Old Maytag A511 washer shaking hard during spin cycle

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Maytag Top Loader A511 (listed 745G) that we got used in the early 1990s. Only one minor repair in that time. It's shaking pretty good in the spin cycle in the past 2 weeks or so on large loads with larger items. On the last medium load for small items which was well balanced......no extra vibration. I can reduce 1/2 of the large load vibrations by putting 100 lbs of weight on the top or pushing down on it with my upper body. For now we do smaller sized loads until I can figure this out. I just don't want to tear into things without knowing the most logical causes. I don't see an obvious smoking gun. We don't place heavy items like blankets in this machine....always to the Laundromat for those. Undershirts, towels, and bed sheets are the bulkiest items....and those almost never led to machine shaking. If it did, it was always remedied by re-balancing the items in the inner tub.

We make sure the loads are very well balanced......in both wash and spin cycles. Machine is very level at all 4 feet with no wobble on the frame. I'm thinking it might be the tub bearing or something internal to the transmission. I've also read that a clog in the drain pump exist "could" cause vibration? Still on the original drive belts which look fine, but the belts are pretty loose under there with probably 3/4" to 1" of play. The main drive belt for agitation is stiffer. Pulling on the belts rotates everything easily. I've never adjusted them and frankly never even looked at them until yesterday. I don't think that's the problem though as the components driven off those pulleys don't ever seem to slip. I pulled side to side on the agitator drive pulley and there's no give.....but it pushes upward with about 1/16" of play.

5 yrs ago one of the 3 tub spring floor supports pulled through the rotted floor (the one at the far left of picture). I installed a very large washer under the floor for new support.....in place of the tiny factory washer. I don't see that being an issue as everything there as well as the other 2 springs/supports seem tight/strong. The only change I've noted is that the basket/tub is easier to push with the fingers than when I first did that spring mount repair. At that time the tub was always pulled just a tad more (1/4" to 3/8") towards the direction of that repaired spring mount . And it returned back to the position if you tried pushing it in another direction. That's not the case any more. If you push the tub off center by 1/4" to 1/2" in any direction now, it pretty much stays there. So that did change in the past couple of weeks. So I am considering installing a 3x3 or 4x4 steel backing plate under the frame floor for stronger support from the rusted floor than the current 2" SS washer. But that spring and mount seem to be firm and under strong tension. But knowing the floor is weak with rot holes in the region, it does suggest that floor area is more prone to move up and down than at the other 2 spring mounts.

Check video below at 4:48 and 23:15 for tub play....of which there seems to be a LOT....even with a new tub bearing. Mine is about the same.....fairly easy to push around. This Whirlpool is the same basic machine as mine.

Any comments or opinions on how to proceed would be appreciated. This machine has been a champ for over 30 yrs. Last thing I want to do is to buy a new fangled machine with "gadgets" that will probably fail inside 3-7 yrs.

Maytag - Whirlpool washer

IMG_20190118_105714.jpg
 
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Maytag Top Loader A511 (listed 745G) that we got used in the early 1990s. Only one minor repair in that time. It's shaking pretty good in the spin cycle in the past 2 weeks or so on large loads with larger items. On the last medium load for small items which was well balanced......no extra vibration. I can reduce 1/2 of the large load vibrations by putting 100 lbs of weight on the top or pushing down on it with my upper body. For now we do smaller sized loads until I can figure this out. I just don't want to tear into things without knowing the most logical causes. I don't see an obvious smoking gun. We don't place heavy items like blankets in this machine....always to the Laundromat for those. Undershirts, towels, and bed sheets are the bulkiest items....and those almost never led to machine shaking. If it did, it was always remedied by re-balancing the items in the inner tub.

We make sure the loads are very well balanced......in both wash and spin cycles. Machine is very level at all 4 feet with no wobble on the frame. I'm thinking it might be the tub bearing or something internal to the transmission. I've also read that a clog in the drain pump exist "could" cause vibration? Still on the original drive belts which look fine, but the belts are pretty loose under there with probably 3/4" to 1" of play. The main drive belt for agitation is stiffer. Pulling on the belts rotates everything easily. I've never adjusted them and frankly never even looked at them until yesterday. I don't think that's the problem though as the components driven off those pulleys don't ever seem to slip. I pulled side to side on the agitator drive pulley and there's no give.....but it pushes upward with about 1/16" of play.

