Passat Sludge/Coking Suggestions

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Neversky

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Whats the simplest way to get to the oil pickup screen? I don't have any way to raise the engine is there another method? I just put 1200 dollars in to the car to get the throttle body replaced. I haven't even got to drive it since that work was done. The car is in another town and I hoping that I would be able to get it back up here. Looks like it's going to have to stay for awhile \:\(
 

crw

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Do the Auto-Rx! You mentioned that you had to order it.... mine arrived in TWO DAYS! The Auto-Rx will clean slowly, and that's what you need. Certainly you will need two or more cycles through the program. I'm doing mine, not because of any particular issue, just preventive maintenance. But only 1000 miles into the cleaning phase I'm getting better MPG on each tank, and the engine is smoother with more power. As for the throttle body, you could have bought a remanufactured unit from an operation on the east coast... can't remember the name right now... for only $120 and install it yourself. FWIW, there is a testimonial of a Passat 1.8T on the Auto-Rx site, which sounds a lot like your situation. I think it's worth a try.
 

Neversky

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Never have never will. I knew the throttle body was bad but I took it in to a transmission shop because it wasn't shifting properly and I wanted it to get dealt with before the transmission was totally shot. Well first they thought it was the tranny but they inspected it and it was fine. Then they thought it must be the TCM. They asked if I wanted to pay for a new one or wait until they came upon one to test with. I opted to wait. 3 months later that wasn't it. Then they said well the throttle body could do it and it needs to be replaced anyways so let's do that. Sure enough that was it. I'm not sure how much the part was but the diagnostics fee was pretty high...
 

JAG

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This is too big and serious a problem to make Auto-RX the best route IMO. The VW dealership here has a BG Engine Flush that uses a machine that pumps solvent through the engine. Below is the description. I think it's around $150 to get it done but it's much cheaper than dissassembly. This may not be the last measure you'll need to take to get the engine somewhat clean but it might help get it out of the critical state where it has greatly restricted oil flow and pressure. "BG PF12 Power Flush & Prime for Engine Oil Systems The BG PF12 Power Flush & Prime for Engine Oil Systems injects a safe, effective cleaner into the oil system. The engine is run for 15–30 minutes during the procedure. Sludge and deposits which are the result of thermal breakdown of the engine oil by the high temperatures of heavy stop-and-go driving, are removed from the cleaning solution as it is pumped through the BG PF12 filtration system. This ensures that there will be no plugging of the engine oil system. As the piston rings are cleaned, engine compression improves, which increases power and improves fuel economy. When the cleaning process is completed, the cleaning solution and any residual oil are air-blown from the engine. Then engine oil and BG MOA®, a superb lubricant and highly effective deposit control conditioner, are injected back into these air-blown areas to ensure instant lubrication at start-up. A new oil filter and the balance of the engine’s capacity of oil are then installed. Part No. PF12"
 

Neversky

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Well I have a relative that's a mechanic so I'm going to see if I can have him come over and clean that screen for me. Since it's a gear driven pump if the gears are fine I'm guessing the pump is fine. Once the flow is restored to normal I'll give the Auto-Rx treatment a try to prevent this from happening again. Does that sound like a good plan?
 

JAG

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That's good but as wolf? said above, the PCV system is probably clogged up too. It cost several hundred dollars in parts and similar in labor to replace mine in my GTI 1.8T, totalling over $500. Clogged system increases the contamination of the oil, so if you don't want to replace the system, you'll have to reduce the oil change interval by some significant (but can't quantify) amount before reaching the deposit growth stage. My deposit prevention mainly consists of using Amsoil ACD oil changed between 3500 and 4000 miles. I'm still learning after having 107K miles on my GTI what to do and not do.
 

