Okay so, I'm trying to remove my outer tir rod end. I've soaked them in pb blaster and no luck. I would try a torch to heat it up but I don't have one and I'm at my parents in cookeville TN and don't know too many people here. But I need help asap because I'm heading back to flint tonight and I need to get this don't tonight. Any help would be amazing. The car in a 99 Acura cl 2.3 with 204,500 miles. The tir rod end is the orignal parts. PLEASE HELP!
Outer tir rod end removal help!
- Thread starter J_Myler
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You need a pickle fork and a hammer.
You need a heavy duty tie rod end/ball joint remover, something similar to this:
https://mercedessource.com/node/7202
Q.
https://mercedessource.com/node/7202
Q.
Autozone might have a free loaner tool.
Which end is causing difficulty?
The end in the knuckle. Just put the nut on loosely and hit it sharply with a BF hammer.
The threaded end. Use two pipe wrenches,jam one up against the LCA and pull the other, use a extra piece of pipe on it if you have to.
This is really hack but without the right tools you don't have much choice. I assume you have a new tie rod?
The end in the knuckle. Just put the nut on loosely and hit it sharply with a BF hammer.
The threaded end. Use two pipe wrenches,jam one up against the LCA and pull the other, use a extra piece of pipe on it if you have to.
This is really hack but without the right tools you don't have much choice. I assume you have a new tie rod?
I got the end off of the knuckle I'm trying to get the end off steering rack. Da' gun Michigan rust. Yes, I have new tir rod end for both sides. These [censored] are lose as heck.
Originally Posted By: J_Myler
Okay so, I'm trying to remove my outer tir rod end. I've soaked them in pb blaster and no luck. I would try a torch to heat it up
Don't do that, you'll melt the boots. And that would be an expensively BAD thing if you didn't replace them afterwards.
If you've loosened the locknut and the tie rod end won't budge, use an angle-grinder to cut most of the way (not ALL the way) through the tie rod end where the threads are. The resulting heat and vibration should crack the rust loose.
Okay so, I'm trying to remove my outer tir rod end. I've soaked them in pb blaster and no luck. I would try a torch to heat it up
Don't do that, you'll melt the boots. And that would be an expensively BAD thing if you didn't replace them afterwards.
If you've loosened the locknut and the tie rod end won't budge, use an angle-grinder to cut most of the way (not ALL the way) through the tie rod end where the threads are. The resulting heat and vibration should crack the rust loose.
What Trav says should work. Sometimes it doesn't though. When a pair of pipe wrenches won't do it, the threads on your jam nut are borked. With a torch and some canning wax you can make it work, but when you add up all the time and whatnot it makes a lot of sense to just cut the inner tie rod between the nut and the boot and screw a new one on. If the jam nut turns but the outer tie rod end won't then you've probably got a bend in there. Back to the cutting.
What I like to do is bust the jam nut loose while the TRE is still in the knuckle. If I have to I'll use a car jack under the other end of the wrench, either at 8 or 4 oclock depending on the threading.
The NEXT fun thing is if the jam nut gets loose from the outer TRE but is stuck to the inner, breaking out the pipe wrench/ vise grips, etc to get it to budge so I can align the thing.
The NEXT fun thing is if the jam nut gets loose from the outer TRE but is stuck to the inner, breaking out the pipe wrench/ vise grips, etc to get it to budge so I can align the thing.
I can't even get the jam nut lose. Are the Threads revirse? On this car? Even such a thing?
Originally Posted By: eljefino
What I like to do is bust the jam nut loose while the TRE is still in the knuckle.
Yes that's a very good idea; I learned my lesson on that one.
What I like to do is bust the jam nut loose while the TRE is still in the knuckle.
Yes that's a very good idea; I learned my lesson on that one.
I'm pretty sure it's just a regular right hand thread. The only left-hand threads I've seen on tie rods are when there's a sleeve involved and that's not this car.
Keep in mind that once you get that nut loose and the outer tie rod end off you're still going to have to get that jam nut freed up enough that it moves in a reasonable manner or you're going to have the same problem again when you try to get the alignment done.
Keep in mind that once you get that nut loose and the outer tie rod end off you're still going to have to get that jam nut freed up enough that it moves in a reasonable manner or you're going to have the same problem again when you try to get the alignment done.
We use to take two big hammers. Place one firmly on one side of the knuckle holding the tapered shaft. Smack the other side with the second big hammer briskly. Repeat as needed (take a bunch of wacks at it). That usually loosened them up.
I have seen this on a few cars but have no idea on yours.
Its easy enough to check though with the visible threads.
Draw a straight horizontal line and lower the left of the line slightly downward, if the thread appears to be going like that its a right hand thread.
The opposite would be left handed threads.
Its easy enough to check though with the visible threads.
Draw a straight horizontal line and lower the left of the line slightly downward, if the thread appears to be going like that its a right hand thread.
The opposite would be left handed threads.
Get a heavy hammer or hand sledge.
Hit AROUND the tapered joint on the knuckle - sideways and hard.
Then, hit HARD on the joint end to mash it out.
If not, borrow or buy a puller from the auto parts store.
Hit AROUND the tapered joint on the knuckle - sideways and hard.
Then, hit HARD on the joint end to mash it out.
If not, borrow or buy a puller from the auto parts store.
Originally Posted By: J_Myler
I can't even get the jam nut lose. Are the Threads revirse? On this car? Even such a thing?
Sometimes they are. However, with severe enough rust, the nut and inner tie rod end can fuse together.
Anyway, when I deal with such a rusty car, I just order 2 outer tie rod ends, 2 inner tie rod ends, 2 PS rack boots, and remove the old stuff in a destructive manner.
I can't even get the jam nut lose. Are the Threads revirse? On this car? Even such a thing?
Sometimes they are. However, with severe enough rust, the nut and inner tie rod end can fuse together.
Anyway, when I deal with such a rusty car, I just order 2 outer tie rod ends, 2 inner tie rod ends, 2 PS rack boots, and remove the old stuff in a destructive manner.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Anyway, when I deal with such a rusty car, I just order 2 outer tie rod ends, 2 inner tie rod ends, 2 PS rack boots, and remove the old stuff in a destructive manner.
Angle grinder. Cut a deep slot parallel to the direction of the tie rod end, but not quite deep enough to contact the inner tie rod. Finish with Dremel. Vibration and heat will crack it loose. This method does not produce enough heat to melt the boot.
Anyway, when I deal with such a rusty car, I just order 2 outer tie rod ends, 2 inner tie rod ends, 2 PS rack boots, and remove the old stuff in a destructive manner.
Angle grinder. Cut a deep slot parallel to the direction of the tie rod end, but not quite deep enough to contact the inner tie rod. Finish with Dremel. Vibration and heat will crack it loose. This method does not produce enough heat to melt the boot.
I am assuming that you have the 'jam nuts and solid sleeve' verse the GM style two cinch bolts and a split sleeve. Either style gets rusted on and PB Blaster and gentle tapping with a small hammer will help. Then get two wrenches (pipe or monkey,etc.) , one on the old tie rod and one on the sleeve and twist it off. I found that one tie rod -the passenger side- was completely gone. The driver's side was still good. I think the pass. side gets the most abuse. The old advice to count the turns when you twist off the old tie rod and install the new tie rod the same no. of turns, doesn't work. It is better to measure the distance, say between the two grease fittings.
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