Orig trans filter at 69K miles - oops

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Last night, I started to think about the 30K trans fluid change that will be due in 3 months (Ford AX4N). "It" was last done about 3 years ago at 41K miles. I knew the car had a trans flush done on the machine at Monroe and somehow I thought they did the filter as well. But, I couldn't positively recall the filter being changed. In checking the old receipt and talking to them it wasn't changed. It's not likely it had ever been done since I bought the car with 22K miles at 7 years old (anyone know a way to identify a factory trans pan gasket/seal?). The receipt also shows the fluid that was last used was regular Mercon. The car is spec'd for Mercon V.

I feel stupid for having messed up on this. All the 25K-30K trans fluid changes on my '97 Lincoln Continental were done at quick lubes with Mercon, the required fluid. Sometime in 1998-2000 I think Ford went to Mercon V. That '97 went 230K miles with no transmission issues on regular Mercon. It should have the identical transaxle/engine combo as my 2002. No doubt my course of action is to get the pan dropped, fluid and filter changed, and put the proper Mercon V in it. Is this something I need to do "yesterday?" The car has run perfect since the last fluid change. The driving done on this car doesn't lend itself to getting the fluids really hot. Usually 5-12 mile trips. One or two longer trips each month. Once a quarter it might drive 100 highway miles one way. The trans fluid is cooled via a cooler inside the radiator. I have no idea what to expect on a 69K mile filter and magnet. I know that some cars go for 150K-200K miles without any fluid change. Could the filter be totally blocked, partially blocked, or just fine? Even if severely blocked, is there still a way for fluid to flow? At least at 27K miles the fluid still looks a nice red.

Since I've never done a trans filter change before I was sort of planning on doing that myself when a decent 45 deg day popped up in the next 2-8 weeks...and save on the shop labor. I've watched a few videos on it and it doesn't seem all that difficult. One common fault seems to be leaving part of the filter neck behind and damaging that throat area while trying to extract it. Thanks to Bitog to getting me digging a lot more in depth with my car's fluids/maintenance. Should I expect problems down the road or can this trans be a bullet easily dodged? Comments?
 
I've owned 3 taurses. The transmission is a weak point on these cars. Just do it as soon as u can and u'll be fine. The o-ring for the filter gets stuck on the transmission and it dont want to come out sometimes i just reuse it and never had any problems. Just do them every 30k like planned.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
arent those filters basically "rock catchers" anyway?


I googled that thought:

An automatic transmission is a closed hydraulic devise with no foreign matter being introduced. Therefor, if the filter on a transmission should ever become plugged, it is plugged with transmission parts! This means the transmission is past the point of needing a fluid change. An engine on the other hand is constantly exposed to foreign matter (air and fuel) which brings in contaminants as well as the combustion that creates many other byproducts. The engine oil filter is designed to filter these products out.

Many transmission manufacturers use only a screen on the fluid pickup to filter out any casting flaws or debris that could be poured down the dipstick. Some manufacturers do not recommend changing the filter.

The fluid will break down and needs to be changed, the filters do not plug up on a healthy transmission.


Certainly trans fluid can become burnt. Don't know about it forming sludge or shellac unless coolant or other contaminants get in there. So a metal catcher seems reasonable to me.
 
I changed my Regal's factory transmission filter at 97k miles. As far as I know the transmission was never serviced as the women who owned the car was elderly and had a folder of everything related to the car from the original window stick to tire rotations.

The filter was very brittle and crack and broke off at the neck. I tried for about a hour to get it out and a buddy of mine said he's dealt with it before and got it out in under 3 mins with a pick and an hammer.
 
My 99 Vulcan made it to 146k when I sold it, I never once touched the pan. I had it serviced twice at a mechanic the second time he said something about vacuuming the filter, Idk if that's possible but every service after that I did myself with fill tube suck and fills with Mercon V and Mobil 1 50:50.

It shifted pretty good when I sold it with an occasional rough 1-2 up shift at part throttle but I always drove that thing WOT with hard city miles, I guess I got lucky?
 
Thanks for the inputs. I like the idea of the siphon/pump down the dip stick tube for freshenings.
 
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Thanks for the inputs. I like the idea of the siphon/pump down the dip stick tube for freshenings.



Have you heard about the mity vac? If you want to get serious those are nice, especially the ones that run on shop air.
 
I just did a trans pan, gasket, and filter on an AX4N @ 57k. The factory gasket is black plastic with two rubber strips. It's supposedly re-usable, but I'm getting a few drips of oil on the ground even though I used an inch-pound torque wrench on the pan bolts. (It's 89-106 inch-pounds per Mitchell.) I guess the factory gasket is 17 years old, so I should have just used the goofy rubber one that came with the new filter.

The filter is indeed a rockcatcher, probably filters 100 micron debris or larger. That's why I want to plumb in a Magnefine.

The magnet had maybe 1/4" of crud on it. That's similar to what other people have reported on transmissions with my mileage and little maintenance history.

I upgraded to a Dorman pan with drain plug since they're only $30
 
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