Neversky

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 Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
 Originally Posted By: Neversky
Since it's a gear driven pump
Isn't it belt-driven?
It's belt driven but all the pump is is just a couple of gears that spin and create a suction, as long as they can still turn, the pump itself should be okay. I assume that the pickup screen is there to prevent all that larger [censored] from getting into the pump and seizing it up. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 Originally Posted By: JAG
That's good but as wolf? said above, the PCV system is probably clogged up too. It cost several hundred dollars in parts and similar in labor to replace mine in my GTI 1.8T, totalling over $500. Clogged system increases the contamination of the oil, so if you don't want to replace the system, you'll have to reduce the oil change interval by some significant (but can't quantify) amount before reaching the deposit growth stage. My deposit prevention mainly consists of using Amsoil ACD oil changed between 3500 and 4000 miles. I'm still learning after having 107K miles on my GTI what to do and not do.
I can live with that to save 500 bucks.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Neversky
 Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
 Originally Posted By: Neversky
Since it's a gear driven pump
Isn't it belt-driven?
It's belt driven but all the pump is is just a couple of gears that spin and create a suction, as long as they can still turn, the pump itself should be okay. I assume that the pickup screen is there to prevent all that larger [censored] from getting into the pump and seizing it up. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 Originally Posted By: JAG
That's good but as wolf? said above, the PCV system is probably clogged up too. It cost several hundred dollars in parts and similar in labor to replace mine in my GTI 1.8T, totalling over $500. Clogged system increases the contamination of the oil, so if you don't want to replace the system, you'll have to reduce the oil change interval by some significant (but can't quantify) amount before reaching the deposit growth stage. My deposit prevention mainly consists of using Amsoil ACD oil changed between 3500 and 4000 miles. I'm still learning after having 107K miles on my GTI what to do and not do.
I can live with that to save 500 bucks.
No, the pump will not be fine. There have been many cases in which oil pressure was ok, but flow to the bearings is compromised. VW does the BG flush and oil pump replacement as part of the sludge campaign. I would replace the pump if you are going to keep the car. You either have to raise the engine or remove the frame crossover to drop the pan. I would pull the valve cover and clean up any sludge on the head. Now I do not want to scare you but the AEB model 1.8t (1998-1999) have had massive timing belt problems, the tensioner specifically. If you are over 60k miles and are not sure of the history of the car, DO NOT RUN IT UNTIL THE TIMING BELT AND TENSIONERS ARE CHECKED. You really do not want to do a valve job on that head. The $1200 you already spent are nothing compared to other things that will go wrong with Passats. Passats are very picky cars and if they are not maintained to perfection, are one of the most expensive cars to own, OEM parts are usually of poor quality and high in price. Everything on these cars should only be touched by a specialist, a imprudent mechanic can ring up a $2000 repair bill with a keystroke. VW/Audi systems are complex and unless you have a VAG-COM a typical scan tool may erase important info stored in the computer. If you are nearing 100,000 miles, do a full tune up, use only VW spark plugs as non OEM ones may fry the coils, replace everything on the PCV system, a timing belt change may be needed so while the front of the car is apart do the water pump and thermostat and all belts, remove and clean any oil in the intercooler and double check all operation of turbo system. By turbo system I mean diverter valve, make sure the actuator rod is not sticking, and consider a reman turbo. The KKK (Borg Warner) K03 turbos are sleeve bearing turbos and are not long lived to begin with, and running with a coked engine may have killed it. You will notice a lack of boost and/or oil in the intake or excessive smoking out the exhaust. There are other known problem areas that will need attention later, but this should be a good start. If you do not have cash to spend on fixing this car, and serious money to spend down the road, sell the car. You will just get frustrated. Yes a Passat will go 200k miles, but the people who have done that have repair bills that are close to $10,000, which is what it also cost my friend to get his to 150,000 miles. Oh, and run only VW 502.00 approved oil, the Passat/A4 longitudinal engine layout has a smaller sump than on the Jetta/Golf transverse layout so proper oil is a must. And run the larger filter (forgot the part number). This is a Passat, 52,000 miles.
 
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Neversky

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I only paid 6000 for the car in the first place. I'd rather buy another car then spend another 6,000 to MAYBE fix this one. It has 112,000 miles on it. If I can get up to 125,000, I'll be content. The timing belt was replaced when I bought the car so that should be okay. If it isn't... oh well. I don't care if the turbo works or not. All I care about is can it move me from point A to point B.
 
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I dunno about the BG flush as THE solution. The SAAB master mechanic who has been most proactive in geting REAL soluions out there for the SAAB sludge problem (Chuck Andrews) has steered away from them from what I can tell. I haven't heard exactly why, but when he first got his machine, he was very excited about it. Now not so much. I think he just goes straight to a bit of a tear down and cleaning. I don't know if he wasn't impressed with the results or what. Has anyone got any before/after pics of a BG flushed engine?
 
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 Originally Posted By: wolfc70
If you are over 60k miles and are not sure of the history of the car, DO NOT RUN IT UNTIL THE TIMING BELT AND TENSIONERS ARE CHECKED.
Is it really something that can be checked? From all I've read, the tensioner can be fine today, but snap on you tomorrow. There's just no warning signs.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
 Originally Posted By: wolfc70
If you are over 60k miles and are not sure of the history of the car, DO NOT RUN IT UNTIL THE TIMING BELT AND TENSIONERS ARE CHECKED.
Is it really something that can be checked? From all I've read, the tensioner can be fine today, but snap on you tomorrow. There's just no warning signs.
Well I mean visual checks. Visually see of the belt has cracks or other signs of wear. If the tensioner is all the way out, your belt has stretched and is in need of replacement. You can tell the tensioner by the style of it. You can use Google for tensioner pictures. The old style never kept enough tension on the belt. Timing belts usually just stretch out and jump teeth or basically dry rot and crack, then break. The top timing belt cover is easily removed, no tools needed, for easy inspection.
 

crw

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 Originally Posted By: BrianWC
I dunno about the BG flush as THE solution. The SAAB master mechanic who has been most proactive in getting REAL solutions out there for the SAAB sludge problem (Chuck Andrews) has steered away from them from what I can tell. I haven't heard exactly why, but when he first got his machine, he was very excited about it. Now not so much. I think he just goes straight to a bit of a tear down and cleaning. I don't know if he wasn't impressed with the results or what. Has anyone got any before/after pics of a BG flushed engine?
There are lots of before and after pics of an Auto-Rx'ed engine. Do some searches here.
 

Yuk

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 Originally Posted By: vwoom
">> And run the larger filter (forgot the part number). Napa 1333."
Are you sure about that number? FleetFilter shows the following for that number:
 Quote:
Applications for part 51333 Make Model Engine PORSCHE 911 SERIES H6 2.2L 2195cc PORSCHE 911 SERIES L6 (ALL) VOLVO 740 SERIES L6 2.4L Diesel VOLVO 760 SERIES L6 2.4L Diesel
 
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