Pao/Dino Blend Brew: You pick

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Ok,I am going to mix a aproximate 30 percent PAO/dino brew for a long run starting March in a city driven car that racks the miles up quick then analize at 6k or above,,it is a 4 quart capacity 1992 Chevy Cavalier that has up to now not used oil to speak of between intervals. The forum as a whole denounces this but ya know what? Dragboat don't care
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So please,, no naysayers in this thread, OK?

The Pao will be Conoco Syncon which is 66vi at 40C and 10.0 @ 100C

or
Amsoil ATM 10/30 which is 69.8 VI @ 40C and 11.90 at 100C

Give me some ideas on which OTC Dino you would like to see used and which of the two synlubes.We are gonna see if 8-10 bucks worth of oil can run with the other formulated oils available at a higher cost just for fun.
 
Greg,read the last three words of my post,,,then factor in the fact that it's because I can
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. No naysayers! Please!
 
Pick some inexpensive sh....I mean oil.
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For the dino: Seriously I would get some overbased oil like Delo 400, or something, even if it is 15W-40.

Leave Mo out of it. Because if by some miracle it lasts, then people won't say "Mo saved yo a$$"...(I always wanted to type that)
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[ February 13, 2003, 02:47 PM: Message edited by: Pablo ]
 
Leaning towards the Drive Clean oil,,and yes no oils with moly in the formulation.Capital idea there Pablo
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The syn? Probably the Amsoil, I suspect it may be better than the Conoco- but that's just my guess.

The dino oil? Pennzoil(avail everywhere, hence more "viewer interest"), or maybe Havoline, Chevron, Mobil Drive Clean, Conoco, or Castrol. Pay your $$, take your choice, have fun, & let us know how it comes out! No guts, no glory, right?
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Go to Walmart blindfolded and just grab whatever you can find!
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Seriously though, I'd go with Mobil 1 for the PAO portion, since it's readily available, and perhaps GTX or Pennzoil for the rest. Make it Pennzoil actually, just so Johnny's kids can continue their college education.
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By the way, since it's a 4qt sump wouldn't it be easier to make it 25% synthetic instead of 30%? 25% would be one quart synth, 3 quarts dino.
 
Would it make sense to pick the dino oil based on the additive package of the synthetic? If you go with Amsoil, possibly a dino oil with a Lubrizol additive package may be a good choice.
 
O.K.-I won't be a naysayer-but it's hard
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I wouod go with a synthetic and a dino of the same brand. Does Conoco Syncon have a dino version?? If not I guess it would be Mobil1 with drive Clean. Have you done a synthetic oil analysis or a dino oil analysis on that vehicle?? If so than go with either the syn or dino that you previously analyzed. Just my $.02
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Dragboat, I would use redline and Chevron Supreme or Delo 10w30 . Pao is just a copy of the best petroleum molecule from what I understand ,so a polyol ester base would make it exciting becaust most synthetic on the market are a cheap and self polluting base 1 oil ond a pao or base 111 oil . but ! lets get kinkey and mix Chevron group111 and Redline or NEO oil . I am getting so excited I am going to use Chevron group111 and Redline oil in my 92 toy truck on the next oil change.
 
It appears that a lot of folks overlooked that you stipulated the two synthetics you would choose from.
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If I were going to do this, I'd use The Conoco Syncon (thought I'm not totally convinced this is a PAO-based oil), with either Motorcraft conventional or Conoco Hydroclear. I think if you stick with the same brand you'll have less chance of "additive clash."
 
quote:

Originally posted by dragboat:
Greg,read the last three words of my post,,,then factor in the fact that it's because I can
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. No naysayers! Please!


You are my hero!

I'm kinda doing the same as we speak (you might remember) 50-50 M1 10W30/15W50.....so far so good....mileage still the same and so is HP (ran a [email protected] on a basically stock engine)
Keep us posted, Rick
 
dragboat ,
Amsoil ATM and Exxon Superflo.
Moly,we don't need no stinkin' moly!
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Mark

[ February 14, 2003, 12:22 AM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
 
I sometimes use 2 quarts of Amsoil mixed with 2-3 quarts of valvoline as a slow acting engine flush in high mileage engines, before running straight Amsoil. I run this mixture for 5k-6k miles, along with one of the high capacity Amsoil oil filters. The solvency of the organic esters in the synthetic do a good job of cleaning up preexisting deposits.

I have to warn you that if you do this in a high mileage engine, you will see elevated levels of oxidation/nitration in the oil analysis as these deposits are put into solution. So I'd dump the first batch after 5000 miles and test the second batch after 5k-8k if you want to see how it's holding up.

Of course you could always run the schaeffers S7000, 15w-40, which is about 1/3 synthetic to begin with, or the Amsoil 15w-40 synblend.
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TooSlick
 
As a struggling graduate engineer, I started running 1 part Mobil 1 (15W-50 back then), with 4 parts Duckhams 15W-50.

Never had a problem.

(that I knew about, i.e. nothing blew up, so I was happy with my blend)

Anyway, David Vizard said home made blends were OK in a few of his books.
 
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