5 yrs ago one of the 3 tub spring floor supports pulled through the rotted floor (the one at the far left of picture). I installed a very large washer under the floor for new support.....in place of the tiny factory washer. I don't see that being an issue as everything there as well as the other 2 springs/supports seem tight/strong. The only change I've noted is that the basket/tub is easier to push with the fingers than when I first did that spring mount repair. At that time the tub was always pulled just a tad more (1/4" to 3/8") towards the direction of that repaired spring mount . And it returned back to the position if you tried pushing it in another direction. That's not the case any more. If you push the tub off center by 1/4" to 1/2" in any direction now, it pretty much stays there. So that did change in the past couple of weeks. So I am considering installing a 3x3 or 4x4 steel backing plate under the frame floor for stronger support from the rusted floor than the current 2" SS washer. But that spring and mount seem to be firm and under strong tension. But knowing the floor is weak with rot holes in the region, it does suggest that floor area is more prone to move up and down than at the other 2 spring mounts.

Check video below at 4:48 and 23:15 for tub play....of which there seems to be a LOT....even with a new tub bearing. Mine is about the same.....fairly easy to push around. This Whirlpool is the same basic machine as mine.

Any comments or opinions on how to proceed would be appreciated. This machine has been a champ for over 30 yrs. Last thing I want to do is to buy a new fangled machine with "gadgets" that will probably fail inside 3-7 yrs.

Maytag - Whirlpool washer

View attachment 235230
Got all 4 floor legs evenly balanced?
 
I think that the springs and floor pan are your problem. You can try to repair. If it were mine, I would be shopping for a new GE top loader with dual action agitator.
 
Based upon your photo, it looks like the front gray colored spring is under constant tension (i.e., coils are stretched) and the old 2 rear springs are not. I think the rear spring(s) have lost their tempering/tension due to fatigue and need replacement to equalize the suspension.
 
Based upon your photo, it looks like the front gray colored spring is under constant tension (i.e., coils are stretched) and the old 2 rear springs are not. I think the rear spring(s) have lost their tempering/tension due to fatigue and need replacement to equalize the suspension.
This. kind of like replacing one worn strut or shock.
 
Based upon your photo, it looks like the front gray colored spring is under constant tension (i.e., coils are stretched) and the old 2 rear springs are not. I think the rear spring(s) have lost their tempering/tension due to fatigue and need replacement to equalize the suspension.

All 3 springs are the original ones......30+ yrs old. They are under a lot of tension and hard to move. They don't appear weak......nearly 5" long, 21 coils per spring.....1-3/16 wide....coil thickness of 0.205". I don't know why 2 would fatigue over time and not the 3rd one. ??

The only repair I ever did was on the far left spring "floor mount" in the photo.....arrow pointing to spring. I re-used that same spring while reinforcing the under-side floor nut with a larger 2" washer. The original nut/washer was 1/2" od and ripped through the floor. The 2" washer seems to provide a strong enough anchor point. Yes, the floor is compromised somewhat.....but tension on the tub seems pretty even all the way around. If the spring mount had started to give up again.......then when stationary, the tub should pull hard towards the other 2 springs. Which is not happening. I can push the tub in any direction and it stays put. No side appears to be under considerably more tension than the other. Machine has been running fine for the past 5 years since that floor mount was reinforced....and the other 2 springs assemblies were never touched.
 
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This. kind of like replacing one worn strut or shock.

I didn't replace any of the struts/shocks....only the floor washers, spindle, & nuts 5 yrs ago, that the left side spring/shock attaches to. All 3 large springs are original to the machine....and stiff as heck to stretch, even with tools.

But just to be sure.....I measured the spring lengths, and coil to coil gaps to see if all 3 are the same. The forward spring is apporx 4-7/8" long over the active coil length (flat coil to flat coil). The other 2 a little less at 4-1/2" to 4-3/4"....about 1/4" difference from the front spring. The gaps on the front spring are around 0.045". The right rear spring about 0.035" and the far left spring around 0.028". Approx 10-15 thousandths different. So they are loaded slightly different.....and is that enough to make the tub go out of balance at high speed/large load? The rust/flaking paint on the 2 rear spring coils might made the gaps look even smaller in the photo....so I made up a couple wood shims to move in and out of them.....and measured the gaps.

I did note that the right 2 springs are close to vertical. The left spring angles inward in a bit......a result of that floor mount repair.

I guess I have to do something again to the left spring mount.....a much wider base, maybe even using the side wall or entire floor for support as that left rear floor will eventually shear apart. I rust-proofed it the best I could 5 yrs ago. It may or may not solve the shaking....but it will put the mount to bed for another 5-10 yrs.
 
