Need some info on this before I go to the dealer and they don't make me think what I don't want to think. My wife got caught in that nasty storm in OKC last night and literally beat the living #ell out of our 02 Accord. I thought I was going to cry. The hood, trunk, roof and side panels look like someone took golfballs and used a 3 wood to target practise on the car. Some of that hail was 3 feet thick. Never seen it that bad in all the years I've lived in Oklahoma. Anyway, what should I know if I let them talk me into paintless dent repair? As far as I can tell, there are no creases in the paint, no paint missing. I know I am the customer and I'd prefer new parts since they'll probably raise my rates any way. Does that stuff really work? I mean, can I get this immaculate Accord back to showroom conditions using this process or is it better to replace, primer and re-paint the whole thing? I really haven't had much experience with this and anything ya'll could educate me on, I'd dang sure appreciate it!!!!
paintless dent repair
- Thread starter Schmoe
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Shmoe, from what I have heard it is very effective. The caveat to this, I believe, would be multiple dents in the same area as you have described.
The dirty little truth is that only the very best refinish paint jobs approach the OEM paint. I would walk away from any used car that had been repainted. Like anything else, too often a refinish job skimps on material and preparation. If the OEM paint can be saved, go for it.
I see too many refinish jobs peeling or fading after a few years. Three years from now it may look better after a not quite perfect paintless repair than a refinish that looks flawless when you drive it home. Also the thicker the paint, the worse it chips.
I am basing this on what I learned a long time ago working for Rinshead Mason, a leading supplier to body shops, and what I see on the streets now. I am sure they have great materials available now, but may not use the best or cut corners.
I see too many refinish jobs peeling or fading after a few years. Three years from now it may look better after a not quite perfect paintless repair than a refinish that looks flawless when you drive it home. Also the thicker the paint, the worse it chips.
I am basing this on what I learned a long time ago working for Rinshead Mason, a leading supplier to body shops, and what I see on the streets now. I am sure they have great materials available now, but may not use the best or cut corners.
I've had this done several times to my black Chevy with great results. You'd never be able to tell it was ever dented or even worked on. Of course, I'm just talking about door dings, I've never had anything as severe as what you're talking about, but I would say it's certainly worth a shot if the technician is up to the job.
BTW, most dealerships outsource that job. In other words, someone specializing in paintless dent repair stops by once a week to take care of any work they have, then moves on to the next dealer. It might be worth checking out a few dealers to see who they use and what kind of results they have so you can contact the person directly. You might even be able to get a better deal that way. They usually charge by the dent (about $20 per, IIRC).
BTW, most dealerships outsource that job. In other words, someone specializing in paintless dent repair stops by once a week to take care of any work they have, then moves on to the next dealer. It might be worth checking out a few dealers to see who they use and what kind of results they have so you can contact the person directly. You might even be able to get a better deal that way. They usually charge by the dent (about $20 per, IIRC).
I agree with everything that has been said here, including labman's comments on aftermarket paint. My reading and experience on the paint is that OEM chemistry and process is completely different from the refinish industry, with no comparison in the performance.
The big thing with paintless dent repair is whether access to the dent is possible, whether the metal has been creased, and possibly the depth of the damage.
I have had one ding removed. The tech said he couldn't promise perfect results, but that is what he delivered. I was charged $75 for that, but was offered a repeat customer price of $60 per for some others.
Like anything else, not all technicians are equal, so if you can get references from friends it would be advisable.
The big thing with paintless dent repair is whether access to the dent is possible, whether the metal has been creased, and possibly the depth of the damage.
I have had one ding removed. The tech said he couldn't promise perfect results, but that is what he delivered. I was charged $75 for that, but was offered a repeat customer price of $60 per for some others.
Like anything else, not all technicians are equal, so if you can get references from friends it would be advisable.
