OMG I have another question related to crud buildup on my GDI intake valves. I'm beginning to question if maybe the folks who experience excessive buildup aren't taking proper actions to address the issue. Assuming that a well known synthetic motor oil is used along with Tier 1 gas, a 3k mile OCI and clean injectors, would any of the detergents contained therein make their way along with other combustion byproducts blown into the crankcase onto the intake valves and actually lessen or even eliminate buildup? In some cases on other forums I am seeing an almost panic settling in among new GDI owners. Is it maybe not such a big deal with proper maintenance?
oil volatility
- Thread starter RetiredSux
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I'm trying a few different things to combat the carbon issues on my direct injected engine.
I shortened my oil change intervals to 5,000 miles.
I installed a catch can - seems to catch quite a bit - definitely more in the winter due to condensation, so I have to keep an eye on it and keep it emptied every couple weeks. It can be a little bit of a pain. Not for everyone.
And I'm trying to spray some kind of cleaner through the intake every 5,000 miles or so.
I figure...hey, non of the stuff I'm trying is going to hurt anything.
I shortened my oil change intervals to 5,000 miles.
I installed a catch can - seems to catch quite a bit - definitely more in the winter due to condensation, so I have to keep an eye on it and keep it emptied every couple weeks. It can be a little bit of a pain. Not for everyone.
And I'm trying to spray some kind of cleaner through the intake every 5,000 miles or so.
I figure...hey, non of the stuff I'm trying is going to hurt anything.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
(In terms of Dexos1/Gen2 / SN plus oils, keep your dipstick oil clear for (almost) 2K of your last OCI. That's the best indicator of a clean, used engine.
I am currently at 2K of a new Hyundai engine/vehicle. The factory-fill, dipstick oil is still clear. I plan on keeping it that way for 2K of every 5K OCI.
Please everyone, don't tell me oil color doesn't matter, using 5w30 oils. I've been driving vehicles for 52 years. I operated under this method for all 52. Matters-not if it's Castrol, Mobil, Valvoline, Motorcraft/Kendall, Chevron/Havoline, Quaker State or Pennzoil/Shell, which are the only oils I've ever used, running either 5/10w30s for 52 years.
This Hyundai is my first-ever venture into buying a vehicle that uses 5w20 at the factory.... and that venture won't ever reach past 5-10K of my new vehicle's lifetime. I'm a thickereee.
I am currently at 2K of a new Hyundai engine/vehicle. The factory-fill, dipstick oil is still clear. I plan on keeping it that way for 2K of every 5K OCI.
Please everyone, don't tell me oil color doesn't matter, using 5w30 oils. I've been driving vehicles for 52 years. I operated under this method for all 52. Matters-not if it's Castrol, Mobil, Valvoline, Motorcraft/Kendall, Chevron/Havoline, Quaker State or Pennzoil/Shell, which are the only oils I've ever used, running either 5/10w30s for 52 years.
This Hyundai is my first-ever venture into buying a vehicle that uses 5w20 at the factory.... and that venture won't ever reach past 5-10K of my new vehicle's lifetime. I'm a thickereee.
Triple_Se7en,
If you read your om, it may allow 5Wx30 or 10Wx30 so your 52 years can continue without interruption
Our Hyundai had 5Wx20 and 5Wx20 stickers ... but OM had a temp chart allowing 5-10Wx30.
IF they filled with 5Wx20 to begin with (kind of doubt it based on what I've seen dealers do using bulk ...), that would be the first & last car had any x20.
If I was to use any x20, it would be 0Wx20.
If you read your om, it may allow 5Wx30 or 10Wx30 so your 52 years can continue without interruption
Our Hyundai had 5Wx20 and 5Wx20 stickers ... but OM had a temp chart allowing 5-10Wx30.
IF they filled with 5Wx20 to begin with (kind of doubt it based on what I've seen dealers do using bulk ...), that would be the first & last car had any x20.
If I was to use any x20, it would be 0Wx20.
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