Oil to use in 2002 Pathfinder LE

[Titleist Tim]

First of all let me say that this is my first post in this forum that I have enjoyed very much. I have a 02 Pathfinder LE with 7000 miles on it. I am convinced I should switch to M1 synthetic, but should I use 5/30 or 10/30 and is it ok to use oem oil filter with it. I still have 10 free oil changes coming from the dealer so I will have to take the oil to them. I live in Illinois. All of your professional advice and comments are appriciated. Thanks

 

[buster]

I would use a 0w-30 from Mobil all year round. Great oil.

 

[MolaKule]

I assume you have the V-6 engine. When did you last change your oil and what have been your oil change intervals to-date. What is your driving style? My philosophy is to do oil changes according to the severe service schedule until the drive train is out of warranty. I would use the 10W30 viscosity if your owner's manual allows it.

 

[monarch]

You should always let the Nissan engineers be your guide. The Nissan engineers have the oil viscosities they recommend at different temperatures listed in your owners manual. Probably 5W-30. Use Nissan oil, air and fuel filters as well as Nissan coolant and tune up parts and follow the service frequency intervals listed in your maintainance schedule for severe service. This will provide you with hundreds of thousands of troublefree miles. Nissans routinely deliver hundreds of thousands of miles regardless if synthetic or dino oils are used. The main reason to use synthetic is the convenience of being able to go 5000 - 7500 miles between oil change intervals instead of 3000-5000. The owners that get into trouble are the ones who think they know better than Nissan engineers and use aftermarket filters, tune up parts, coolants, oil additives, don't follow factory tune up specs. etc.

 

[OneQuartLow]

The advice of owners manuals would be more useful if engineers wrote them, and if they weren't subject to the API/EPA & manufacturer politics which have goals largely in conflict with those of equipment owners. The manual is a fair starting place, but oil performance and experience are better guides. Monarch, if you're interested, owners manual recommendations have been discussed extensively in the archives. David

 

[monarch]

Nissan sells automobiles throughout the world. If you check the owners manuals of Nissans sold in other countries where there is no "API / EPA" you will see the maintainence intructions pretty much mirror those that are given in USA manuals. The only differences I have found is a tendency to require slightly more frequent lubricant change intervals. I don't understand why a Japanese car owner should care whether or not $1.50 a gallon Brand X dino oil shows 20% more wear metals in an oil analysis than Brand Y synthetic because Nissan engines are going to last 400,000+ miles anyway (assuming all owners manual maintainance is performed on schedule using mostly genuine Nissan parts and fluids).

 

[Patman]

My father has an Infiniti QX4, which is basically a Pathfinder with fancy stuff on it, and he uses Mobil 1 at 6-7k intervals. In the winter he runs 5w30, but the rest of the year he runs 10w30.

 

[Pops]

quote:

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Originally posted by monarch: Nissan sells automobiles throughout the world. If you check the owners manuals of Nissans sold in other countries where there is no "API / EPA" you will see the maintainence intructions pretty much mirror those that are given in USA manuals. The only differences I have found is a tendency to require slightly more frequent lubricant change intervals. I don't understand why a Japanese car owner should care whether or not $1.50 a gallon Brand X dino oil shows 20% more wear metals in an oil analysis than Brand Y synthetic because Nissan engines are going to last 400,000+ miles anyway (assuming all owners manual maintainance is performed on schedule using mostly genuine Nissan parts and fluids).

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Sorry but IMO that would be insane to 1. Use overpriced Nissan fluids and filters for the life of the car or truck-the oil filter might be a good choice though . 2. Using 3500 mile intervals at 400k the oil and filter would be changed 114.28 times so a synthetic oil is the logical choice there and the engine will be cleaner inside over time because the synthetic will not break down from heat as easily leaving less deposits to build on. I beleive a 400k Nissan ran on a synthetic oil will make more HP than one ran on dino because of this . Some of these newer motors are making quite a bit of HP for their size and are tough on a mineral oil if used for extended periods of drains per some owners manuals and I really think a synthetic oil is the way to go for some of the oil killing machines JIMHO . Airfilters: If a aftermarket airfilter is used for 400k the money saved from not buying a overpriced dealer air filter would buy most of the oil alone for the life of the car or truck. The dealers are a good place to buy cars then leave and try to not ever go back IMO

 

[MolaKule]

I use Amsoil Filters and Mobil 1 10W30 in my Nissan 2.0 L DOHC frontier. Why? Because the user's manual allows using oil weights all the way up to 10W40 and because the Nissan filters are too small for conventional wrenches and more expensive than Amsoil's.

 

[TooSlick]

I'd run the M1, 0w-30 if you expect the temps for the next oil change interval to be < 50F and I'd run the M1, 10w-30 if you expect the ambient temps to be >50F ....That combination will get you the best extreme temp performance and fuel efficiency. I should add that this is really being AR about the whole thing and you could also run the M1, 5w-30 year round. So if you can buy it in bulk at a discount - as in those 5 quart jugs - forget my advice and do that .... TS

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by monarch: Deep discounts on dealer fluids and filters are available online to the point where OEM prices are about the same as Pep Boys and Napa type places. So arguments about "overpriced dealer parts" are no longer valid. While synthetic oils keep the insides of an engine cleaner, I am unaware of any data showing the slight varnish type deposits left in an engine by dino oils would compromise the ability of a Japanese motor to attain 400,000+ miles. In 400,000 miles of driving, one would spend about $25,000 on gasoline, assuming 25 miles per gallon. If an owner changes the OEM air filter 30 times at a cost of $10 each, that = only $300.00 which is a trivial expense, especially when you consider and OEM filter doesn't need to be washed and that there is no controversy about its ability to filter extremely well.

