Pan drop and fill, 4t65e 2001 Grand Prix SE

[mrbreezeet1]

Thought I'd just start my own thread, instead of piggybacking on another thread.
Been a member a while here, 1st time post though.
Getting ready to do the pan drop and fill to mine in the spring. 2001 GP with the 3.1 motor, 4t65e trans, 107,500 miles, service unknown. I've had it about 1 1/2 years, noticed a bit of a hard 1-2 & 2-3 shift after about 10 miles of driving. Not neck jarring or anything, but noticeable.
First drive of the day, back to being ok, till about 10 miles again. Figured I had the PO1811 max adapt code, advance auto scan confirmed.
Also got the Transgo SK 4T65E shift kit, 12 quarts of NAPA Dexton III, two new magnets, The Sonnax 84532-01K Transmission Lube Tube Retainer kit, and the updated differential lube tube ACDelco Transmission Fluid Line 24243134, and a bottle of Lubegard.
So looking forward to doing the job, as the car is in pretty good shape, and I'd like to keep it.
Those that have done the shift kit, did you scuff the cylinder walls when you did the kit, as some say yes, and some say no. IIRC the paper with the kit does say to do so. Also, did you put new piston seals, or just use the old ones? I also read where I should disconnect the battery for about a half hour, in order to let the PCM relearn the shift perimeters.
Can anyone think of anything I might be missing?
Thanks to all.

​

 

[GON]

Thought I'd just start my own thread, instead of piggybacking on another thread.
Been a member a while here, 1st time post though.
Getting ready to do the pan drop and fill to mine in the spring. 2001 GP with the 3.1 motor, 4t65e trans, 107,500 miles, service unknown. I've had it about 1 1/2 years, noticed a bit of a hard 1-2 & 2-3 shift after about 10 miles of driving. Not neck jarring or anything, but noticeable.
First drive of the day, back to being ok, till about 10 miles again. Figured I had the PO1811 max adapt code, advance auto scan confirmed.
Also got the Transgo SK 4T65E shift kit, 12 quarts of NAPA Dexton III, two new magnets, The Sonnax 84532-01K Transmission Lube Tube Retainer kit, and the updated differential lube tube ACDelco Transmission Fluid Line 24243134, and a bottle of Lubegard.
So looking forward to doing the job, as the car is in pretty good shape, and I'd like to keep it.
Those that have done the shift kit, did you scuff the cylinder walls when you did the kit, as some say yes, and some say no. IIRC the paper with the kit does say to do so. Also, did you put new piston seals, or just use the old ones? I also read where I should disconnect the battery for about a half hour, in order to let the PCM relearn the shift perimeters.
Can anyone think of anything I might be missing?
Thanks to all.

​

Sounds good. I did a like service to include the shiftkit on a like problem on a 2001 Bonneville. The only difference, I used DEX VI instead of DEX III. That trans listed for years with the DEX VI.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Sounds good. I did a like service to include the shift kit on a like problem on a 2001 Bonneville. The only difference, I used DEX VI instead of DEX III. That trans listed for years with the DEX VI.

Thanks Gon.
Good to hear it went well for you!
I know, there is a lot of controversy on the "Dex III vs. Dex VI" topic.
Car runs like a top, and no/never any slip bang from the transmission coming away from a light, so I'm hoping for success with the max adapt issue!
I'm 67 years old and trying to keep the car indefinitely.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Did you get a new pan? There are aftermarket pans for the 4T65 that include a drain plug, so you'll never have to drop the pan again

Sometimes they include a gasket, but their included gaskets usually suck, so use a Fel-Pro or OEM gasket with the aftermarket pan.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Did you get a new pan? There are aftermarket pans for the 4T65 that include a drain plug, so you'll never have to drop the pan again

Sometimes they include a gasket, but their included gaskets usually suck, so use a Fel-Pro or OEM gasket with the aftermarket pan.

Thanks "Slacktide"
Thinking about it for sure. You don't worry about changing the filter or did/do you install an in-line filter in the cooler return line?
I'd like to have the ZZP pan with the cooling fins, but it runs ~$150.00.

