Overwhelmed

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 21, 2014
Messages
5
Location
KS
I have been lurking around here for a long time and can't seem to figure out what to run. I have a 2008 Fusion 4cyl that I have been running PP 5/30 and a Wix filter. Same combo for the first change in a 2014 Kia Sorento. Now I am running VR1 20/50 and a wix filter in my 2001 Trans Am with a built iron block out of an Escalade, forged pistons and rods running a turbo. thinking about going to T6 or M1 0/40.
 
Turbo Trans Am? COOL !!!!!!!

I'd suggest M1, 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck for the Turbo Small Block. It's similar to T6, but I believe a bit more robust.

I have a 400 HP S2000 2.2L, and I run the TDT, with excellent results.

Another good choice is M1, 15W-50
 
Last edited:
I had considered TDT, and Delvac. Couldn't really find much info on the M1 15/50. How do my other selections for the Kia and Fusion sound?
 
And yes it is a 370 cubic inch. with a tiny Precision 76mm right now going to a Borg S480 soon. I just don't think I need the thickness the 20/50 gives.
 
Originally Posted By: budhoehn
And yes it is a 370 cubic inch. with a tiny Precision 76mm right now going to a Borg S480 soon. I just don't think I need the thickness the 20/50 gives.


IF it is still the stock, iron truck block clearances, then no, you do not need a dino 20W-50, even running crazy boost through it.
But you said it was "built", which I am taking for granted just means very strong, boost worthy, forged, pistons/rods/crank, with a slight stoke increase, and NOT increased bearing clearances, correct?
21.gif
 
Yes running a 20W-5O is way heavier than necessary to the point of being counterproductive.
Since this is a modified engine you should have an oil pressure
gauge installed (assuming you don't already have one). I think you'll find a typical synthetic 5W-30 like Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum will provide all the hot viscosity you'll need.
How will you know? If you can maintain about 55 psi at high rev's at maximum oil temp's there is no benefit in running anything heavier.
 
Not sure on exact clearances but the rods .022-.025 mains .025-.028

I assume my choice for the Kia and Fusion are good.
 
Those clearances would be consistent with the use of a 30 grade oil at non extreme maximum oil temp's.

For the KIA and Fusion is not a 5W-20 grade what is specified.
That being the case there is no benefit to running anything heavier.
 
My TDT recommendation stands.

The other Kia and Fusion will do just fine on PP or any other quality syn. 5W-30 syn will provide plenty of protection and is likely a touch higher in viscosity than the OEM oil recommendation.

Here in Hot and Sticky South Florida, I find that 10W-30 gives me better UOA results (half the wear metals) in everything I own. (all require 5W-20) . But, that's just me, my absurd driving style and abusive nature. Friends call me "relentless" when it comes to driving.

With the exception of company vehicles or when "on the clock", as I'm required to drive the speed limit.
 
Thanks for the input fellas, I feel good about either 5/20 or 30 in the Fusion and Kia. I take it there is no difference really between PP or M1 in this case? Whichever is cheaper.

As for my TA I am getting the 20/50 out. So I have one vote for TDT anybody think something would work better in this application?

T6
M1 0/40
Delo
Delvac
PU
 
Originally Posted By: budhoehn
thinking about going to T6 or M1 0/40


M1 0w-40 would be my vote. Sample at 4k oci and proceed as you feel comfortable.

It may shear down to a 30 grade oil in short order, but that's ok. Just use a short interval to keep it fresh. It's not horribly expensive, and with a built FI engine it's cheap insurance. Often this type of project car won't see a lot of miles anyway so it might only be 1-2 oci's per year anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: 05LGTLtd
Originally Posted By: budhoehn
thinking about going to T6 or M1 0/40


M1 0w-40 would be my vote. Sample at 4k oci and proceed as you feel comfortable.

It may shear down to a 30 grade oil in short order, but that's ok. Just use a short interval to keep it fresh. It's not horribly expensive, and with a built FI engine it's cheap insurance. Often this type of project car won't see a lot of miles anyway so it might only be 1-2 oci's per year anyway.


There is a lot of love for M1's 0W-40. However, actual real world UOA results don't show it to be unusually spectacular in high stress applications. Such as turbo or motorcycle use. TDT fares better.
 
IF you did not need/demand an 'on the shelf at Sino Mart' oil, and were willing to bother with the shipping and added expense of a 'boutique' oil, I would suggest the Red Line 0W-40, or Motul's 300V 0W-40, but most on here would call that "unnecessary overkill", even for a HIGH boost, hard driven, LSx app.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top