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Just exactly what is it your selling?

 

[dragboat]

quote:

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Originally posted by monarch: Deep discounts on dealer fluids and filters are available online to the point where OEM prices are about the same as Pep Boys and Napa type places. So arguments about "overpriced dealer parts" are no longer valid. While synthetic oils keep the insides of an engine cleaner, I am unaware of any data showing the slight varnish type deposits left in an engine by dino oils would compromise the ability of a Japanese motor to attain 400,000+ miles. In 400,000 miles of driving, one would spend about $25,000 on gasoline, assuming 25 miles per gallon. If an owner changes the OEM air filter 30 times at a cost of $10 each, that = only $300.00 which is a trivial expense, especially when you consider and OEM filter doesn't need to be washed and that there is no controversy about its ability to filter extremely well.

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Thanks but no thanks because I will buy panel and round filters localy for 3-5 bucks and the same about oil filters for less money 1.97 Supertech 2.99 Motorcraft,1.97 Pennzoil,2.50 Phillips "Wix" and in the mean time keep the guy/gal working behind the counter a job to help feed his/her kids however I am in the market for some factory motor oil for a Toyota 2-TC motor. What ya got and how much is it ?

 

[Chris]

[/QUOTE]Just exactly what is it your selling? Nissan parts to help his company stock?

 

[monarch]

Deep discounts on dealer fluids and filters are available online to the point where OEM prices are about the same as Pep Boys and Napa type places. So arguments about "overpriced dealer parts" are no longer valid. While synthetic oils keep the insides of an engine cleaner, I am unaware of any data showing the slight varnish type deposits left in an engine by dino oils would compromise the ability of a Japanese motor to attain 400,000+ miles. In 400,000 miles of driving, one would spend about $25,000 on gasoline, assuming 25 miles per gallon. If an owner changes the OEM air filter 30 times at a cost of $10 each, that = only $300.00 which is a trivial expense, especially when you consider and OEM filter doesn't need to be washed and that there is no controversy about its ability to filter extremely well.

 

[Titleist Tim]

Thanks for all of your responses. Is it safe to put M1 5/30 in an engine with 7000 miles on it? Should I wait until it is broken in more, maybe 10k to 15k miles? 2002 Nissan Pathfinder LE, 3.5 v-6 engine.

 

[Patman]

By 7k you should be more than safe. Like I mentioned above, my father has that engine in his 2001 Infiniti QX4 and I believe he changed over to Mobil 1 at around 3k. He's now at about 40 or 50k I believe, and the thing runs great and I'm pretty sure he doesn't burn any oil betweeen changes. [ November 26, 2002, 08:09 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]

 

[joee12]

quote:

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Originally posted by monarch: Deep discounts on dealer fluids and filters are available online to the point where OEM prices are about the same as Pep Boys and Napa type places. So arguments about "overpriced dealer parts" are no longer valid. While synthetic oils keep the insides of an engine cleaner, I am unaware of any data showing the slight varnish type deposits left in an engine by dino oils would compromise the ability of a Japanese motor to attain 400,000+ miles. In 400,000 miles of driving, one would spend about $25,000 on gasoline, assuming 25 miles per gallon. If an owner changes the OEM air filter 30 times at a cost of $10 each, that = only $300.00 which is a trivial expense, especially when you consider and OEM filter doesn't need to be washed and that there is no controversy about its ability to filter extremely well.

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Monarch, can you send me the links to these sites via a private message? I want to see how much of a "discount" my buddy at the Acura dealer is really giving me?? -Joe [ November 26, 2002, 08:14 PM: Message edited by: joee12 ]

 

[monarch]

Mobil has been telling us for years the idea that their synthetic oil interferes with engine break in is a great myth. Mobil has always advised owners to use synthetic right off the showroon floor. I followed Mobil's advice and put in Mobil 1 10W-30 when my'92 Toyota pickup was brand new. 417,000 miles later I cannot find any signs of significant wear in the engine yet. I have come to trust Mobil synthetics.

 

[satterfi]

quote:

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Originally posted by monarch: I followed Mobil's advice and put in Mobil 1 10W-30 when my'92 Toyota pickup was brand new. 417,000 miles later I cannot find any signs of significant wear in the engine yet. I have come to trust Mobil synthetics.

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You're schizoid. In one post you say OEM fluids ONLY, then this post you say M1 for 417K. You cann't do both.

 

[dragboat]

satterfli check this post out monarch Member Member # 602 posted November 25, 2002 12:49 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Red Line MT-90 has very noticably improved the shifting performance in a wide variety of front and rear wheel drive Toyotas I''ve tried it in compared to dino GL-4 gear oil and compared to Mobil 1 75W-90 gear oil -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Posts: 31 | From: California | Registered: Nov 2002 | IP: Logged