Oil Temp Gauges, Location, Temps, and Sumps

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I use a Raytek ST60 XB on my aluminum oil pans. But you have to be careful to use the correct emissivity coefficent for different surfaces.

You could use something like the Raytek MiniTemp MT4 ($79) to take various readings, e.g. oil pan, filter, etc. Use masking tape, flat black paint, or correct using the proper emissivity coefficent.
 
Thanks for the responses 427Z06!

Anyone have any comments on the other questions? I'm doing information gathering here people!
smile.gif


Should I ponder this question on another forum subsection?
 
Here's a quick and dirty on some of your questions.

1.) It will vary to some extent depending engine design, how the oil is routed, if it's routed next to water jackets, etc. The oil pump will heat the oil somewhat due to the friction of pumping the oil, but I don't think it would be more than a few degrees at most.

2.) 250F would be an upper limit I'd like to see in the oil temp for prolonged periods. Any more than this, and I'd look for a quality oil cooler with a thermostat. A poor man's solution is to run a higher viscosity oil but make sure the oil is up to operating temperature (~180F) before running it hard.

3.) I'd shop around the internet to see what's out there. Some home fabrication may be required.

4.) As far as hoses, clamps and such, if done correctly, you could go many years without having a problem or leak. Many stock cars equiped with oil coolers that have roughly the same number of hoses and clamps and such, as an aftermarket kit would.

Hope that helps.
 
Sometimes even just something simple like having your stock cooling fans coming on at a lower temperature can make a huge difference. In my 98 Corvette I've had the cooling fans set to run all the time when the car is at lower speeds, and my oil temps are usually right around 200F in heavy traffic. At highway speeds they are closer to 205-207.

I don't road race mine though, so if I did I'm sure I'd see much higher temps than I see now.

FWIW, before I had the fans set to come on sooner, I'd see over 220F coolant and oil temps when stuck in traffic. My transmission oil temps would also get that hot too, but now my trans oil temps stay well below 200 (usually around 185)

I'm a sucker for good instrumentation, which is one of the things I love about my C5, is that it gives me the oil, coolant and trans temps in the driver information center.
 
Patman, your trick would also work as long the racing was for a short duration as you would of effectively created a resevoir of cool water in the radiator. However, if the racing is for an extended amount of time, all the heat production eventually catch up with you. Also, you probably use a couple of HP to drive the fans all the time, something that might be useful in a race.
 
Hey Guys,

I have a variety of (hopefully quick questions) you all can go over really quick. First off I search the begezus outta the forum looking for answers, and here's the main links I found (for those looking for more information)...

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=000196#000000
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=005364#000014
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005366
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000427

Here's the situation. A number of Mazda 6 owners (3.0 V6 Duratec platform, 5w-20 recommended oil) have begun installing gauges in their cars. One individual installed an oil temp gauge and got some readings.

He ran the gauge off an oil filter sandwich, which went to the sender. The temps he is reporting is 240-260F driving around "aggressively". The oil actually sits in the 200-210 range just at idle.

According to the other threads...this is pretty hot. It would appear that around 200F is optimal, with most thermostats opening around 180-190F (For the oil coolers).

Here's my questions.

1) Is there a significant difference in temp between the oil filter and sump? Is getting the oil temp from the filter possibly throwing a hotter reading then it would from the sump?

2) Is a 250F temp off the oil filter high enough to be concerned with having to possibly cool down the oil with an auxilary cooler?

General coolant temp is around 195F

3) Is anyone aware of a cooler package which includes a built in thermostat? Looking at the amount of plumbing required to do...
a) cooler
b) thermostat for the cooler
c) Oil temp sender

This throws a whole lot of hose clamps all over the place, which I'd like to avoid if possible.

4) Is there another method of verifying these temps without installing a gauge? I've seen mention of infared thermo's and thermo tape...would would be the best area to target to get some decent temp readings?

Any additional information would be quite helpful, thanks in advance!
 
quote:

Originally posted by 427Z06:
Patman, your trick would also work as long the racing was for a short duration as you would of effectively created a resevoir of cool water in the radiator. However, if the racing is for an extended amount of time, all the heat production eventually catch up with you. Also, you probably use a couple of HP to drive the fans all the time, something that might be useful in a race.

I've thought of both of those issues, but for the type of driving I do, it seems this easy trick is the way to go.
 
Thanks for all the information fellas. It seems that the mazda tribute (same 3.0 V6 duratec block) uses a sandwich adapter on the oil filter assembly to run an oil cooler which has a built in thermostat for 180F +/- 10F. Were going to try and adapt this to the 6s and write a little how to article, and see how the temps are effected.

Were working on using 427Z06's suggestions to get a better spread of temps across the line...regardless this could help to explain some of the engine heatsoak issues were all experiencing, as it definitely seems the car is much peppier around 210F as opposed to 250F oil temps.
 
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