Oil suggestions for my Lesabre.

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Well I'm fairly confident with my oil choice, but I thought I'd run it by some of the knowledgable people here. Here' my situation:

My car is an '87 Buick Lesabre T-type. The engine is a '97 Supercharged 3800 from a Grand Prix. The engine has about 60,000 miles on it, only about 15,000 of that is from me. I drive the car only in summer, and it is not my daily driver, but I drive it to work ocasionally. I race it in the quarter mile once and a while, and it's modified. I don't think I'll put more than 5,000 on it per year. So far I've used Mobil 1 10w30, and changed it only once or twice a year. I have to start it once and while in the winter to move it out of the garage, but it is never driven in winter.

I'm a little concerned about the sitting time. I like the Mobil 1 for the protection from the high stress and heat this motor sees, but I can't aford to change it all the time. Any other suggestions?

-T
 
Mobil 0w-40 SuperSyn changed once per year would do well I believe . Might want to change oil early spring.. then the filter again and top off after the summer season .

This oil is what smaller oils wanna be when they grow up
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[ March 02, 2004, 09:59 AM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
 
I only got two runs down the track last year, and I have more modifications planned this year, but my current best is a 14.44@97 with a poor launch.

Motorbike, what would be the advantage of the 0-40 over the 10w30?

thanks,
-Keith
 
I'd even consider a 15W-50, like M1 for as little as it runs, but when you do run it, you run the fire out of it. The supercharger puts more pressure on your wrist pins and bearings, you'd want a little more protection IMHO. However, the 3.8l and it's 3.3l cousin, is one of the best engines GM has ever made. They are bullet proof. Many members here have had the car fall apart before the engine ever did.
 
15w-40 or 5w-40 HDEO. Would be superior for the times you start it just to move it in the winter (5w-40), which would help with corossion and such. Rotella synthetic would be perfect IMO for a rarely driven vehicle in MN.
 
I don't know if she'd start in the winter if I ran 15w50 in it. Should I swap in some dino 5w30 for the winter? I'm cautious about the very heavy oils. This is probably a whole new topic but I think that heavy weight oils have their downsides too.(less splash lubrication, lower flow, ect.) But I've noticed M1 10w30 seems to be a thinner 30 weight.

-T
 
Find someone who works at an auto parts place and stock up on mobil 0w40 (I get mine 2.00$/qt)

Rand
 
quote:

Originally posted by T-Keith:
Well I'm fairly confident with my oil choice, but I thought I'd run it by some of the knowledgable people here. Here' my situation:

My car is an '87 Buick Lesabre T-type. The engine is a '97 Supercharged 3800 from a Grand Prix. The engine has about 60,000 miles on it, only about 15,000 of that is from me. I drive the car only in summer, and it is not my daily driver, but I drive it to work ocasionally. I race it in the quarter mile once and a while, and it's modified. I don't think I'll put more than 5,000 on it per year. So far I've used Mobil 1 10w30, and changed it only once or twice a year. I have to start it once and while in the winter to move it out of the garage, but it is never driven in winter.

I'm a little concerned about the sitting time. I like the Mobil 1 for the protection from the high stress and heat this motor sees, but I can't aford to change it all the time. Any other suggestions?

-T


Mobil1 10w-30 is a fine oil, but I prefer maximum protection, and the easiest way of achieving this is having an oil with a nice, good viscosity, high HT/HS numbers, and a good additive package.

I frequently state that by all means, and I don't think anyone will argue with me here...a fluid/hydrodynamic film is the best form of engine lubrication, and this alone is why, at the bare minimum, I want an oil with a high HT/HS.

Also, in terms of long-term storage protection, picking an oil with a dose of molybdenum in the additive package will provide a layer of boundary lubrication (after engine has been used and moly has been "taken up") after extended periods of sittin' around...
 
I've been running GC in my Grand Prix, although I just have an L36, not L67. It seems to like it. It's a thicker 30 weight than some, and it'll still start even in sub zero weather.
 
No GC here guys.
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How about the new truck & SUV M1? Jelly, would some Havoline 5w30 be a good bet for winter, it has some moly?