Just did a quick internet search and found some interesting stuff on PDR. The more surprising one was that if you use PDR, eventually, the paint will bubble and rust will develope underneath. Basically, the paint already has been damaged because paint isn't really flexible. There are hundreds of micro cracks in those dents that you can't see with the naked eye. With time, those cracks let in moisture and then rusts starts, next the paint bubbles up, etc. etc. you get the picture. Makes sense to me. May opt for total replacement on this.
The comment that paint isn't flexible, is partially true, but not totally. It is very much a matter of degree. Paint formulations have gotten much more flexible over the last twenty or so years. Whether it is enought to adapt to your deep dents is unknown. Care of the paint has a lot to do with its condition, regular waxing restores the oils and helps keep the paint "alive" and flexible.
If you are going off the post on the F150 board, note that the car in question was an older car, maybe not using current paint technology, and the poster basicly admitted he wasn't an impartial participant.
As for my own experience, the repair is within a couple of months of being five years old, and still looks perfect. If you are really worried about rust, have a longstanding, reputable body shop do the work and guarantee it. That way you will have the best of all worlds. The worst that could happen would be a repaint somewhere down the road.
[ April 22, 2004, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: TooManyWheels ]
If you are going off the post on the F150 board, note that the car in question was an older car, maybe not using current paint technology, and the poster basicly admitted he wasn't an impartial participant.
As for my own experience, the repair is within a couple of months of being five years old, and still looks perfect. If you are really worried about rust, have a longstanding, reputable body shop do the work and guarantee it. That way you will have the best of all worlds. The worst that could happen would be a repaint somewhere down the road.
[ April 22, 2004, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: TooManyWheels ]
Thanks. That is in fact where I got the micro scratch information. Just got back from a good body shop that has USAA insurance blessings. They couldn't do PDR on the hood, roof and trunk. Fenders, they could and they were pretty small. Heck, I didn't even notice them until they pointed them out. Anyway, new hood and trunk, pull the headliner out and get all they can out and fill and sand the rest then paint it all. Total: 3100. Can you say O-U-C-H! Have a 500 deductible, but dang!!! Hope they don't crank my rates up too much because I know they will have hundreds of claims here in the next couple of days.
My sympathies, Schmoe.
It hailed for a solid twenty minutes here in downtown Fort Smith Wednesday afternoon - started small, worked it's way up to golf ball size and ocassionally bigger, before petering out. The ground was completely covered with ice.
Other parts of town didn't even receive rain ....
It beat the snot out of one of my cars too .....
Schmoe,
I was caught in a hail storm 1.5 years ago and it left 700 or so little dings in my car. Some of them you can barely find unless the light hit the car at just the right angle.
Anyways, I've heard lots of stories about PDR and quality can vary greatly. So I called up my service advisor at my dealer and asked him who they used to get the dings out of their high end cars (Ferraris, Porsches). He gave me the name of the guy. I called the guy and set up an appointment with him. Then I called my insurance company to make sure they would cover it. The guy did the work and the results are truly miraculous....he took everything out including door dings I had previously. The car looks brand new to this day.
What I would do is call up a high end car dealer and find out who they use and then use that guy, providing your insurance will cover it.
BTW, State Farm did not raise my rates since the damage was "an act of God" and not my fault.
I was caught in a hail storm 1.5 years ago and it left 700 or so little dings in my car. Some of them you can barely find unless the light hit the car at just the right angle.
Anyways, I've heard lots of stories about PDR and quality can vary greatly. So I called up my service advisor at my dealer and asked him who they used to get the dings out of their high end cars (Ferraris, Porsches). He gave me the name of the guy. I called the guy and set up an appointment with him. Then I called my insurance company to make sure they would cover it. The guy did the work and the results are truly miraculous....he took everything out including door dings I had previously. The car looks brand new to this day.
What I would do is call up a high end car dealer and find out who they use and then use that guy, providing your insurance will cover it.
BTW, State Farm did not raise my rates since the damage was "an act of God" and not my fault.
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