Oil To Reduce NOx

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Front Range, Colorado
Looking to reduce my NOx.
I know I can replace the O2's and cats but that will cost more than the Land Cruiser is worth.

I use to use G-Oil to reduce my emissions for emission testing 2 years ago.
G-Oil must be going under as no one sells it and what is left is very pricey with shipping.
G-Oil claims "Provide significant reductions in HC (hydrocarbons -32%), CO (carbon monoxide -48%) and NOx (nitrous oxides -80% emissions"

My NOx needs to go down from 5.3 PPM to 4 PPM.

Motor does use oil, 94 Land Cruiser has 457,000 mi on it.
I am running Delo400 LE Syn 5w40 with one bottle Motor Oil Saver Liqui-Moly.
What is the base oil for Delo400 LE Syn 5w40?

From my research.
"Certain base oil types are more susceptible to nitration than others. Base oils with saturated hydrocarbon structures, such as polyalphaolefin (PAO) synthetics and hydrotreated paraffinic oils, seem to be less prone to nitration. Lower viscosity base oils and viscosity index improver additives used in some multigrade oils may be more likely to experience nitration."

Would I be better with a straight weight heaver weight oil like a 50w or 60w oil?
In summer I run 15w40 HDMO with 2 bottles of Motor Oil Saver. Its an 8qt sump. So my oil is much heaver with added Motor Oil Saver.

I use to run Liqui Moly 10w40 mos2 with 1 or 2 bottle of Motor Oil Saver but Napa increased the price and was too thick for winter use. This combo reduced my start up smoke better than other combo. The start up smoke with Rotella T6 5w40 and Delo 400 LE 5w40 is not bad but not as good as the MOS2 oil. Not sure if its the MOS2 in the oil that helped or its the type of base oil that Liqui Moly uses?

I am going to do a catalytic converter cleaning with citric and oxalic acid maybe this weekend. Had good luck with it 2 years ago but still had to use the G-Oil to get the NOx down enough to pass.
 
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NOx cant be reduced by oil. Evens thin oil thst may reduce component temps wont reduce the combustion temperatures enough to drop nox.
 
Check EGR valve for proper operation.Oil isn't the answer.
 
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See if you can get Delo 400 Multigrade 15W-40 where you are. Its a mineral oil and slightly heavier at startup.

I have aa 1992 Toyota Landcruiser 80 series with a 1HZ motor. It has over 410,000km. The engine has never been apart. Compression still meets factory specs. The oil never moves off the full mark. Runs beautifully. Delo 400 multi grade and Fleet guard filter every 5000km
 
Not worried about oil being cat safe. Been using mostly Rotella T6 HDMO for last 240,000 mi. I am aware that the ZDDP is coating the cats and O2's. Last 100,000 is has been using lots of oil so the cats and O2's have a constant spray of cooked HDMO thus why doing a cat and O2 cleaning helps me pass emission test.

The EGR is working fine.

The 80 is on its last leg and if anything major (over $1000) will put it in the salvage yard. I just need it till I get a new job and get another used vehicle but my license plates expire end of Jan.
 
Colder thermostat, extremely strng concentrated dose of SI1, fuel with less BTU and less ignition timing.

But NOX comes from cylinder pressure and cylinder temperature, which are exactly what make us go fast.
 
Originally Posted By: Jabbo
You could also try Havoline 20W-50. Its safe for use with CAT's.


This and the 15w-40 you mention will create more viscous losses (heat) in the engine. Thats counter to nox reduction.
 
Originally Posted By: landtoy80
Looking to reduce my NOx.
I know I can replace the O2's and cats but that will cost more than the Land Cruiser is worth.

I use to use G-Oil to reduce my emissions for emission testing 2 years ago.
G-Oil must be going under as no one sells it and what is left is very pricey with shipping.
G-Oil claims "Provide significant reductions in HC (hydrocarbons -32%), CO (carbon monoxide -48%) and NOx (nitrous oxides -80% emissions"

My NOx needs to go down from 5.3 PPM to 4 PPM.

Motor does use oil, 94 Land Cruiser has 457,000 mi on it.
I am running Delo400 LE Syn 5w40 with one bottle Motor Oil Saver Liqui-Moly.
What is the base oil for Delo400 LE Syn 5w40?

From my research.
"Certain base oil types are more susceptible to nitration than others. Base oils with saturated hydrocarbon structures, such as polyalphaolefin (PAO) synthetics and hydrotreated paraffinic oils, seem to be less prone to nitration. Lower viscosity base oils and viscosity index improver additives used in some multigrade oils may be more likely to experience nitration."

Would I be better with a straight weight heaver weight oil like a 50w or 60w oil?
In summer I run 15w40 HDMO with 2 bottles of Motor Oil Saver. Its an 8qt sump. So my oil is much heaver with added Motor Oil Saver.

I use to run Liqui Moly 10w40 mos2 with 1 or 2 bottle of Motor Oil Saver but Napa increased the price and was too thick for winter use. This combo reduced my start up smoke better than other combo. The start up smoke with Rotella T6 5w40 and Delo 400 LE 5w40 is not bad but not as good as the MOS2 oil. Not sure if its the MOS2 in the oil that helped or its the type of base oil that Liqui Moly uses?

I am going to do a catalytic converter cleaning with citric and oxalic acid maybe this weekend. Had good luck with it 2 years ago but still had to use the G-Oil to get the NOx down enough to pass.





Good luck on this one. You want to lower 1.3PPM? That's in parts per million. Is that even calculable or measurable? LOL Got to be in the fudge factor area for sure.
 
Oil is a hydrocarbon. Nox is from high temperatures. It is EGR or timing or a lean condition.
 
Originally Posted By: landtoy80
From my research.
"Certain base oil types are more susceptible to nitration than others. Base oils with saturated hydrocarbon structures, such as polyalphaolefin (PAO) synthetics and hydrotreated paraffinic oils, seem to be less prone to nitration. Lower viscosity base oils and viscosity index improver additives used in some multigrade oils may be more likely to experience nitration."


That's nitration degradation of the oil, not NOx per se.

As others have posted, NOx is a reaction that occurs between components in the air (Nitrogen and Oxygen) at high temperatures...it's a fast forward, slow backward reaction FWIW.

Another source, and unlikely here, but industrially is if there's nitrogen in the fuel, but that's more applicable to bunker fuels and coal.
 
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