Pao/Dino Blend Brew: You pick

dragboat · Feb 12, 2003

Ok,I am going to mix a aproximate 30 percent PAO/dino brew for a long run starting March in a city driven car that racks the miles up quick then analize at 6k or above,,it is a 4 quart capacity 1992 Chevy Cavalier that has up to now not used oil to speak of between intervals. The forum as a whole denounces this but ya know what? Dragboat don't care

So please,, no naysayers in this thread, OK?

The Pao will be Conoco Syncon which is 66vi at 40C and 10.0 @ 100C

or
Amsoil ATM 10/30 which is 69.8 VI @ 40C and 11.90 at 100C

Give me some ideas on which OTC Dino you would like to see used and which of the two synlubes.We are gonna see if 8-10 bucks worth of oil can run with the other formulated oils available at a higher cost just for fun.

Greg · Feb 12, 2003

dragboat · Feb 12, 2003

Greg,read the last three words of my post,,,then factor in the fact that it's because I can

. No naysayers! Please!

Pablo · Feb 12, 2003

Pick some inexpensive sh....I mean oil.

For the dino: Seriously I would get some overbased oil like Delo 400, or something, even if it is 15W-40.

Leave Mo out of it. Because if by some miracle it lasts, then people won't say "Mo saved yo a$$"...(I always wanted to type that)

[ February 13, 2003, 02:47 PM: Message edited by: Pablo ]

dragboat · Feb 12, 2003

Leaning towards the Drive Clean oil,,and yes no oils with moly in the formulation.Capital idea there Pablo

UncleS2 · Feb 12, 2003

The syn? Probably the Amsoil, I suspect it may be better than the Conoco- but that's just my guess.

The dino oil? Pennzoil(avail everywhere, hence more "viewer interest"), or maybe Havoline, Chevron, Mobil Drive Clean, Conoco, or Castrol. Pay your $$, take your choice, have fun, & let us know how it comes out! No guts, no glory, right?

Patman · Feb 13, 2003

Go to Walmart blindfolded and just grab whatever you can find!

Seriously though, I'd go with Mobil 1 for the PAO portion, since it's readily available, and perhaps GTX or Pennzoil for the rest. Make it Pennzoil actually, just so Johnny's kids can continue their college education.

Patman · Feb 13, 2003

By the way, since it's a 4qt sump wouldn't it be easier to make it 25% synthetic instead of 30%? 25% would be one quart synth, 3 quarts dino.

Scooter · Feb 13, 2003

Would it make sense to pick the dino oil based on the additive package of the synthetic? If you go with Amsoil, possibly a dino oil with a Lubrizol additive package may be a good choice.

Al · Feb 13, 2003

O.K.-I won't be a naysayer-but it's hard

I wouod go with a synthetic and a dino of the same brand. Does Conoco Syncon have a dino version?? If not I guess it would be Mobil1 with drive Clean. Have you done a synthetic oil analysis or a dino oil analysis on that vehicle?? If so than go with either the syn or dino that you previously analyzed. Just my $.02

Steve S · Feb 13, 2003

Dragboat, I would use redline and Chevron Supreme or Delo 10w30 . Pao is just a copy of the best petroleum molecule from what I understand ,so a polyol ester base would make it exciting becaust most synthetic on the market are a cheap and self polluting base 1 oil ond a pao or base 111 oil . but ! lets get kinkey and mix Chevron group111 and Redline or NEO oil . I am getting so excited I am going to use Chevron group111 and Redline oil in my 92 toy truck on the next oil change.

joee12 · Feb 13, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by dragboat:
Leaning towards the Drive Clean oil,,and yes no oils with moly in the formulation.Capital idea there Pablo

I second that vote! -Joe

novadude · Feb 13, 2003

I like the Idea of 3 qts of Drive Clean mixed with 1 qt of Mobil 1. Common Wal-Mart oils that anyone can find almost anywhere.

G-MAN · Feb 13, 2003

It appears that a lot of folks overlooked that you stipulated the two synthetics you would choose from.

If I were going to do this, I'd use The Conoco Syncon (thought I'm not totally convinced this is a PAO-based oil), with either Motorcraft conventional or Conoco Hydroclear. I think if you stick with the same brand you'll have less chance of "additive clash."

Neil Womack · Feb 13, 2003

This is where your 0w-40 John Deere oil comes in.

1 qt JD 3 qts what ever.

Last_Z · Feb 13, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by dragboat:
Greg,read the last three words of my post,,,then factor in the fact that it's because I can

. No naysayers! Please!

You are my hero!

I'm kinda doing the same as we speak (you might remember) 50-50 M1 10W30/15W50.....so far so good....mileage still the same and so is HP (ran a [email protected] on a basically stock engine)
Keep us posted, Rick

GROUCHO MARX · Feb 13, 2003

Dragboat, you mad scientist.
My vote is for the Wal-Mart Super-Tech that Patman would not put in his lawnmower.

rugerman1 · Feb 13, 2003

dragboat ,
Amsoil ATM and Exxon Superflo.
Moly,we don't need no stinkin' moly!

Mark

[ February 14, 2003, 12:22 AM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]

TooSlick · Feb 13, 2003

I sometimes use 2 quarts of Amsoil mixed with 2-3 quarts of valvoline as a slow acting engine flush in high mileage engines, before running straight Amsoil. I run this mixture for 5k-6k miles, along with one of the high capacity Amsoil oil filters. The solvency of the organic esters in the synthetic do a good job of cleaning up preexisting deposits.

I have to warn you that if you do this in a high mileage engine, you will see elevated levels of oxidation/nitration in the oil analysis as these deposits are put into solution. So I'd dump the first batch after 5000 miles and test the second batch after 5k-8k if you want to see how it's holding up.

Of course you could always run the schaeffers S7000, 15w-40, which is about 1/3 synthetic to begin with, or the Amsoil 15w-40 synblend.

TooSlick

Shannow · Feb 13, 2003

As a struggling graduate engineer, I started running 1 part Mobil 1 (15W-50 back then), with 4 parts Duckhams 15W-50.

Never had a problem.

(that I knew about, i.e. nothing blew up, so I was happy with my blend)

Anyway, David Vizard said home made blends were OK in a few of his books.

Pao/Dino Blend Brew: You pick

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