OM605: importance of MB requirements? VS Rimula R4 L 15W40

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Hi,

It's been more than a month now since I've got hold on my new car: a year 1996 Mercedes-Benz C250 (W202) Turbodiesel. 270000 kilometers, automatic transmission.

This is the OM605 engine, inline-5 cylinders turbocharged indirect diesel injection, with a Bosch electronically controlled inline injection pump.

First, I changed oil -- the car made low miles in its last years by the previous owner, so the oil was like 4 years old -- and filter with some cheap A3/B4 15W40 oil (grocery store brand). A few days before I fixed a vacuum leak preventing the turbo wastegate to be closed, and all the exhaust tract was filled with soot ready to be puffed off the exhaust, so it took a good stroll to get rid of the majority of it.

The engine sound, at idle and on drive, is now smoother. But I want to change the oil again (and change my habits haha) and run a "quality" oil.

I can shop Shell Rimula R4 L 15W40 (link) for cheap (around €30 for 5 liters, it's cheap enough), Shell Helix HX7 10W40 (about the same cost), and Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 (€35)

I live in Reunion Island, where the temps at night won't go below 10°C. I like the idea of running a 15W40 if possible in the long term. I'm now running WVO at 80% and planning to do some mods (more fuel, alter timing, and maybe try a little bit more boost but I don't think that would be worth it with WVO and stock pump internals and injectors).

I might short-trip but I'll do a fast road for 30 minutes almost 3 days a week. I don't plan on extending OCI and what I plan is like 10000 kilometers OCI.
Would you go for Rimula R4 L 15W40 (which has MB-Approval 228.31) or Helix HX7 10W40 (229.3) or Helix Ultra 5W40 (229.5, 226.5) ?
 
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Can you get the Rimula R6M 10W40? That's I would run. R4L is "low saps" (but comparable to the HX7 probably) no?

Otherwise I'm sure any decent 10 or 15W40 will do just fine...SHU 5W40 for only 5€ more than the HX7, I'd grab this one instead.

Edit : forgot to say, congratulations on this new to you car! I always had a sweet spot for that generation of C with that particular engine.
 

Superflan

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Can you get the Rimula R6M 10W40? That's I would run. R4L is "low saps" (but comparable to the HX7 probably) no?

Otherwise I'm sure any decent 10 or 15W40 will do just fine...SHU 5W40 for only 5€ more than the HX7, I'd grab this one instead.

Edit : forgot to say, congratulations on this new to you car! I always had a sweet spot for that generation of C with that particular engine.
I can't get any brand name HDEO oil other than this R4 L for now, the rest will be passenger cars oils at the same price or higher

There I'll be questioning, why go towards a wide temp range 5W40 that maybe will shear faster than a 15W40 where it's not necessary due to ambiant temperatures?

In the past I was an advocate for "synthetic" oils like those 5W40 helix ultra or anything but time showed me that a lot of 10w40 cheap oils, when changed on time and properly, would do the job of keeping performance and cleanliness up ? Since I use random oils now tend to believe that all the cars where I started doing oil changes were just poorly maintenaid before in the first place.
 

Superflan

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Edit : forgot to say, congratulations on this new to you car! I always had a sweet spot for that generation of C with that particular engine.
Teaser:
received_163199925657962.jpeg
 
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Looking good!

Yes for sure, fresh and clean oil is better than expensive fancy oil that is kept too long ;)

I can't answer your question, as I don't know. Let's just say the SHU would stay closer to the original recommendations (I guess 229.1 or 3 ?), but for sure a narrower range oil will supposedly resist shearing better. Then is it an engine that shears oil? I guess timing chain, oil lubricated injection pump?
 
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Congratulation! This is a beast of an engine. Mine now has over 500 000 km and barely burns any oil. Over it's life, the OCI was something like 10 000 to 15 000 km with nothing more than any cheap 15W40 (sometimes HDEO) or 10W40. It just doesn't care what oil you put in. The only problem with these engines are the crappy plastic fittings, the o-rings harden then air is sucked into the fuel system and you loose power. For your OCI and climate, use anything MB 229.1/3 with confidence.
 

JHZR2

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I would t think twice about running the RiMika, if it’s a good price. You don’t seem to need the thinner oils for starting purposes, so go with it.
 

Superflan

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Congratulation! This is a beast of an engine. Mine now has over 500 000 km and barely burns any oil. Over it's life, the OCI was something like 10 000 to 15 000 km with nothing more than any cheap 15W40 (sometimes HDEO) or 10W40. It just doesn't care what oil you put in. The only problem with these engines are the crappy plastic fittings, the o-rings harden then air is sucked into the fuel system and you loose power. For your OCI and climate, use anything MB 229.1/3 with confidence.
Thanks, I see that E250D in your signature ! Is it the 113hp W124 (rectangle headligts) or W210 (double round headlights) ? I have the air in fuel lines problem, just changing the fuel filter (seemed clogged) helped a lot, but since moving on to WVO it doesnt hardly have air entering anymore. Temporary fix, but would do for now. If you've got the auto gearbox, I'd like to chat about it on another topic or DM. I have the instrument cluster worn stepper motors problem, have to fix it very soon

Back on the oil topic, how cheap do you shop your oil for it ?
 