 

[Lubener]

I would also get the updated pan magnet that was suggested in a TSB. GM part number is 29535617. I believe the TSB suggests using two and states where in the pan to place them. I might be wrong so I suggest you research before buying. I used Filtran filters because they were still made in USA. I would also stick with the DEX 3 which you have. DEX 6 lasts longer and supercides DEX 3. However, when I changed over to DEX 6, I began to get harsh shifts when the transmission got warmed up. Maybe because DEX 6 is thinner. If you change the fluid every 30-40k, DEX 3 will hold up fine.My 4T65E shifted better after going back with DEX 3. Also, if you get a new pan with a drain plug, that is not reason to ignore dropping the pan to change the filter. It helps make periodic changes less messy before dropping the pan to change the filter, clean the pan and its magnet. If you still have the OEM pan gasket, it is designed to be reusable and is better than aftermarket ones.

 

[Trav]

Thought I'd just start my own thread, instead of piggybacking on another thread.
Been a member a while here, 1st time post though.
Getting ready to do the pan drop and fill to mine in the spring. 2001 GP with the 3.1 motor, 4t65e trans, 107,500 miles, service unknown. I've had it about 1 1/2 years, noticed a bit of a hard 1-2 & 2-3 shift after about 10 miles of driving. Not neck jarring or anything, but noticeable.
First drive of the day, back to being ok, till about 10 miles again. Figured I had the PO1811 max adapt code, advance auto scan confirmed.
Also got the Transgo SK 4T65E shift kit, 12 quarts of NAPA Dexton III, two new magnets, The Sonnax 84532-01K Transmission Lube Tube Retainer kit, and the updated differential lube tube ACDelco Transmission Fluid Line 24243134, and a bottle of Lubegard.
So looking forward to doing the job, as the car is in pretty good shape, and I'd like to keep it.
Those that have done the shift kit, did you scuff the cylinder walls when you did the kit, as some say yes, and some say no. IIRC the paper with the kit does say to do so. Also, did you put new piston seals, or just use the old ones? I also read where I should disconnect the battery for about a half hour, in order to let the PCM relearn the shift perimeters.
Can anyone think of anything I might be missing?
Thanks to all.

​

No need to replace the pan or the gasket, the OE gasket can be reused a few times. When I put one of these kits in I check the piston bores for excess wear and any scoring, replace the gasket and seals and scuff the bores with ultra fine, you must clean it well and lube it (I use Vaseline) afterwards. Use the line clamp and make sure the differential lube tube is firmly in place above (it uses a little click clamp) when you install the accumulator tubes.

Before dropping the pan, remove the line bracket bolt (14mm head IIRC) on the upper left side of the trans, the remove the lower line (the one that goes straight in) by removing the circlip and pulling it straight back and attach a piece of clear tubing to the line and put it in a drain pan, start the engine, run it until you just see a few bubbles in the tube then turn it off and remove the almost empty pan and do the work.

With it all together except for the line fill with 6 qts of fluid and run the engine again to pump out 4 more qts, refill and repeat. Reattach the line and fill the unit to the cold mark, get it warmed up to normal operating temp then check the fluid hot. I use Mobil Delvac 1 ATF in dex III units, it works very well. This is from one place but you can find the parts in many places.

Sonnax Lube Tube Retainer Kit

One concern area of the 4T60E and 4T65E transmissions is the lube supply tube coming out of the lower accumulator body and then you lose rear geartrain lube. Sonnax offers this easy to install lube tube retainer kit to address the problem and prevents the lube tube from falling out as it firmly...

tripleedgeperformance.com

4T65E Lower Accumulator Body Gasket and Seal Kit

A must have gasket and seal kit for Shift Kit installations! This special gasket and seal kit includes: Lower accumulator body gasket/plate Accumulator piston seals Servo housing to case o-ring Also included is a strip of Scotchbrite pad to scuff the bores of the accumulator body.

tripleedgeperformance.com

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Thanks "Slacktide"
Thinking about it for sure. You don't worry about changing the filter or did/do you install an in-line filter in the cooler return line?
I'd like to have the ZZP pan with the cooling fins, but it runs ~$150.00.

There is no need to change the filter. Even in cars that use a spin-on transmission filter, you only have to replace it if it's damaged.

You don't have to spend $150 on a pan. Even the SKP pan for $14 on Rock Auto will do the job. The fins aren't really that necessary, especially if you change the ATF often, which you'll be able to do with the drain plug.

 

[Trav]

This one is worth changing, it is not a rock catcher but has filter media. Use an OE or made in USA filter with a new seal.
No need to replace the pan, use a high quality fluid and do a line off. No point in wasting money and fluid on almost useless spill and fill.

4T65E Filter

The filters we offer are either USA made Allomatic filters or OE type SPX/Filtran filters depending on availability. This filter will fit all GM 4T60E/65E and Volvo 4T65EV/GT transmissions.

tripleedgeperformance.com

 

[JustinH]

Our friends mom had this car when we were kids. I'm 40 now.

