Older car with lower mileage

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Picked up a 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis with 87,000 miles. I’ve had a few of these over the years. Seems pretty well taken care of, lady passed away a couple years ago and hasn’t been driven much.

I’m going to give it a once over with all new fluids, filters , tune up etc.

As far as the oil goes I’m planning on doing a couple 5k OCI’s with Mobil 1 EP high mileage and change the filter halfway each time just to do some cleaning if there is any to be done. Then just do Valvoline Maxlife 5k’s from there on out.

Sound like a solid plan for the oil? Thanks!
 
Picked up a 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis with 87,000 miles. I’ve had a few of these over the years. Seems pretty well taken care of, lady passed away a couple years ago and hasn’t been driven much.

I’m going to give it a once over with all new fluids, filters , tune up etc.

As far as the oil goes I’m planning on doing a couple 5k OCI’s with Mobil 1 EP high mileage and change the filter halfway each time just to do some cleaning if there is any to be done. Then just do Valvoline Maxlife 5k’s from there on out.

Sound like a solid plan for the oil? Thanks!
Have no idea why you would need High Mileage oil. Ran my 05 Vic for over 300K miles using only 5w20 Mobil 1 AFE and EP and sometimes 5w20 Motorcraft oil. Used only Motorcraft Filters. Never added oil between my 5K miles OCI. Wish I never sold it!!

Besides Water Pump and A/C issue no other repairs. Never needed a Tune Up. Pulled plugs at 200K miles and they still looked decent. But Filters were changed regularly. Used only 87 octane fuel.

There will never be a low maintenance vehicle like the Panther again! At one time my family had 4 Panthers. All trouble free.
 
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No need for early filter change, doubt engine is crudded up. I think the HM oil is a good choice; can’t hurt to make sure seals are in good shape.
 
Not bad for $3,500. It’s has the handling & performance package too
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I think you're overestimating the cleaning abilities of Mobil 1. The only decent cleaning is done by their Moibl 1 FS 0W-40 Euro oil.
If it were mine, I would do a few 4k OCI with any low priced full synthetic, and then do an engine flush with LiquiMoly or Motor Medic engine flush.
 
Honestly, I'd just give it some fresh fluids and then follow the manual.

Makes the most sense unless you have reason to believe the previous owner didn't do the proper fluid changes.

I'd be more concerned about rust hiding in the wheel wells and lips, rocker panels, bottom of doors and quarter panels, and in front of the rear bumper area. Do a good inspection, wire brush and repaint and questionable areas. Those rockers can sneak up on you. Dealing with that now on my 2001 with 69K miles. It's always been waxed too. Your car looks REALLY clean from the photos.
 
If it were me I would forget the cleaning regimen and just go with synthetic 5W-30 and a new filter and drive. I'd do a shortish OCI like 3,000 miles then take a look and see what the filter is like. I bet you'll find all looks normal. Then go up to like 5K and feel free to extend if you are using a good quality oil and filter.
 
It’s a Georgia car, there’s absolutely zero rust underneath. I’m gonna give it a good detail.

The old lady seemed to have taken care of it. But I’m still gonna change all the fluids and put a set of plugs in it.

The tires are starting to dry rot, so it’s going in in a couple of weeks to have the suspension checked to be sure all is good and get a set of tires.

I got a jug of super tech 5w30 synthetic hm which I’m gonna run for 3-4k, I also have the jug of 5w30 Mobil 1 EP HM which I’ll run for 5k afterwards.
 
MuzzleFlash40,

After owning an uncountable amount of panthers over the years, the 4.6L engine has other issues besides the brand and type of oil. I personally would not mess around wasting all the time and resources changing to all those different oils hoping to flush out the engine. Use any brand 5w-20, 5w-30, 10w-30, or 0w-30. for 3k to 5k. No 40wt oils. You will no joke be able to feel the power gains after you run a 40wt and go back to a 20wt. I am not joking the difference was able to be felt. I ran german castrol way back in the day and those that know that oil are familiar that it was about or equal to a 40wt oil when warm. When I dumped that oil and put in motorcraft 5w-20 I thought I had just got done doing a complete tuneup the power was that dramatic.

2000-2003 engines had metal block timing chain tensioners, coupled to faulty tensioner arms. What ends up happening is that the plastic breaks off and allows the chain to dig into the raw aluminum. Save all the money with the oil changes and get those addressed. The engine will be able to outlast the whole car at that point. Not addressing this issue the engine will still last to 120k ~ 140k or thereabouts. Probably not over 150k with the chains grinding. And no you really cannot hear it.

Also plan to purchase a spare intake manifold as yours will eventually fail from age.

Remove the rear bumper cover 2 lower brackets an double zip tie the tabs to the metal bar above it. This will prevent you from tearing the rear bumper cover like all the other ones you will see on the road.

If that car is rust free now, get it undercoated with krown / woolwax / or fluid film now before its too late.
 
Looks like a great car to me. Plus chances are the previous old lady owner did have decent maintenance performed, probably at the dealer or same local shop. I agree with the rest, just run some synthetic 5w-20 or 5w-30 oil, no need for in-between filter changes. High mile oil not really needed unless it has some leaks. What will probably benefit the most after the engine/trans/rearend fluid changes, is to take a decent long few hour trip and running it good speed and time. After sitting couple years, plus the old lady likely just went short trips around town. Get the new fluids all circulated and help cleaning the various systems. Enjoy the new car, like riding on your couch. The last of the rwd cars from Ford.
 
I absolutely love those cars. I had three plus two Lincoln town cars that were essentially the same vehicle in terms of running gear.

If it were mine, I’d change all the fluids, and stick with Motorcraft 5w20 and a Motorcraft filter. I had one town car with the same 4.6 L engine that is still running at 320,000 miles using 5w20 Motorcraft every 4-5,000 miles.

With 8x,xxx miles, you’re good for another 100,000 at least.

The only issue I ever had was a blend door motor crapped out which required the dash to be pulled. Oh yea, and an air suspension compressor.

If I could find one like that I’d buy it in a heartbeat (oops…that’s Chevy!). Enjoy
 
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