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Thanks, I see that E250D in your signature ! Is it the 113hp W124 (rectangle headligts) or W210 (double round headlights) ? I have the air in fuel lines problem, just changing the fuel filter (seemed clogged) helped a lot, but since moving on to WVO it doesnt hardly have air entering anymore. Temporary fix, but would do for now. If you've got the auto gearbox, I'd like to chat about it on another topic or DM. I have the instrument cluster worn stepper motors problem, have to fix it very soon

Back on the oil topic, how cheap do you shop your oil for it ?
It's the S124, the wagon version of the W124, naturally aspirated and with a 5 speed manual (unfortunately). Don't forget too check the pre filter too. The screen filter in the tank can clog up too. Happened to me twice due to algae.

Usually i buy oil on sale of just a supermarket brand. This one only had 15W40 or 10W40 so i stick with that. Over the last few years i used Shell HX5 15W40, Shell HX7 10W40, Total Quartz 7000 10W40, Castrol GTX 15W40 and 10W40, Supermarket 10W40 as well as Shell Rimula 15W40. Always around 15€ for 5L.
 
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Nice find. I really would think twice, no three times, before running WVO. It leads to coked up injector tips and failed pumps. And that's before you mod it for higher boost and fueling. If this is an experiment, then by all means please document your experience.

Otherwise, I'd suggest sticking to regular D2 or biodiesel if you really want to burn something "renewable."

+1 on using proper MB spec oil.
 

Superflan

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Nice find. I really would think twice, no three times, before running WVO. It leads to coked up injector tips and failed pumps. And that's before you mod it for higher boost and fueling. If this is an experiment, then by all means please document your experience.

Otherwise, I'd suggest sticking to regular D2 or biodiesel if you really want to burn something "renewable."

+1 on using proper MB spec oil.
I admit it could lead to failures. From my own experience with the Bosch VE powered DW8 engine in the Peugeot Partner, on which I put 70000Km running various ratios of WVO, I still don't have a performance loss (but I eventually had gradual seals failures, ultimately lead to rebuilding the VE pump).

I'd settle for a 80% WVO ratio for now, it feels safe (not too much loss of power) and I'll sort timing and injection quantity later (boost will stay stock for first part of the experiment, that inline pump wouldn't accept cranking a lot more fuel than it already does).

And a dose of Stanadyne in each full tank
 
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My first car was a Peugeot 406 with a Bosch VP44 pump on an XUD9TE engine. Boost was increased from 14 to 21psi and the fueling and timing modified to suit.

The owners manual advised that in cold weather where winter diesel wasn't availible you could run up to 30% petrol to avoid the diesel gelling.

I put a call in to a few local garages, whenever they had a car in that had been mis-fueled they would give me a ring to collect the mixed fuel.

My Uncle works in a local fish & chip shop and used to get all the used cooking oil for me.

I would let the used oil sit for 6 weeks. The large chunks would fall to the bottom and the water would sit on the top. I'd drain the water out and filter the clean oil in the middle through some rags layed out in a funnel. I'd mix the 'filtered oil' 30% with the misfuel and stick it straight in the car.

Did about 30k in 1 year like that with no mishaps.
 
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It's the S124, the wagon version of the W124, naturally aspirated and with a 5 speed manual (unfortunately). Don't forget too check the pre filter too. The screen filter in the tank can clog up too. Happened to me twice due to algae.
pre-emissions diesel MANUAL station wagon

perfect for the average poster here
 
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pre-emissions diesel MANUAL station wagon

perfect for the average poster here
These manual transmissions are not very pleasant to shift and and an automatic transmission is what belongs in a Benz IMO.
 

Superflan

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My first car was a Peugeot 406 with a Bosch VP44 pump on an XUD9TE engine. Boost was increased from 14 to 21psi and the fueling and timing modified to suit.

The owners manual advised that in cold weather where winter diesel wasn't availible you could run up to 30% petrol to avoid the diesel gelling.

I put a call in to a few local garages, whenever they had a car in that had been mis-fueled they would give me a ring to collect the mixed fuel.

My Uncle works in a local fish & chip shop and used to get all the used cooking oil for me.

I would let the used oil sit for 6 weeks. The large chunks would fall to the bottom and the water would sit on the top. I'd drain the water out and filter the clean oil in the middle through some rags layed out in a funnel. I'd mix the 'filtered oil' 30% with the misfuel and stick it straight in the car.

Did about 30k in 1 year like that with no mishaps.
Glad to hear about your story! I never got water on top of waste oil. I ran a few tanks of WVO 80% blend in the Mercedes already but I should take time to post an update here. I passed emissions on WVO
 
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