OW/40- What applications is it good for.

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Just wondering if a car calls for 0W20 up to a 10W30, why would you ever need a 40 weight oil. What applications is it designed for? My car currently takes 10W/30 but I run a 0W/30 currently in the Winter months. Truthfully speaking, probably don't even need the 0 rated oil in my climate. But it does get down to zero in some days of the month( Just to Clarify).
 
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Most 0w-40 oils are designed to meet stringent Euro mfg specs that require high HT/HS (above 3.5 cP) and low Noack. I would say that you can safely use it in other applications too, although if your engine mfg does not call for it, there may not be much benefit to it. Instead, your MPG may slightly suffer.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Tu4rbochared engines and 0-40 M1 are perfect.
How about a 5.7 Liter Hemi.
 
Im going to give it a try in my 4.0 I6 jeep for a few reasons. I want an oil with a good amount of ZDDP I want an oil with great Cold weather flow My jeeps manual asks for 10w-30 but alot of us jeep owners use a 40 weight, well the 0w-40 is a thinner 40 weight so it fits my viscosity needs perfectly. I want a synthetic oil that will help clean my engine and last atleast 7500 miles and I wanted it to be available at walmart. I have tried Mobil 1 tdt with good luck so i figured why not try 0w-40.
 
If your engine calls for a 40wt then use 0-40. If your engine calls for a 30 wt then 0-30 as you are doing. If your hemi calls for a 20wt then use 0-20.
 
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Since the supercharger install I use M1 0W-40 in my Marauder... It'll push 10psi boost at a lazy 2500 RPMs, which is shear territory for about any oil, wanted more cushin' for the pushin'...
 
Check out Mystic 0w-40 snthetic at VIP for 4.99 qt. It should be more loaded than any API SM on the market. 40 weight >3,5 HTHS is for high output engines where driver will USE the high output regularly - unlike you American Sluggards and Sloths so pervasive on my trodden path. I Would runit in a Toyota 2AZ motor which is hiogh output NA. a 340HP 4.9 ford would be high output - right? Same specific output on the Toyota.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Check out Mystic 0w-40 snthetic at VIP for 4.99 qt. It should be more loaded than any API SM on the market. 40 weight >3,5 HTHS is for high output engines where driver will USE the high output regularly - unlike you American Sluggards and Sloths so pervasive on my trodden path. I Would runit in a Toyota 2AZ motor which is hiogh output NA. a 340HP 4.9 ford would be high output - right? Same specific output on the Toyota.
Are you talking about the ATV oil??????
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
If your engine calls for a 40wt then use 0-40. If your engine calls for a 30 wt then 0-30 as you are doing. If your hemi calls for a 20wt then use 0-20.
Lets not confuse the issue with some sensible talk here! Since there is only one OTC 0W-30 in the States; namely M1 0W-30, which the OP is using, lets talk about that oil specifically. In the OP's climate their really isn't any cold start advantage to using it over any typical 5W-30 synthetic. By the same token, there's absolutely no reason not to use it in the summer months vs the spec' 10W-30 dino.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: tig1
If your engine calls for a 40wt then use 0-40. If your engine calls for a 30 wt then 0-30 as you are doing. If your hemi calls for a 20wt then use 0-20.
Lets not confuse the issue with some sensible talk here! Since there is only one OTC 0W-30 in the States; namely M1 0W-30, which the OP is using, lets talk about that oil specifically. In the OP's climate their really isn't any cold start advantage to using it over any typical 5W-30 synthetic. By the same token, there's absolutely no reason not to use it in the summer months vs the spec' 10W-30 dino.
With that said the 0wt will protect as well or better on any cold engine start regardless of the air temp. That's one reason many Euro engines require 0-40 oils in all climates. Also many Asian engines now require 0-20 oils if the vehicle will be driven in Arizona or Alaska. 10 years from now most engines may require 0wt oils, which will be mostly synthetic. Also I was not aware that M1 was the only 0-30 in the US. What about Castrol, Valvo, Pennz?
 
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Thanks guys for all the advice, I appreciate it. I understand the Ow/30 is pretty much good all year around. The only reason I drifted from using it more is, I did one OCI past 10,000 on Mobil EP and I like a little more wiggle room than the OW/30 would give me.
 
