Oiled undercarraige long term pics.

I drive an '03 Silverado 1500HD extended cab PU. It was used to launch and trailer a boat for many years. I also live in NJ where we have a brine-happy governor. He was unprepared for one of our first storms this winter so he has the roads brined even its supposed to be 40F and rainy, just in case!

The truck doesn't have a significant rust problem but it has developed large areas of surface rust, no rust through. I'm sure this is from the brining. What has been the experience with rust converters followed by painting? Do the converters really work and what are the best ones. I plan to do this in the spring if it's worth it.
 
Originally Posted by RDMgr
I drive an '03 Silverado 1500HD extended cab PU. It was used to launch and trailer a boat for many years. I also live in NJ where we have a brine-happy governor. He was unprepared for one of our first storms this winter so he has the roads brined even its supposed to be 40F and rainy, just in case!

The truck doesn't have a significant rust problem but it has developed large areas of surface rust, no rust through. I'm sure this is from the brining. What has been the experience with rust converters followed by painting? Do the converters really work and what are the best ones. I plan to do this in the spring if it's worth it.

GM trucks are factory coated with black wax. Petroleum products degrade and erode the wax. So any kind of petroleum-based oil spray is not recommended on GM waxed frames. Of course if all the wax is gone it doesn't really matter anymore. This is what I use on my truck it still has most of its factory wax. Rust converter on the left. Original frame wax aerosol on the right. And in the middle a wax that goes on everything else. Like brake lines. Bolts. Any kind of metal. Another thing I like about this method is things stay clean underneath. You don't get covered in greasy sand and soot every time you work underneath.

20181019_190953.jpg
 
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
Originally Posted by RDMgr
I drive an '03 Silverado 1500HD extended cab PU. It was used to launch and trailer a boat for many years. I also live in NJ where we have a brine-happy governor. He was unprepared for one of our first storms this winter so he has the roads brined even its supposed to be 40F and rainy, just in case!

The truck doesn't have a significant rust problem but it has developed large areas of surface rust, no rust through. I'm sure this is from the brining. What has been the experience with rust converters followed by painting? Do the converters really work and what are the best ones. I plan to do this in the spring if it's worth it.

GM trucks are factory coated with black wax. Petroleum products degrade and erode the wax. So any kind of petroleum-based oil spray is not recommended on GM waxed frames. Of course if all the wax is gone it doesn't really matter anymore. This is what I use on my truck it still has most of its factory wax. Rust converter on the left. Original frame wax aerosol on the right. And in the middle a wax that goes on everything else. Like brake lines. Bolts. Any kind of metal. Another thing I like about this method is things stay clean underneath. You don't get covered in greasy sand and soot every time you work underneath.


I totally agree that I've read you're not supposed to fluid film or oil that GM frame wax, however I have fluid filmed mine twice since new, no issues, and there's a train of thought that the fluid film or other products will keep the wax supple. And that's what I've found so far. And I personally know two other people that also do this.

The GM wax is horrible, as it doesn't cover everything underneath the truck (mine was starting to rust just sitting right on the dealer's lot). Couldn't believe it. And the wax comes off very very easily...a rock tossed up from a tire can remove it, a lift pad, anything that comes in contact with it. And after a few years it just dries right out and flies right off in large clumps.

I think the best alternative is to kind of build barriers as you go...a treatment, drive over a dusty road, another treatment, drive over a dusty road. Or apply your Nox Rust or RP-342 as frequently as you can...both are great products. I might try going this route next year, but I have five gallons of fluid Film sitting in my garage (I went a little over board, lol).
 
It looks good based on those pics! If the deal was right, that's a great find for a kid, winter beater or someone really in need. That 2005 would probably not still be on the road had it not been treated.
 
Well, things are not so good under the oil. Was hiding frame rot by the front lower control arm.

[Linked Image]


Welded a patch, added wax. Hopefully better results.

[Linked Image]
 
Not clear how oil was "hiding" it, that hole wouldn't be able to be hid... maybe a poorly affixed patch and spray undercoating, not oil.
 
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Not clear how oil was "hiding" it, that hole wouldn't be able to be hid... maybe a poorly affixed patch and spray undercoating, not oil.

The rust hole was plugged with soot, sand, and dirt that was stuck to the oil. Looked solid till I started spraying. Was either a bad application, only spraying from underneath. Or it was ineffective. Soot plugged the drains on that frame part. Either way there is rust under the oil. I mig welded a patch and gave it a heavy coat of wax for a more permanent durable anti-rust coating. Should hold for a few years which is about all that is required of a first car.
 
Originally Posted by Dinoburner

the latest genius idea in my part of NH is using small round stone and salt , think ball bearings that pelt the undercarriage viciously. People on dirt roads like it. We tried a hard brake test and it was no worse than plain sand/salt mix. We use a local shop for oiling on the 77 and 95 and there is no rust. The shop owner that rebuilt the auto trans on the 95 said he would think twice before doing another one.


I've seen those round balls of salt, I'll take those over the spray treatment they do now. Have you seen this stuff? Usually it's on the highways but I've seen them do side roads too. A truck is just spraying this brime right into the pavement...they say it's worse than the rock salt because the rock salt takes a little time to coat and get up into your frame, whereas the brine spray is instant and easily gets into all of the crevices and is instantly activated as a rust causing agent. Nasty stuff.
I don’t get it, I lived in Colorado and Utah, lots and lots of snow, no salt just sand and mag chloride. Cars look great underneath and driving didn’t feel any different than when I lived in the rust belt.
 
Bought a 2005 Malibu Classic yesterday. One of the selling points for me was the claim that the undercarriage had been oiled throughout its life. Took a few pics today to see if that was true and how effective the oiling was on 14 years of New England salt...

View attachment 9420

View attachment 9423

View attachment 9424

View attachment 9425

View attachment 9426
One of the things we used to dread on the prairies was coming upon a road crew applying a coat of "oil" on the highway. That could go on for miles and no matter how slowly you drove you ended up with that oil everywhere. Many of us spent hours getting it off.

But not my cousin. Now deceased, he was always big on folksy wisdom. He always said - "Drive as fast as possible, you're getting a free undercoating."
 
Back
Top