oils that suck

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quote:

Originally posted by bottgers:
I don't know how good it's lubricanting qualities are, but I can tell you Valvoline's Max Life doesn't do what they claim it will. I used it in my car to stop (or at least slow) a consumption problem. It didn't do squat.

May depend on the grade of Maxlife used. The flash point on the 5w30 is not impressive (about 220C), better on 10w30 (230C), but great on the 10w40 (242C). I suspect the 5w30 will consume, but the 10w40 is doing nicely in my pickup (not that it was a heavy consumer, but I have not had to add any in 2400 miles). Also, what oil were you using before?
 
Valvoline MaxLife ran great in my previous car but it DID NOT stop an oil seal leak. Auto-RX seemed to stop the oil seal leak.

I don't think there are any major brand motor oils that are completely bad. Some say that Valvoline is weak compared to other conventional motor oils but with 3000 mile oil changes Valvoline would probably do fine.

But I prefer Chevron or Castrol for conventional motor oil.
 
I never noticed any oil burn off in the 99 bonneville I change the oil on (then again, I never checked closely). In the last 4k of 10w-30 Max Life a quart has magically disappeared. So I added another quart to the car and since the oil looks and smells clean it should last fine for another thousand till I can change it.

All I can say is, in its place is going Delvac 1300
 
quote:

Mobil Drive Clean and Drive Clean Blend. It is the onlyu oil that I have ever had a car consume. I had two trucks that ate a quart of this stuff every week. BOth vechiles had never burned any oil before. I drained them and refilled with other products and they both quite burning oil.

I switched from Castrol to the Drive Clean blend in my girlfriend's car, and oil consumtion was reduced! It doesn't use nearly as much oil as it used to.
 
quote:

Originally posted by guitargeek:

quote:

Mobil Drive Clean and Drive Clean Blend. It is the onlyu oil that I have ever had a car consume. I had two trucks that ate a quart of this stuff every week. BOth vechiles had never burned any oil before. I drained them and refilled with other products and they both quite burning oil.

I switched from Castrol to the Drive Clean blend in my girlfriend's car, and oil consumtion was reduced! It doesn't use nearly as much oil as it used to.


Goes to show no 2 vehicles are the same.

Kind of like a snowflake but vehicles don't melt.
grin.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:
Jerry, Motorbike's experience shadows my own. Read my post on "0-20/fuel economy post you started". You state that you had no difference in f. economy and Motorbike's was 21%.

Your observation mimmics those posters from Australia that say they don't notice a difference either except that the engine sounds like a box of marbles. The difference as I have too noted is as Motorbike describes and I have posted this observation well over a year ago is that on an engine that has had a steady diet of 30 weight for eg. for many thou's of miles and then a 50 weight is used, fuel economy will pummel.

Like when I had the ever-diminishing engine performance from 30 weight synthetic and first put in M-1 15-50...it was like I lost half the engine along with half the fuel economy to boot. My guess is that all the varnish/gummed up garbage from years/thou's of mi. of thin oil use resulted in constrictions which were then non-condusive to a thicker viscosity. This may be why some are confused and make statements like "thick oils suck". Well, yeah...they do when all your engine knows is 5-30.

So, I have concluded that to these nay-sayers to first clean out the garbage with auto-rx or similar before moving to such thicker viscosities. Otherwise, move up gradually or use diesel/ester-base oils (eg. Delvac or Redline) to clean things out first.

And IMO the cleanup "could take" just as many miles as it took to lay down the crap in the first play. ie. it's a beehatch to get things clean. That's why it's smarter to keep things clean in the first place. 3k OCI's or heavier weight synth. concurrent with extended OCI based on UOA's as a guide.


Dr. T:

It sounds like a "slippery slope" wrt engine deposits. By the time you notice a problem, it's usually too late to fix.

I agree in that case, a much heavier viscosity may cause problems with lost power and mpg. Though the motor is already suffereing lost power and mpg.

Sort of like how somebody puts +200,000km on an automatic transmission with zero servicing. They suddenly decide to service it and all the trash gets knocked loose. The transmission ends up needing an overhaul.

I have found with a good quality synthetic or good HDEO of the proper viscosity, I never have the engine deposits to worry about.

My 1984 Ford F-150 with 528,000km on it should be proof. The valvetrain and valvecovers are spotless. That was by running Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 from new, OCI every year or two.

Jerry
 
quote:

Originally posted by heyjay:

My 1984 Ford F-150 with 528,000km on it should be proof. The valvetrain and valvecovers are spotless. That was by running Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 from new, OCI every year or two.

Jerry


Hhmmmm . I guess I'm a bit lost in the time line of the Mobil Delvac 1 Synthetic that you have used since new " 1984 "....... I did not think they made it in 1984 or 1994 for that matter .

I learn something every day here at BITOG
wink.gif
 
quote:

My 1984 Ford F-150 with 528,000km on it should be proof. The valvetrain and valvecovers are spotless. That was by running Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 from new, OCI every year or two.

Wow if memory serves me right thats 330,000 miles. May i ask which engine you have in your F-150?? I have a 351W in my Ford E150 running a Motorguard and currently 0W-30 Amsoil. Wondering if I would get better protection with the Delvac 1 5W-40 stuff. I have a Motor Guard bypass and Amsoil FF filter. OCI was every 3k before i got the bypass.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Motorbike:

quote:

Originally posted by heyjay:

My 1984 Ford F-150 with 528,000km on it should be proof. The valvetrain and valvecovers are spotless. That was by running Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 from new, OCI every year or two.

Jerry


Hhmmmm . I guess I'm a bit lost in the time line of the Mobil Delvac 1 Synthetic that you have used since new " 1984 "....... I did not think they made it in 1984 or 1994 for that matter .

I learn something every day here at BITOG
wink.gif


I first became aware of Mobil Delvac 1 in 1978: my Uncle used to be a mechanic at the local school board and they took part in a field trial running Delvac 1. Excellent results.

I also have a dusty cardboard box full of Esso product data sheets. I'll read from A Lubrication Guide For Canadian Fleets: Under The Hood (1983)P.8:

"Delvac 1: In many parts of Canada its low temperature capability alone makes Delvac 1 worth the extra cost. Not only will this 5W-40 oil get you on your way at 40 below, it also behaves admirably at very high temperatures. Because Delvac 1 is fully synthetic ..."

You get the idea.

Jerry
 
quote:

Originally posted by therion:

quote:

My 1984 Ford F-150 with 528,000km on it should be proof. The valvetrain and valvecovers are spotless. That was by running Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 from new, OCI every year or two.

Wow if memory serves me right thats 330,000 miles. May i ask which engine you have in your F-150?? I have a 351W in my Ford E150 running a Motorguard and currently 0W-30 Amsoil. Wondering if I would get better protection with the Delvac 1 5W-40 stuff. I have a Motor Guard bypass and Amsoil FF filter. OCI was every 3k before i got the bypass.


I have the 302 V8 and C6 auto. I broke in the motor as follows:

1,000km: changed to regular 10W-30
3,000km: changed again to regular 10W-30
5,000km: changed to Mobil Delvac 1

Although I would change the oil filter twice a year, sometimes every 3 months in winter, the oil only got changed every year or two.

With the CI-4 reformulation, Delvac 1 is quite a bit thicker at low temps. I wish I had stocked up on the old stuff, it's perfect for an older vehicle.

I'm sure Amsoil will work very well for you to. It's very important to properly break-in a motor (Don't drive gently, work the thing)and switch very early, before all the deposits form.

The 302 isn't exactly a stellar motor to begin with. Many around here are sludged up after 3-4 years. The cold climate kills everything.

Jerry
 
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