0w-40 is meant for boosted and high hp/high rev motors. Provides a thicker cushion at temp on all the moving parts. Slightly less mpg for substantially more protection.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Check out Mystic 0w-40 snthetic at VIP for 4.99 qt. It should be more loaded than any API SM on the market. 40 weight >3,5 HTHS is for high output engines where driver will USE the high output regularly - unlike you American Sluggards and Sloths so pervasive on my trodden path. I Would runit in a Toyota 2AZ motor which is hiogh output NA. a 340HP 4.9 ford would be high output - right? Same specific output on the Toyota.
Are you talking about the ATV oil??????
Snowmobile oil. And you cant use that in a car? The picture of the vehicle on the oil bottle is NOT the oil spec. It's API SL. Like many excellent (and BETTER than ILSAC GXX) Motorcycle oils meet (now superceded) API-SG due to high % DP + ADDS. If my cars were not under warranty Im sure theyd live LONGER with properly additised lubricants other than the low rank global spec current ILSAC swill available OTC. Converter life: the bane of my existence!
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Check out Mystic 0w-40 snthetic at VIP for 4.99 qt. It should be more loaded than any API SM on the market. 40 weight >3,5 HTHS is for high output engines where driver will USE the high output regularly - unlike you American Sluggards and Sloths so pervasive on my trodden path. I Would runit in a Toyota 2AZ motor which is hiogh output NA. a 340HP 4.9 ford would be high output - right? Same specific output on the Toyota.
Are you talking about the ATV oil??????
Snowmobile oil. And you cant use that in a car? The picture of the vehicle on the oil bottle is NOT the oil spec. It's API SL. Like many excellent (and BETTER than ILSAC GXX) Motorcycle oils meet (now superceded) API-SG due to high % DP + ADDS. If my cars were not under warranty Im sure theyd live LONGER with properly additised lubricants other than the low rank global spec current ILSAC swill available OTC. Converter life: the bane of my existence!
Well, considering it has a 200C flash point versus M1 0w40's 230C flash point and having a cSt of 93 at 40C versus 75 for Mobil's offering I'm curious as to what you think you are actually gaining here other than a more volatile oil of a relatively unknown quality, with no factory certifications for automotive applications.
 
Originally Posted By: Topo
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Tu4rbochared engines and 0-40 M1 are perfect.
How about a 5.7 Liter Hemi.
You never know until you try it, I bet it would like it.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Check out Mystic 0w-40 snthetic at VIP for 4.99 qt. It should be more loaded than any API SM on the market. 40 weight >3,5 HTHS is for high output engines where driver will USE the high output regularly - unlike you American Sluggards and Sloths so pervasive on my trodden path. I Would runit in a Toyota 2AZ motor which is hiogh output NA. a 340HP 4.9 ford would be high output - right? Same specific output on the Toyota.
Are you talking about the ATV oil??????
Snowmobile oil. And you cant use that in a car? The picture of the vehicle on the oil bottle is NOT the oil spec. It's API SL. Like many excellent (and BETTER than ILSAC GXX) Motorcycle oils meet (now superceded) API-SG due to high % DP + ADDS. If my cars were not under warranty Im sure theyd live LONGER with properly additised lubricants other than the low rank global spec current ILSAC swill available OTC. Converter life: the bane of my existence!
Well, considering it has a 200C flash point versus M1 0w40's 230C flash point and having a cSt of 93 at 40C versus 75 for Mobil's offering I'm curious as to what you think you are actually gaining here other than a more volatile oil of a relatively unknown quality, with no factory certifications for automotive applications.
Correction to the above, apparently the PDS differs from the MSDS in terms of the spec's given. My apologies for misrepresenting this product. It actually looks pretty good! crzy Specs are:
Code:
Gravity, ASTM D 287, °API 33.8
Density, lbs/gal 7.13
Flash Point, ASTM D 92, COC, °F (°C) 428 (220)
Pour Point, ASTM D 97, °F (°C) –56 (–51)
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40°C 93
cSt @ 100°C 14.8
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 166
CCS Viscosity, cP (°C), ASTM D 5293 6000 (–35)
NOACK Volatility, ASTM D 5800, % Loss 7
Color, ASTM D 1500 2.5
Sulfated Ash, ASTM D 874, m% 0.9
TBN, ASTM D 2896, mg KOH/g 9.5
It has a lower flash by 10 degrees than M1 0w40. It also doesn't list the -40C MRV, which would be useful. And of course no HTHS frown However, the NOACK is impressive! thumbsup The VI could be better however. It looks like a decent oil but I can't see any reason to use it over other good 0w40's like PC Duron-E 0w40, or M1 0w40.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: tig1
If your engine calls for a 40wt then use 0-40. If your engine calls for a 30 wt then 0-30 as you are doing. If your hemi calls for a 20wt then use 0-20.
Lets not confuse the issue with some sensible talk here! Since there is only one OTC 0W-30 in the States; namely M1 0W-30, which the OP is using, lets talk about that oil specifically. In the OP's climate their really isn't any cold start advantage to using it over any typical 5W-30 synthetic. By the same token, there's absolutely no reason not to use it in the summer months vs the spec' 10W-30 dino.
With that said the 0wt will protect as well or better on any cold engine start regardless of the air temp. That's one reason many Euro engines require 0-40 oils in all climates. Also many Asian engines now require 0-20 oils if the vehicle will be driven in Arizona or Alaska. 10 years from now most engines may require 0wt oils, which will be mostly synthetic. Also I was not aware that M1 was the only 0-30 in the US. What about Castrol, Valvo, Pennz?
You're mostly right... Petro Canada 0W-30 is available in some parts of the US, most likely at a local distributor or online retailer. The German Castrol is a 0W-30 but some people hear say it's "old news", I could be wrong on that since I don't pay much attention to any Castrol product. No SOPUS (Shell, QS and Pennzoil) product is available in a 0W-30. Some boutique oils like Redline and Amsoil also have a 0W-30.
 
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