OTC haul

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Dec 19, 2013
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Location
Fort Worth, Texas
My old Bearing Splitters have seen better days.....Mostly from letting coworkers use them in the past, Seems no one got trained on using a splitter on a press as they always bridge the gap with the Screws instead of the Frames.

Also bought a Hub Grappler set.....Not that I do a lot of press fit wheel bearing service, But when I do.....It's a PITA!

bymawrv.jpg

w6AlB6W.jpg

xqgawvg.jpg

ioQJ9O4.jpg

lFrqH4f.jpg

Gv4C8aX.jpg
 
My old Bearing Splitters have seen better days.....Mostly from letting coworkers use them in the past, Seems no one got trained on using a splitter on a press as they always bridge the gap with the Screws instead of the Frames.

Also bought a Hub Grappler set.....Not that I do a lot of press fit wheel bearing service, But when I do.....It's a PITA!

bymawrv.jpg

w6AlB6W.jpg

xqgawvg.jpg

ioQJ9O4.jpg

lFrqH4f.jpg

Gv4C8aX.jpg

Sorry, should NOT have reposted the pictures.... What I wanted to ask - is for you, Clinebarger, to explain how to use a splitter without damaging it (on a press). You mention bridging the gap with the frame, and not the clamp-down screws...

It seems to me that you use the screws to gain enough purchase of the bearing inner race - and then you ensure that the screws are NOT bent during pressing by really-well supporting the jaws with "packing" as the Brits would say... so no bending action occurs on the redi-rod / screws...

But please explain further...
 

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  • OTC Bearing Splitter Kit.jpg
    OTC Bearing Splitter Kit.jpg
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I’ve used a hub grappler but never a bearing splitter I usually just press the bearing out if they are seized we cut them out with a torch.
 
My old Bearing Splitters have seen better days.....Mostly from letting coworkers use them in the past, Seems no one got trained on using a splitter on a press as they always bridge the gap with the Screws instead of the Frames.

Also bought a Hub Grappler set.....Not that I do a lot of press fit wheel bearing service, But when I do.....It's a PITA!

bymawrv.jpg

w6AlB6W.jpg

xqgawvg.jpg

ioQJ9O4.jpg

lFrqH4f.jpg

Gv4C8aX.jpg

Good stuff, I just wish I lived in an area that I could make use of all this stuff more. The grappler without the hydraulic is a little better than 50/50 here when it comes to rusted stuff.
The bearing splitter is invaluable.
 
Bosch/OTC has been my goto for suspension tools. I have a bunch, the ball joint popper is the most recent one I've used when I did my Dakota BJ and tie rod end.

A few years ago I was clearing out the last of my Sears/SYW points. I took a chance on a Craftsman slide hammer set, because it combined a larger hammer with more accessories than the same-price OTC and looked curiously similar. When I got it, sure enough it was made by Bosch for Craftsman. (Can't guarantee that is the case any more).
 
Sorry, should NOT have reposted the pictures.... What I wanted to ask - is for you, Clinebarger, to explain how to use a splitter without damaging it (on a press). You mention bridging the gap with the frame, and not the clamp-down screws...

It seems to me that you use the screws to gain enough purchase of the bearing inner race - and then you ensure that the screws are NOT bent during pressing by really-well supporting the jaws with "packing" as the Brits would say... so no bending action occurs on the redi-rod / screws...

But please explain further...

Like this....
m6iWbG3.jpg






NOT like this...
dj1rhcO.jpg
 
Ah, I see.

So I was 'kinda right, suggesting that you need full support for the jaws... where you do NOT at all rely on screw elements... EXCEPT to be able to hold the jaws from opening.

It seems to me you have a hydraulic press plate, there, that is forked, and has a milled-flat section....?

Thx!
 
That's my 3 ton Dake Arbor Press.....Which has handled all my needs up to this point, (I opened my shop 15 months ago), I'm on the lookout for a used USA made Hydraulic Press.

bBfe0hS.jpg
 
Pretty much, But you can only apply so much pressure without damaging the press. It's all about finesse over brute strength with an Arbor Press. Not really a tool you see a lot in automotive repair garages as large throat ones like mine cost around $1,600 which doesn't include the base/stand.

I use it mostly for pressing transmission bushings & pressing differential Carrier & Pinion bearings which in my opinion is better than using a hydraulic press.
 
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Pretty much, But you can only apply so much pressure without damaging the press. It's all about finesse over brute strength with an Arbor Press. Not really a tool you see a lot in automotive repair garages as large throat ones like mine cost around $1,600 which doesn't include the base/stand.

I use it mostly for pressing transmission bushing & pressing differential Carrier & Pinion bearings which in my opinion is better than using a hydraulic press.
That’s cool I appreciate the info. I’ve only ever used hydraulic presses and air powered ones.
 
With the Ice storm we had in February......I've been doing a ton of Japanese wheel bearings. These tools have been invaluable. Even did front bearings on a Lexus GS300 that the Hub Grappler wasn't designed to service......Using bits from the Push/Pull kit with the Hub Grappler along with pressing the Hub back on with the Arbor Press made it a pleasant experience.

I use liberal amounts of Anti seize on all the forcing screws, I can see them getting chewed up fast without it.....Saw this as the main complaint with the Hub Grappler in reviews.....I bet I could get several years out of it based off the fact I can't see any wear after this gauntlet.
 
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