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Got all 4 floor legs evenly balanced?

Yes. Perfectly balanced. Anytime the machine shakes at all I recheck all the legs and ensure the machine has zero wobble or give when pushing on it.....even as little as 0.5 to 1 mm can cause problems I haven't had to shim/adjust anything in years. Still very stable.

Should note that the photo I provided above was taken 5 yrs ago when I was fixing the left spring mount. The left spring was just hanging under no tension yet. The other 2 springs are still like that today with relatively little gapping on the coils.
 
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Yes. Perfectly balanced. Anytime the machine shakes at all I recheck all the legs and ensure the machine has zero wobble or give when pushing on it.....even as little as 0.5 to 1 mm can cause problems I haven't had to shim/adjust anything in years. Still very stable.
Seems like all you can do is run the lighter loads and look for a big holiday sale when she goes.
 
I had a Maytag Top Loader A511- 1989 Very light use its whole life, at about 19 years old the tub bearing needed replacement,that is a huge job.Fast forward 8 years tub had a little trouble to start spin cycle ,called a maytag repair guy he said needs a tub bearing, at that age it is foolish to repair! He said scrap it!
 
I had a Maytag Top Loader A511- 1989 Very light use its whole life, at about 19 years old the tub bearing needed replacement,that is a huge job.Fast forward 8 years tub had a little trouble to start spin cycle ,called a maytag repair guy he said needs a tub bearing, at that age it is foolish to repair! He said scrap it!

What were the symptoms of your tub bearing going? Shaking?

A link I posted above shows a tub bearing being replaced. Other than some extra tools it doesn't appear to be that complicated.
Though tedious. Could take me all day to do something like that.....and who knows how available and costly the parts are now.
Tub bearing would be the last thing to replace though.
 
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What were the symptoms of your tub bearing going? Shaking?

A link I posted above shows a tub bearing being replaced. Other than some extra tools it doesn't appear to be that complicated.
Though tedious. Could take me all day to do something like that.....and who knows how available and costly the parts are now.
I replaced the main bearing on an older model (1995) Maytag top loader washer when it started leaking in 2010. It took me ~4 hours, including cleaning out all the soap scum from the outer drum. The only tool I had to buy was the special spanner wrench to remove the tub stem seal nut. If you DIY car maintenance, it is a piece of cake. The tub bearing is readily available for ~$50 from Maytag and all major online appliance parts retailers like RepairClinic, PartSelect, etc.
 
What were the symptoms of your tub bearing going? Shaking?

A link I posted above shows a tub bearing being replaced. Other than some extra tools it doesn't appear to be that complicated.
Though tedious. Could take me all day to do something like that.....and who knows how available and costly the parts are now.
Tub bearing would be the last thing to replace though.
Vibration- With all the rust on that lower pan I think your tub seal is probably leaking, my repair done on 19 year old machine the paint was great shape on the lower pan.
 
Any comments or opinions on how to proceed would be appreciated. This machine has been a champ for over 30 yrs. Last thing I want to do is to buy a new fangled machine with "gadgets" that will probably fail inside 3-7 yrs


I have read online that Speed Queen make a very stout replica of old school Matag Washers-Very heavy Duty and reliable!
 
Any comments or opinions on how to proceed would be appreciated. This machine has been a champ for over 30 yrs. Last thing I want to do is to buy a new fangled machine with "gadgets" that will probably fail inside 3-7 yrs


I have read online that Speed Queen make a very stout replica of old school Matag Washers-Very heavy Duty and reliable!
Speed Queen has a small load capacity.
 
Any comments or opinions on how to proceed would be appreciated. This machine has been a champ for over 30 yrs. Last thing I want to do is to buy a new fangled machine with "gadgets" that will probably fail inside 3-7 yrs


I have read online that Speed Queen make a very stout replica of old school Matag Washers-Very heavy Duty and reliable!
Maytag still sells a heavy duty commercial grade top loader that is built like their good old units. However, it will cost you a grand to get one. That pricetag is still less than a new Speed Queen which holds less capacity.

Maytag Commercial Washer

PSA: If you opt to buy the Maytag Commercial Washer, purchase it directly through Maytag to get the 5 year warranty. If you buy it through a big box store (e.g., Lowes, Home Depot), Best Buy), it only comes with a 1 year warranty!
 
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