Oil Suggestion for 81 302 V8

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2,231
Location
SE MI
I'm almost out of quaker state dino 10W-40 so I was wondering if anyone could help out: 1981 Ford 302 V8 currently has 97000 miles Slightly worn in that there's some blowby in the crankcase breather filter and I had to change the valve stem seals awhile ago. I can sometimes smell engine oil in the exhaust tho - the rings are probably worn. I've used 10W-40 since the start, but should I switch to anything thinner/thicker?
 

Patman

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Oakville, Ontario
How about giving one of the high mileage oils a try? Either Pennzoil HM or GTX HM, in 10w30 form. Both of these are high 30wt oils, and should not thin out as easily as a conventional 10w40 would. What kind of interval will be used? 3k?
 
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Location
KY
quote:
Originally posted by metroplex: I'm almost out of quaker state dino 10W-40 so I was wondering if anyone could help out: 1981 Ford 302 V8 currently has 97000 miles Slightly worn in that there's some blowby in the crankcase breather filter and I had to change the valve stem seals awhile ago. I can sometimes smell engine oil in the exhaust tho - the rings are probably worn. I've used 10W-40 since the start, but should I switch to anything thinner/thicker?
Two choices in my "humble" opinion: 1. Go with one of the high-mileage oils in the 10w-30 grade. 2. And although it seems like I recommend this a lot of here, how about one of the 15w-40 HD "fleet" oils...either Rotella, Delo, or Delvac. Seems they also stop the leaks, but although it's not quite the same as an engine flush, they will also clean up the inside of your engine pretty well. [ March 21, 2003, 01:39 PM: Message edited by: Justin ]
 
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Washington St.
Justin, I'd prefer Schaeffer 15W-40, and Pennzoil, Mobil, or Chevron 15W-40 over the Rotella. A gentle, slow, thorough acting crankcase cleaning will safely remove the 22 years of crud from that engine--Neutra or Auto-Rx. Ken
 
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Location
Colorado
I really don't know but I have always heard form folks around here that Valvoline is a much better product then Pennzoil. A few guys that I know that rebuild engines told me that when they tear apart engines that have been running Pennzoil the inside of the engine was all gumed up and they say it is because of the nature of the oil. They say that using the Valvoline ovet time will help clean up the stuff that Pennzoil left behind.
 
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Location
KY
quote:
Originally posted by Ken2: Justin, I'd prefer Schaeffer 15W-40, and Pennzoil, Mobil, or Chevron 15W-40 over the Rotella. A gentle, slow, thorough acting crankcase cleaning will safely remove the 22 years of crud from that engine--Neutra or Auto-Rx. Ken
Yeah, Delo and Delvac seem to have better numbers, but then again, many, many people around the globe run Rotella with absolutely no oil-related problems.
 
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168
Location
KY
quote:
Originally posted by Chris B.: I really don't know but I have always heard form folks around here that Valvoline is a much better product then Pennzoil. A few guys that I know that rebuild engines told me that when they tear apart engines that have been running Pennzoil the inside of the engine was all gumed up and they say it is because of the nature of the oil. They say that using the Valvoline ovet time will help clean up the stuff that Pennzoil left behind.
Ask fifteen folks about what oil to choose, and you'll probably get fifteen different answers. Really, the MaxLife is a fine oil, but I have ran it, and it really didn't do much of anything in terms of stopping leaks on an older engine.
 

metroplex

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SE MI
Yes 3000 mile intervals will be used. The original factory specs called for 10W-40 but that was back in 81.
 

Patman

Staff member
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Oakville, Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by metroplex: Yes 3000 mile intervals will be used. The original factory specs called for 10W-40 but that was back in 81.
And back in 81 they probably realized that most conventional 10w40s would quickly thin out to being 10w30s, so your engine would probably do just fine on the thicker 10w30 high mileage oils.
 

MolaKule

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21,706
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Iowegia - USA
Here's my recommendations: 1. clean out crankcase with Neutra or AutoRX to make sure ring pack is clean of carbon. 2. Use Schaeffer's 15W40 (#700) or Amsoil 15W40 AME as the replacemnt oil.
 
