Opinions on break-in Oil for freshly rebuilt BMW E30 M3 S14

[DipShtick]

Hello everyone,

By way of introduction, I'm nearing completion on a restoration of a 1989 BMW E30 M3 I've been working on gradually for over 5 years.

The motor is the car's original S14 2.3L 4-cylinder, and was professionally rebuilt by a shop well known for specializing in these classic BMW motors.

I joined the forum to solicit your input on the best startup oil. Im fairly certain I'm going with a straight 30 weight non-detergent oil as recommended by my builder, but I'm not certain which brand has the best formulation.

I've read various posts on here and other sites (particularly Engine Builder and a huge startup oil test on a Corvette forum) about the pros and cons of viscosity modifiers, detergents, zinc, etc.

Links to articles I've focused on:

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/10/break-in-oils-and-assembly-lube-needs/

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forum...t-data-on-9-different-break-in-oils.html

However, I'm not an engineer so I thought I'd get more input on the technical side.

Right now I have a jug of Lucas' 30w break in oil, but the analysis in the Corvette forum says it has too much zinc, to the point where it starts to cause damage. This sounded suspect to me, but again - I'm not an engineer.

Redline's 30W Racing Oil did well in the Corvette forum test, but it doesn't seem to be a true 30W. Looks like it's a 10w30, and I'm unsure if the viscosity modifiers could present a problem. Overall I've had excellent experiences with Redline, in fact every other fluid in the car is redline (ok, Motul for Brakes, and Redline doesn't make washer fluid)

So basically, I don't have the expertise to make a definitive call and when you spend more on the motor build than you did on the car, you tend to sweat the small stuff.

So, any thoughts? Happy to provide additional information if helpful

Thanks!

 

[sloinker]

I think that the natural viscosity of the Red Line is inherent without VI. I wouldn't use the Red Line for break in because they advise against it, lack of ring seating . I would use the Lucas you have and dump it fairly soon, 500 miles if it was mine. I would then move onto a multi grade that meets specs for your engine. After it is well broke in, 3000 mile+ I would consider the Red Line.

 

[Lolvoguy]

Whatever you choose OP, make sure you don't baby the engine during break-in.
You'll possibly do more harm than good (oil consumption etc.).

 

[Wizz]

Me and my racing buddies always use a dedicated break-in oil on new builds. Namely Joe Gibbs Driven BR30 (5W-30). I would use any name brand break in oil that is 5/10w-30. The additional zddp levels will not be harmful at such a short duration.

I would advise against using a straight grade for break-in (or regular use). That whole old timer philosophy of "use a non detergent straight grade" is long gone with modern oils.

Change the oil a few times early on in a new build...it will make shavings for the first 1k miles.

On new builds I run break in oil during the tuning phase (short duration, 30 min or so, or 30 miles). Dump it and use another round of break-in oil up to 200 miles. Dump it then use regular oil until 1k miles....dump it then use regular schedule.

My wife's new Toyota made metal shavings until 1k miles. Oil was changed at 250 miles, 800 miles, and 2k miles...3rd oil change had no shavings.

 

[Loi]

Every new engine build I have used Motul break in 10w40. You can usually find a good deal on Amazon. You want a lot of engine braking for a new engine to properly seat the rings to prevent oil consumption later on.

 

[1JZ_E46]

Any of the break-in oils will be a good choice. Amsoil is a good one from what I've heard from engine builders. Break it in on a mountain road where you can let the engine freely rev through the rev-range without extended periods of sitting at the same RPM. Driven Racing's break in oil is probably also really good.

 

[Audios]

Every one weve done Ive gone with 15/40 and Redline break in additive for 500 miles, then switched to whatever Id normally use, normally the 5/40. They were not the S14 though, if the rebuilder is that well known for these motors and recommends 30 wt, so be it. Especially if theres a problem, it would be best to follow his break in and if they have a regular shop as well, allow him to change the oil after the break in. Or follow what he recommends from then on out.

 

[CT8]

ask the engine builder.

 

[Pelican]

Is the breaking-in going to be on the car or on the bench?

 

[DipShtick]

Thanks for the responses.

The breakin will be on the road. I plan to take it around on back roads around here to start, then drive it (or maybe trailer) it up to the mountains for a car show in a couple months. I don't think we'll have any shortage of engine braking and revving to put it through its paces.

Would you avoid highway miles on an engine still being broken in?

