On a 96 GM Lumi, can you jackup on the rear cradle

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I have a 96 Chev Lumina and want to do some rear suspension work. I know where the usual jack points are on the body. But I want to jack up the rear by using the rear center support/cradle crossmember? Yes, I will use the jack stands before getting under the car. I don't want to collapse the center cradle if it won't hold the weight of the car.
BTW, the standard jack points are: 8" behind front wheel arch and 5" in front of rear wheel arch.
 
On a saturn with IRS it's a no-no, the "jack point" is only strong enough for them to lift the cradle into the car at the assembly line.

Post pics?
 
What I am trying to do is the RWD version of jacking up the car by putting the jack under the rear differential. Then you can put the 'jack stands' under the jack points. Whereas , if you jack up the car on the jack points, then where do you put the jack stand??
 
Unless I'm reading you incorrectly, I wouldn't jack on the transaxle. You're transferring the weight of the car onto the motor/trans mounts. This is different than jacking on the differential of a RWD car.
 
I am referring to a center cradle at the rear of the FWD car. This is between the rear wheels and not on the transaxle. The trailing arms go into this cradle.
 
Are you referring to the pad in the middle of the rear suspension where the control arms connect to? If the 1996 lumina is like my 1992 lumina that is a jack pad and you can jack up the whole rear end by that pad i have done it many times with no damage.
 
Yes, I am referring to that central pad that both control arms connect to. Thanks. When I use that as a central lift point, I can then put a jack stand under the regular jack point which is just five inches forward of the rear wheel arch.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Jim Spahr
Yes, I am referring to that central pad that both control arms connect to. Thanks. When I use that as a central lift point,

Yes, that is a jacking/lifting pad.
Used it hundreds of times on w-bodies
 
Thanks. Rock and all who responded. I have it jacked up and jackstands under the reg. jack points so I can replace the rear struts with new KYB struts and Moog springs. I started this project because of a rattling noise in the passenger side rear strut. It turned out the bottom isolator pad was broken and half handing out of the seat.... a 8.92 part, but since you have to compress the spring to remove and replace it, I decided to go ahead and do both struts and both springs. One off and one to go.
Now the only problem is the rear suspension is going to be firm and controlled. The front suspension is where the real wear has occurred because of the front weight bias of FWD cars. I need to tackle the front next. I may have to use strut cartridges.
 
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