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450
Location
Louisville, KY
When new that engine asked for a 40weight. Now when worn it will need as a minimum a 40 weight, more likely a 50 weight. A great all 'round oil is ValvolineDurablend 10w-40 and 20w-50 for this application. The base oils used, have great solvency for the likely dirty inside of this engine (blowby) and also have the weight to give the proper oil pressure in whats likely to be a loose engine at this point. I dont understand, why anyone would recommend a 30 weight in this case. Fred.. [Smile] [ March 22, 2003, 09:42 PM: Message edited by: palmerwmd ]
 

Bill in Utah

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UT
quote:
I really don't know but I have always heard form folks around here that Valvoline is a much better product then Pennzoil. A few guys that I know that rebuild engines told me that when they tear apart engines that have been running Pennzoil the inside of the engine was all gumed up and they say it is because of the nature of the oil. They say that using the Valvoline ovet time will help clean up the stuff that Pennzoil left behind.
Hi, I just got done doing a complete head change and gaskets on a well used 3.0ltr V-6 Taurus at 63k and the inside was the cleanest I've ever seen. The Car was a rental for it's first 21k miles when I bought it and prob had 3 oil changes durning the first year, once at 7,500 miles when the factory oil was changed out, 15,000 miles and 21000 miles when the dealer changed it out for the lot. I started using Pennzoil 5w-30 in it at the 24,000 mile change and since then and have been very happy with the results of the UOA and such. For under $1 a quart oil, it's very good IMO. [Smile] (BTW: The Dealer who uses only Kendall remarked on how clean the inside of the engine was and asked if I was using Mobil 1. They said normally if a engine is that clean (even at only 60k miles) they find Mobil 1 is being used.) On the other hand, I've had some not good luck with Valvoline on my 1990 and 1996 Ford pickups. Both needed to have valve jobs buy the time they got to 100k. One failed the IM test (the 1996) and the 1990 just smoked on start up to the point it burnt out the Converter. Plus we add the UOA's on the oil on this boards and others and I'll pass.. [Roll Eyes] I've got about 20 quarts of Valvoine in 10-30 and 5-30 that I'm just using up in other things. I'd love to get rid of it just to clear up the space... [Cheers!] Just my 2.5 cents.. Bill
 
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3,542
Location
Colorado
Yeah I guess it really varies from car to car. I wonder if oil manufactuers ever have bad batches that get through quality controll. Maybe this would have something to do with it but probably not.
 
Messages
453
Location
Galveston, TX
quote:
Originally posted by metroplex: I'm almost out of quaker state dino 10W-40 so I was wondering if anyone could help out: 1981 Ford 302 V8 currently has 97000 miles Slightly worn in that there's some blowby in the crankcase breather filter and I had to change the valve stem seals awhile ago. I can sometimes smell engine oil in the exhaust tho - the rings are probably worn. I've used 10W-40 since the start, but should I switch to anything thinner/thicker?
I had a 1981 Ford 351 v-8. When I bought it in 1994, it had 106,000 miles on it. I believe I had 146,000 miles on the clock when I got rid of it in 1998 December. The only thing I ever had in it was monograde mineral oil by Castrol. HD-30. Occasionall, in very hot summers, I'd use Castrol HD-40. Use monograde mineral oil, HD-30. Like me, you will never have an oil-related problem.
 

Patman

Staff member
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Oakville, Ontario
I'm sure many will agree with me on this one, straight weight oils no longer have their place in automotive engines. Save them for the lawnmower.
 

metroplex

Thread starter
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2,231
Location
SE MI
So you think diesel engine oil wouldn't be the best option? I was thinking about Chevron Supreme 10W-40. Amsoil is way too much money for this car.
 

metroplex

Thread starter
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2,231
Location
SE MI
What do you mean synthetic is not too expensive? $5/qt is too expensive I'm looking for more like $1-$2 tops per quart.
 
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1,908
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Metroplex, I missed the 3K change interval, but it wouldn't change what I tried to say. I'd rather halve the number of changes in favor of better oil and filter. I run both of these cars on 6000-mile/one-year changes with M1 oil and filters, and with future analysis planned, will stretch that as far as is reasonable. Again, I'd try MolaKules suggestion: clean out the motor, run a high-quality oil & filter, check that with an analysis at some point and be done with it as to supplies and service intervals. A 97,000-mile motor has a lot of life left in it if the rest of the maintenance is up to par, and, as in many states it will be emissions-exempt at age twenty-five -- a short time away -- it is worth it, IMO, to get it ready for another ten years or 150,000 miles of service. A difference in assumptions.
 

metroplex

Thread starter
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2,231
Location
SE MI
its not exempt at 25 years in NJ. In order to get that exemption, it must be a collector's car or an antique. Regardless, the car must have special plates and in order to get insured you must have it in MINT and I mean totally restored condition [Frown] I use it as a winter beater and for driving in bad neighborhoods in the city. I just got it inspected today - emissions was really good but stupid stuff failed my car (license plate bulb, missing sidemarker from 20 years ago that i can't get a replacement for, and rear drum brakes need adjusting). Sometimes I think NJ DMV is out to fuc* with honest Joe Sixpack and keep the criminals running free [Mad]
 
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