oil

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hi new on here I just bought a 2014 Nissan pathfinder and was thinking about what oil to run in it.. thinking about pennz plat....looking for some thoughts on it...thanks
 
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Any brand name oil in the specified grade will be fine. What does the dealer use for oil?
 
Is that 0w20? I had been impressed with Valvoline 0w20 Synpower for keeping our Subaru engine clean and the timing chain tensioners free - moreso than M1, QSUD or Idemitsu.
 
I dont know what to run in the Nissan for OCI #1 - the TOUGH One: the first one with no assy lube moly where the engine usually take a FIT saying "where's the Moly!!!" CLATTER CLATTER CLATTER!
I might just be mean and run PYB, QSGB and VSP mixed. I found in the Honda Fit that a Na-Xx DP oil (VSP) doesn't mind some MolyDTC - Even if just for top-off.
 
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thanks , it takes per the nissan spec 5w-30 . i can get the penz plat for $6.15 a qt threw our hardware dealership that we have in our store. and i change my own oil...thinking about running napa gold filters too ..i run them on everything else i have... so run the 3750 mi on factory oil then go to penz plat....what is everyones thoughts...
 
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I hope your engine does as well in your '14 as my '03 PathFinder has at over 152,000 miles.

I recommend changing the Factory Fill after 500 miles with any of the good quality synthetic oils on the market at the Severe Service intervals. Nissan V6's tend to run hot and can really beat up the oil.

Amsoil, Pennzoil, Mobil 1, Redline, Supertech are all good oils.
 
Any SN oil should work well for you, a popular syn like Penn. plat. for longer drains, I'd personally buy it at Walmart or somewhere on sale $22+ for 5qt jug right now. $6.15a quart is too expensive IMO.
 
Originally Posted By: bdodd4
i can get the penz plat for $6.15 a qt threw our hardware dealership that we have in our store. and i change my own oil...

I agree with the others... $6.15 is not a deal whatsoever

Any top synth is good !
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I dont know what to run in the Nissan for OCI #1 - the TOUGH One: the first one with no assy lube moly where the engine usually take a FIT saying "where's the Moly!!!" CLATTER CLATTER CLATTER!
I might just be mean and run PYB, QSGB and VSP mixed. I found in the Honda Fit that a Na-Xx DP oil (VSP) doesn't mind some MolyDTC - Even if just for top-off.


Arco, I sometimes think of you as the engine destroyer and other times as the engine whisperer.
Why not just use an oil with a decent moly content?
Our '12 Accord was perfectly fine in going from the FF to PP.
PP does contain moly, but nothing like as much as the FF with assembly lube.
It's now on its second run of HGMO SM, which contains even more moly that the FF I drained.
Smooth and quiet, but not much more than it was on PP. Fuel economy might be a smidge better.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Arco, I sometimes think of you as the engine destroyer and other times as the engine whisperer.

Engines already have extensive durability. Could you imagine if the manufacturers could contract with Arco and make engines that withstand his regimen? Engines would never have to be manufactured again. The OEMs could just go to junkyards and retrieve used engines and repurpose them.
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No doubt.
When I think of all the miles we've run on all of the engines that we've had with no failures at all, I marvel at the basic durability of them.
Even a cheap splash lubed OPE is remarkably durable in my experience.
 
Exactly. I mentioned in another thread how I borrowed a buddy's lawnmower when mine had some carb issues a few weeks back. He was going on about how important it is to change oil in them. I told him that as long as he kept it topped up with something of even semi-reasonable viscosity and service category, the engine would greatly outlast the fuel delivery system. He'll spend more on carb service than engine rebuilds, as will I. The Canadian branch of the OEM wanted more for the carb alone than did the U.S. branch of the OEM for the entire engine. Fortunately, I was able to get away with not replacing the carb.
 
Went to Wally World and looked at the bottom of the qt. and 5 qt. jugs. ROYAL PURPLE qt. had G in rectangle, 5 qt. jug had nothing; MOBIL-1 and MOBIL SUPER had G in rectangle; CASTROL had BP and G in rectangle; VALVOLINE had G in rectangle; PENNZOIL had G in rectangle; QUAKER STATE had G in rectangle; SUPER TECH in conventional oil had WSE and synthetic had WPP and the last one checked was MOTORCRAFT synthetic blend had Lee inside a Q. Would these be the symbols for who makes the oil? Everybody make it a great day and I await your replies. Thank You.
 
Originally Posted By: StringerOne
Went to Wally World and looked at the bottom of the qt. and 5 qt. jugs. ROYAL PURPLE qt. had G in rectangle, 5 qt. jug had nothing; MOBIL-1 and MOBIL SUPER had G in rectangle; CASTROL had BP and G in rectangle; VALVOLINE had G in rectangle; PENNZOIL had G in rectangle; QUAKER STATE had G in rectangle; SUPER TECH in conventional oil had WSE and synthetic had WPP and the last one checked was MOTORCRAFT synthetic blend had Lee inside a Q. Would these be the symbols for who makes the oil? Everybody make it a great day and I await your replies. Thank You.


No, it is not who makes the oil. I believe it is a code that indicates the type of liquid the plastic is made to contain. I thought it was a numbering system (1-6) but there may now be alpha characters being used.
 
Lonestar: The identification number for the plastic was on all the bottles and jugs. The triangle with a 2 for HDPE (high density polyethylene) was on the bottom of the containers. I suspect that motor oil, much the same way that gasoline, is now made by a few refineries left in the USA. The C, G, Q, WPP, and WSE are the manufacturers for a lot of major brand oils as well as big box store brands. Does anybody know the manufacture of C, G, Q; the WPP and WSE stand for warren. Have a great day, StringerOne signing off.
 
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