This was one of the coolest cars to have back in the day. I never see them around, they must have rotted away.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Our friends mom had this car when we were kids. I'm 40 now.

This was one of the coolest cars to have back in the day. I never see them around, they must have rotted away.

Wish l was still 40

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Thanks guys, I'll get back to you all in a bit with possible questions and comments.
Well while I'm here, @ Lubener, I do have the magnets, and yes, one goes where the OEM one was, and one sticks to the metal part of the bottom of the filter. Good to know about your positive experience with the DEX III.
@ Trav, I have to see what filter I have down there, I know I got it at NAPA.
I'll let you all know.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

No need to replace the pan or the gasket, the OE gasket can be reused a few times. When I put one of these kits in I check the piston bores for excess wear and any scoring, replace the gasket and seals and scuff the bores with ultra fine, you must clean it well and lube it (I use Vaseline) afterwards. Use the line clamp and make sure the differential lube tube is firmly in place above (it uses a little click clamp) when you install the accumulator tubes.

Before dropping the pan, remove the line bracket bolt (14mm head IIRC) on the upper left side of the trans, the remove the lower line (the one that goes straight in) by removing the circlip and pulling it straight back and attach a piece of clear tubing to the line and put it in a drain pan, start the engine, run it until you just see a few bubbles in the tube then turn it off and remove the almost empty pan and do the work.

With it all together except for the line fill with 6 qts of fluid and run the engine again to pump out 4 more qts, refill and repeat. Reattach the line and fill the unit to the cold mark, get it warmed up to normal operating temp then check the fluid hot. I use Mobil Delvac 1 ATF in dex III units, it works very well. This is from one place but you can find the parts in many places.

Sonnax Lube Tube Retainer Kit

One concern area of the 4T60E and 4T65E transmissions is the lube supply tube coming out of the lower accumulator body and then you lose rear geartrain lube. Sonnax offers this easy to install lube tube retainer kit to address the problem and prevents the lube tube from falling out as it firmly...

tripleedgeperformance.com

https://tripleedgeperformance.com/online-store/ols/products/4t65e-lower--body-gasket-and-seal-kit

So do you recommend a new differential lube tube along with the sonnax lube tube retainer kit?
Rock Auto has the differential lube tube for about $8.00 shipped.
There is a seller on ebay that has the sonnax retainer kit for under $3.00 shipped.
And I should automatically replace the seals and the plate gasket in the accumulator?
I still have to check on what filter I have downstairs.
So are you saying just change the filter when I do the shift kit, and don't worry about it after that, just flush it via the cooler lines?
TBH I'd be lucky to put another 40,000 miles on this car.

EDIT
I went down to look at the filter, I can't find it at the moment. I'll have to look better tomorrow when I can open the door to get over in the one corner.
I found the recipt, it's a ATP 19727. Are they any good? Trouble is without seeing it. IDK if it's a metal bottom to stick a magnet to, or all plastic? Going to try to google that number now.
Oh, so the LOWER cooler line is the return?

Thank You

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Our friends mom had this car when we were kids. I'm 40 now.

This was one of the coolest cars to have back in the day. I never see them around, they must have rotted away.

Not the SE 4 door like mine, but they have them with a V8 and the 3800 with a Super Charger too.
They are supposed to run out pretty good. Mine is the 3.1 It's a daily (2-3 times a week now) driver.
The V8 has a heavy-duty transmission too!

 

[mrbreezeet1]

So do you recommend a new differential lube tube along with the sonnax lube tube retainer kit?
Rock Auto has the differential lube tube for about $8.00 shipped.
There is a seller on ebay that has the sonnax retainer kit for under $3.00 shipped.
And I should automatically replace the seals and the plate gasket in the accumulator?
I still have to check on what filter I have downstairs.
So are you saying just change the filter when I do the shift kit, and don't worry about it after that, just flush it via the cooler lines?
TBH I'd be lucky to put another 40,000 miles on this car.

EDIT
I went down to look at the filter, I can't find it at the moment. I'll have to look better tomorrow when I can open the door to get over in the one corner.
I found the recipt, it's a ATP 19727. Are they any good? Trouble is without seeing it. IDK if it's a metal bottom to stick a magnet to, or all plastic? Going to try to google that number now.
Oh, so the LOWER cooler line is the return?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ EDITED,

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I found it online, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ATP19727
Looks like a metal bottom, best I can tell.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Sonnax 84532-01K Transmission Lube Tube Retainer (Differential) 4T60E 4T65E
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113886839187 $2.63 plus tax, free shipping.

