oils that suck
- Thread starter moontan
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Quaker State, Proline, etc.
I don't think there's any proof that QS is in anyway a bad oil. Despite its being the number 2 seller, there's been little use on this board, but that doesn't mean it's inferior in any way. Reputationally at least QS is probably not quite as good as Pennzoil but is the equal of Castrol and probably better than Valvoline. QS synthetic is supposed to be PAO. In truth, after reading these boards I'm not convinced that any SL oil is a lot better than any other unless you stretch out the change intervals.
Years ago Quaker State. Not sure about todays Quaker State. While non-detergent have there place ie transmission of my TR3 you would not use them in any engine today. Recomended by owners manual for transmission of TR3.
Oils that are dirty and gritty suck.
Having no oil is worse than having bad oil.
Having no oil is worse than having bad oil.
yeah i dont think any Sl rated modern oil is "bad"
although warren seems to be the bottom of the barrel for SL oils.
although warren seems to be the bottom of the barrel for SL oils.
Ouch...."no oil" = "oils that suck"
I hate when that happens....
Which woudl be better, the worst and cheapest SL oil or your usual oil after 3000 miles? If the cheapo SL is better, then you may want to consider shorter OCIs, maybe using the cheapo oil.
there doesn't seem to be an oil out there that "suxs" any SL rated dino will make it to 3k oil change pretty easy. out of the SL rated dinos, there is great, good, ok. a consensus is pennzoil and chevron supreme to be among the great. Some have said that their engine consumed mobil drive clean like soup but it depends on the engine.
i found some oil at a dollar discount store called puma and it said on the back that the oil is approved for cars made before 1929.
oilcanboyd:
How much did they want for that Puma oil?
Heh. Something to put in a classic Dusenberg.
How much did they want for that Puma oil?
Heh. Something to put in a classic Dusenberg.
Avoid anything that does not carry the API starbusrt and SL rating.
I have QS 20w-50 in my 1973 pickup and planned on a UOA for you guys soon........Until gas went up over $2.00 a gallon.
Truck gets 6.1 mpg so it'l be a while till I get enough miles on it for the UOA. Only got 1000 miles on it so far.
Wait. I believe most 10w40s do not carry the starburst, nor do most of the so-called "high mileage" oils. I do think you have to watch the rating. SH may be better for higher ZDDP, but on other factors SL is probably best. So probably ok with just the SL and not to worry about the starburst?
Valvo Max Life 10w-30 has the API SJ/SL stuff.
As far as overrated AND mediocre, and for price, some of the full synthetics fall into that category. Browse through the UOA section and see that some of these oils, while commanding a premium price, often reveal less than mediocre results, indicating to me at least, they're not nearly capable of the drain intervals as advertised.
Yes it has the API doughnut with the SJ/SL service rating in it, but not the words "Energy Conserving" that is found on regular 10w30, such as Valvoline Durablend; nor does the Maxlife have the API starburst. I have seen "High Mileage" oil that does note even have the donut (Quaker State I think), but I believe somewhere on the can says it meets or exceeds the SJ rating (apparently they don't want to pay for the license to have the donut). And I certainly would not let the lack of starburst or donut stop me from buying an oil, provided I trusted the company to come through with the goods. I would not buy off-brand that way (or at all if I can help it). In fact, I make a point of not buying any oil with the starburst--all it means is you are buying a politically correct oil! The dount is OK though, but again not the PC Energy Conserving. To the PCs fuel economy comes before engine life.
[ March 03, 2004, 08:50 AM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]
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