I'll probably change every 200 or so unless there's any drawback to doing so. The car won't see many miles (not a daily driver) so is there any limit to how long you would let the car sit? For example, if I start it, drive it 100 miles in a weekend, then it sits a week and I drive it another 100, would the oil with metal shavings, etc in it settle into any undesirable locations.

The motor has been sitting for about 2 years post rebuild, but I don't think that's an issue as it was all properly lubricated by the builder.

BMW originally spec'd 15w50 on this thing
Now most people use 15w40 or 10w40 for broken in engines

 

[maxdustington]

ND in an automobile made in 1989? I'd be running cheap 15W40 and changing it often. Save the SAE30 ND for your air compressor. I would not be running a SAE30 in any euro car made during the 80s.

 

[Wizz]

Originally Posted by DipShtick
Thanks for the responses.

The breakin will be on the road. I plan to take it around on back roads around here to start, then drive it (or maybe trailer) it up to the mountains for a car show in a couple months. I don't think we'll have any shortage of engine braking and revving to put it through its paces.

Would you avoid highway miles on an engine still being broken in?

I'll probably change every 200 or so unless there's any drawback to doing so. The car won't see many miles (not a daily driver) so is there any limit to how long you would let the car sit? For example, if I start it, drive it 100 miles in a weekend, then it sits a week and I drive it another 100, would the oil with metal shavings, etc in it settle into any undesirable locations.

The motor has been sitting for about 2 years post rebuild, but I don't think that's an issue as it was all properly lubricated by the builder.

BMW originally spec'd 15w50 on this thing
Now most people use 15w40 or 10w40 for broken in engines

Correct, highway miles are not ideal...but unless you're planning a road trip that involves a lot of hwy time I wouldn't worry.

 

[Chris142]

The ND30 oil is also missing the antiwear addatives and would be a terrible idea for breaking in a rebuilt engine. There are several companies that make break in oils just for this reason. Use that instead of the ND30.

Your re builder is still living in the 1970's.

 

[Egg_Head]

Originally Posted by CT8
ask the engine builder.

+1

 

[DipShtick]

Yeh, I agree with this approach, which is why I'm using the 30W per their instructions. They've been working on, building, and racing these motors since they were new.

To be clear I'm not planning to run this oil more than 1000 miles or so (with a couple change intervals in there). Long term will probably be a Liqui Moly 10w40 or 15w40

I'm looking more at which 30w is best for break in.

Specifically, is there any truth to the idea that a break in oil can have too much zinc? As that corvette site article claims the Lucas 30w does?

 

[umungus1122]

If you want to stay with 30, use Rotella SAE30 or 10w-30, or any 15w-40 HDEO will do also, with a respected break in additive. The Lucas you already have will be just fine as well.

 

[vssjim]

Originally Posted by Wizz
Me and my racing buddies always use a dedicated break-in oil on new builds. Namely Joe Gibbs Driven BR30 (5W-30). I would use any name brand break in oil that is 5/10w-30. The additional zddp levels will not be harmful at such a short duration.

I would advise against using a straight grade for break-in (or regular use). That whole old timer philosophy of "use a non detergent straight grade" is long gone with modern oils.

Change the oil a few times early on in a new build...it will make shavings for the first 1k miles.

On new builds I run break in oil during the tuning phase (short duration, 30 min or so, or 30 miles). Dump it and use another round of break-in oil up to 200 miles. Dump it then use regular oil until 1k miles....dump it then use regular schedule.

My wife's new Toyota made metal shavings until 1k miles. Oil was changed at 250 miles, 800 miles, and 2k miles...3rd oil change had no shavings.


not to be picky but joe gibbs sold that off along time ago I think the company just calls it Driven now

 

[vssjim]

I'm sure the Lucas break in oil will be fine and I used to do a 1000 mile break in and then go to regular changes as long as you are really going to drive it and put on miles in a normal drive cycle not a 500 mile a year deal.

 

[stanlee]

Use regular (for engine) grade oil and drive it properly: varying loads but don't ring it out, stay off the highway then change it after about 1000 miles. Been there done that (not with an E30 M3 though). As a previous BMW owner I use to hear the cost to rebuild those engines were stratospheric due to the rarity and cost of engine parts.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted by sloinker
I think that the natural viscosity of the Red Line is inherent without VI. I wouldn't use the Red Line for break in because they advise against it, lack of ring seating .

Red Line (and RP for that matter and probably Amsoil) has a specific break in oil available.

DipShtick, don't worry about zinc content of a break in lube too much over short break in intervals.