 

[Lubener]

So do you recommend a new differential lube tube along with the sonnax lube tube retainer kit?
Rock Auto has the differential lube tube for about $8.00 shipped.
There is a seller on ebay that has the sonnax retainer kit for under $3.00 shipped.
And I should automatically replace the seals and the plate gasket in the accumulator?
I still have to check on what filter I have downstairs.
So are you saying just change the filter when I do the shift kit, and don't worry about it after that, just flush it via the cooler lines?
TBH I'd be lucky to put another 40,000 miles on this car.

EDIT
I went down to look at the filter, I can't find it at the moment. I'll have to look better tomorrow when I can open the door to get over in the one corner.
I found the recipt, it's a ATP 19727. Are they any good? Trouble is without seeing it. IDK if it's a metal bottom to stick a magnet to, or all plastic? Going to try to google that number now.
Oh, so the LOWER cooler line is the return?

You only need the clamp to hold the diff. tube in place, no need to change the tube. I didn't replace the tube, just installed the Sonnax clamp. ATP makes good stuff but like everything else, the filter likely is Chinese made. I would use it. Whenever I dropped the pan, a new filter went back on. If you go through the trouble of dropping the pan, it made no sense leaving the old filter in there to save twelve bucks or so. Just make sure you get the seal off with your old fileter or you have to snag it out of the valve body. .I did purchase a Dorman pan for my 4T65E but returned it because I was not impressed with it. It appeared slightly shallower and didn't lay flat on a flat surface. Knowing that the 4T65E is not the greatest transmission, I got ambitious and also installed a Hayden transmission cooler in front of the condenser.

 

[Trav]

So do you recommend a new differential lube tube along with the sonnax lube tube retainer kit?
Rock Auto has the differential lube tube for about $8.00 shipped.
There is a seller on ebay that has the sonnax retainer kit for under $3.00 shipped.
And I should automatically replace the seals and the plate gasket in the accumulator?
I still have to check on what filter I have downstairs.
So are you saying just change the filter when I do the shift kit, and don't worry about it after that, just flush it via the cooler lines?
TBH I'd be lucky to put another 40,000 miles on this car.

EDIT
I went down to look at the filter, I can't find it at the moment. I'll have to look better tomorrow when I can open the door to get over in the one corner.
I found the recipt, it's a ATP 19727. Are they any good? Trouble is without seeing it. IDK if it's a metal bottom to stick a magnet to, or all plastic? Going to try to google that number now.
Oh, so the LOWER cooler line is the return?

You do not need a new tube just the Sonnax retainer, I would replace the gasket and accumulator seals. The ATP should be okay to use, you can reuse the original gasket, it is rubber coated steel and better than a rubber or fiber replacement.
I did a write up years ago, it may help, there is a link to the magnet pdf.

Pan Drop or Fluid Through Dipstick

First thing is to get the parts and fluid you will need for the $t65E the accumulator for the 4L60E is different. This will give you a US made filter, accumulator kit with the seals and gasket you need. http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.com/4T65E-Shift-Kit-Combo-Kit-4T65E-SKCK.htm Get these in...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[mrbreezeet1]

You only need the clamp to hold the diff. tube in place, no need to change the tube. I didn't replace the tube, just installed the Sonnax clamp. ATP makes good stuff but like everything else, the filter likely is Chinese made. I would use it. Whenever I dropped the pan, a new filter went back on. If you go through the trouble of dropping the pan, it made no sense leaving the old filter in there to save twelve bucks or so. Just make sure you get the seal off with your old filter or you have to snag it out of the valve body. .I did purchase a Dorman pan for my 4T65E but returned it because I was not impressed with it. It appeared slightly shallower and didn't lay flat on a flat surface. Knowing that the 4T65E is not the greatest transmission, I got ambitious and also installed a Hayden transmission cooler in front of the condenser. (Good Idea!!!!!)

Yeah.......................I really didn't think I needed a new tube, but I did order it from rock auto last night, closer to $10.00 shipped.
Yes, I'll replace the filter anytime I drop the pan. I understand a cooler IS a good idea too. Thinking about that too.
Did you bypass the factory cooler, or run it in serries with your Hayden cooler?
Not splitting hairs with your post, but that filter was $17.00 over the counter from NAPA last year, do you know the website shows it at $24.00 now!!