning. I don't know if he wasn't impressed with the results or what. Has anyone got any before/after pics of a BG flushed engine?


There are lots of before and after pics of an Auto-Rx'ed engine. Do some searches here.


Um, yeah, I'm one of them! I said before/after of the BG Flush!

 

[MikenAZ]

My girlfriend recently purchased a 2002 VW Passat 1.8T and did not get the maintenance records from the previous owner. She has only owned it for a few thousand miles and did her first and only oil change at 3k miles with conventional oil. Last week her Stop Engine - Check Oil Pressure indicator came on after driving it for over an hour. At that point she had her oil changed, a tune up, and a hose replaced. The light didn't come back on for a week or so until she drove it for an over a hour for a second time. Since then she hasn't driven it. A neighborhood mechanic suggested that we try breaking up the sludge by putting a couple of quarts of ATF in it and driving it around for a couple of days and replacing the oil, but I am reluctant to try that given it's a turbo. The car does not knock or ping, although it does feel a little sluggish as you accellerate. My uncle and I are thinking about replacing or cleaning the oil pickup tube and/or replacing the oil pump. Our neighborhood mechanic says that there is ample oil pressure, so I am reluctant to replace the oil pump if it isn't necessary. I am also wondering if it possible to clean the oil pick up tube or does it need to be replaced? Also, would you suggest replacing the pump given the amount of work that it will take to get to it?

 

[ionbeam22]

I wouldn't put ATF in it. ATF is not ment for use at engine temperatures.

I'd take it to the dealer to have the codes run, so that you have all the information that the car has about the problem. It could be that the cause is not even oil related at all.

For engine sludge, your best bet is to run synthetic oil. Funny how the folks running synthetic oil/3K OCI's are not bothered with engine sludge

I'd run quart of MMO for a day or two, and then swap out the oil for a fresh synthetic. The MMO should help to soften up and disolve the sludge, yet without the drama of an actual engine flush.

 

[ZZman]

Sounds like at this point Auto-RX is the way to go as it is way cheaper than tear down solutions.

After that you might try Redline oil as it has high solvency and heat resistance.

 

[demarpaint]

I sold VW's for a while and these engines have been a problem. I would drop the pan clean as much as I could and replace the pump, then start adding a qt of MMO to the oil and running it the full OCI. If you don't want to drop the pan, use the Amsoil flush, drain the mess out, do an OC cheap dino and filter and drop that in about 100 miles after the flush. From that point on I would start adding a qt of MMO and run it for 3000 mile OCI's, check the filter half way through the OCI. If you ever get that engine clean add a pint of MMO for the last 1000 miles of the OCI.

 

[bondomondo]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Mucho_MPG
VW vehicles...so very unreliable.

The sludge issue is a VoA mistake, not a design/reliability issue per se. Back in those years, VoA did not specify/use the correct oil (VW502.00 spec/synthetic) in those engines and that resulted in sludging.

Quote:
Why do people buy these pieces of [censored]? Sell it right away and buy a Toyota or something more reliable.

Not everyone enjoys falling asleep behind the wheel.


I've owned a 1.8T Passat since 2003. At 97xxx miles, the only disappointments so far include a bad MAFS, cam chain tensioner and coolant temp. sensor. All other repairs have been typical for any car with high miles. Maintenance is never deferred.