I drove it around the block last night. I noticed the oil pressure was a lot higher than in the summer. Has my oil thickened up a lot or what? It was only about 32deg, and I ran it up to operating temperature.

Keep 'em coming guys.
-T
 
quote:

Originally posted by T-Keith:
No GC here guys.
dunno.gif
How about the new truck & SUV M1? Jelly, would some Havoline 5w30 be a good bet for winter, it has some moly?

I drove it around the block last night. I noticed the oil pressure was a lot higher than in the summer. Has my oil thickened up a lot or what? It was only about 32deg, and I ran it up to operating temperature.

Keep 'em coming guys.
-T


Molybdenum is a great additive in modern-day oils, but don't think of it as some "uber-additive" that can solve everything...while it does offer a boundary layer of lubrication after being "taken-up", I still think the main benefit is its ability to reduce consumption by means of improving the ring/cylinder seal.

I simply will not recommend mineral-based PCEO's...while they can give good wear results in "normal" driving and on "normal" drain intervals, they can't keep an engine clean. HDEO's offer much better wear protection and engine cleanliness...

You said that the car doesn't get driven in winter, and with that in mind, If you're going to use a mineral-based oil, I can only recommend a HDEO, and among the HDEO's, I'd recommend Mobil Delvac 1300, which is available for $6/gallon.

Being this car is garage kept, and as long as temperatures are above 5F or so, I'd recommend the Delvac 1300 year-round.

Although it sounds like I'm talking out of both sides of my mouth here, I'll also recommend Rotella-T 5w-40, as well as D1 5w-40, m1 15w-50, and group IV/V synthetics from Redline and Amsoil.

[ March 03, 2004, 11:41 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
 
I only have the L36. I like Castrol Syntec and Mobil 1 10W-30 myself. Both are at the thinner side as you know. I have yet to be convinced or see any conclusive evidence that these engines like something "thicker," or will get better protection.

Let me know guys if you have contrary information.

I'm not convinced that you could do any better than what you are already doing.

Moving up much in viscosity probably won't help your numbers at all. I can't comment on the M1 0W-40 though, it might be more friction modified.
dunno.gif
 
Jelly, the reason I asked about the moly, is you recomended it for winter time. The car must start in -20, as the garage is unheated. And I don't want to pay alot of money for oil that will just sit in the crankcase all winter.
-T
 
Geezzz, I didn't think you were talking about temperatures that cold!

Given those temperatures, completely disregard my Delvac 1300 recommendation.

With that said, I still can't recommend a mineral-based PCEO.

I don't think you're gonna find an oil that protects well (HDEO's or synthetics) with a low price tag...is $12/gallon inexpensive enough though?

If so, I recommend Rotella-T 5w-40.

[ March 03, 2004, 12:04 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
 
Thanks for all the help.

I don't mine paying more for good oil for the summer, I'm running M1 right now. I just don't want to waist it on the winter months.

As far as Rotella T syn, what advantages does this have over a another similar weight oil, like M1? Keep in mind I have an O2 sensor that is critical.

-T
 
Ok, I got the idea that you didn't want to spend much on an oil, and with Rotella 5w-40 only costing $12, I figured it would be the way to go...

Why are you worried about your o2 sensor with the Rotella??

I guess I'm different that most people in regards to what I want from oils...simply put, I want maximum engine protection and engine cleanliness.

With that in mind, I don't care much for M1 10w-30. People get caught up on the viscosity, but I'd pick M1 15w-50 before I ran the the 10w-30, and our own member Heyjay has shown that this weight does fine in (certain) modern engines, by running this in his late model 5.3L V-8.

Summer Use:
G IV/V synthetics - Redline, Delvac 1, Amsoil, M1 15w-50, etc, etc...

Winter Use:
Rotella 5w-40...least expensive oil that will offer cold-pump performance and good engine protection and cleanliness.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Thomas Pyrek:
Just curious, why do you not like the Delvac 1 in the winter? It's a 5w-40, correct?

I do, but T-Keith said that he didn't want to spend a bunch on a "winter oil", and Rotella-T 5w-40 is 1/2 as much as Delvac 1.
 
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