Oil Spec Question

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Hypothetical. Which one of these 5w-30 oils would be a general better protectant of an engine (regardless of manufacturer) One with the following specs:
  • ACEA C3
  • API SP
  • BMW Longlife-04
  • MB-Approval 229.31/ 229.51/ 229.52
  • Porsche C30
  • Renault RN 0700 / RN 0710
  • VW 504.00/ 507 00
  • Suitable for use on the following specifications: VW 505 00/505 01
Or this one with the following specs:
  • ACEA A3/B4
  • API SL
  • BMW Longlife-01
  • MB-Approval 229.5
  • VW 502 00 / 505 00
No I am just generally speaking here, is the one with more criteria meeting specs a better one than one with less?
 
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I would use a quality synthetic oil that meets Hyundai's ACEA or API specification, per owners manual.

MB, VW, BMW oils are for extended oil drain intervals, not Hyundai's 7,500 mi.
 
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Which ever oil keeps the parts separated and have a an adequate additive package to protect when the oil doesn't keep the parts separated and then depending the oil change intervals.
 

Propflux01

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Well, way I see it, gotta be something better in those oils that carry more of those certs than ones that don't. I'm kinda curious as to what it is. Better base? Additive? Etc.
 

jurko

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ACEA C3 HTHS ≥3.5 SA% ≤0.8 TBN ≥6.0
Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s.

ACEA A3/B4 HTHS ≥3.5 SA% ≥1.0 to ≤1.6 TBN ≥10.0
Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.
 
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Probably option #1
 
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Option 1 approvals lean more towards energy efficiency, while offering good wear control and would fit DI engines better while keeping the cat happy.

Option 2 approvals offer a good buffer for when someone ever needs to hear those revs and feel that power. Expect a shorter oil life but nothing substantial to sway a decision, Group II+/III and GTL will dominate in these approvals offering slightly less oxidative stability which is good for wear protection as well, a little bit of oxidation is like salt in food. Concerning the cat, it's not going to be happy if the engine is an oil burner. And many mixed opinions in long-term use in a DI engine is still in debate, but I like going old school with extra ZDDP that's not going to hurt. Calcium is another culprit for LSPI in TDI as well, but it's more effective than Magnesium Sulphonate, detergency speaking. I'd say let the experience speak for itself, and see how the engine likes it.

Anyway, EPA pushing some buttons on manufacturers to convince people of better alternatives. I ain't buying it. And if your engine likes the old stuff, old is gold.
 
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OP, there is no answer to your question. Especially when your question takes manufactures out of the equation.

With such a variety of cars of all years and makes running around, one would be a fool to recommend anything on your list without knowing the year, make, model and the intended use of the vehicle.

For example, let's say my 05 2.5 litre Outback was brand new and I'd have a choice between the two oils. I'd choose the cheapest option between the two. 300k later, if you'd take the thing apart and measure everything, there would be no difference between the two choices you listed.

Example two: granted this is the extreme side of things(hence my second paragraph), a 2.0 litre, turbo engine making anywhere between 250-430hp like a Golf or a AMG......well, that owner would have to do some reading.

Some major brands, if not all, meet the minimum required approvals with a set financial margin. Needless to say, majority of them, barely.

IMHO, majority of approvals to me are just bare minimum "guidelines". Only two I care about are A40 and LL-01.

There is a third option if you're looking for such a lube regardless of vehicle manufacturer, as per your requirement. That third option would not have the approvals you listed but would exceed the approvals by a wide margin and not carry them. Other members can recommend that to you.

The answer to your question as you worded it is neither. You'll have to consider a third option based on your request.
 

Propflux01

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Actually in the basic form, there is. both came from a "Euro" spec oil, yet option 2 has higher TBN, and would seem like the better choice for longer OCI. I was trying to ascertain why "euro" oils are used VS "American spec" oils (other than SAPS) and why. If it was just base, detergency, or what.
 
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Well, way I see it, gotta be something better in those oils that carry more of those certs than ones that don't. I'm kinda curious as to what it is. Better base? Additive? Etc.
Carrying more approvals only means they were tested and approved for those approvals. It isn’t necessarily additive.

Sometimes a tunnel is just a tunnel.
 

Propflux01

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Carrying more approvals only means they were tested and approved for those approvals. It isn’t necessarily additive.

Sometimes a tunnel is just a tunnel.
Yes, but something has to be in these oils to be approved. May be something extra, may not be. Hence my question.
 

OVERKILL

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Actually in the basic form, there is. both came from a "Euro" spec oil, yet option 2 has higher TBN, and would seem like the better choice for longer OCI. I was trying to ascertain why "euro" oils are used VS "American spec" oils (other than SAPS) and why. If it was just base, detergency, or what.
Euro oils, historically, have been more robust because the testing is more rigorous. The MB 229.5/229.51 chart that @The Critic shows the primary difference between Full-SAPS (no focus on aftertreatment compatibility (DPF/GPF)) and mid/low-SAPS. The full SAPS oil will have higher TBN and higher levels of ZDDP, though not by a huge amount, not like the low amounts we see with API/ILSAC oils.

Now, will that have any impact at all on performance in your application? That's the debate. I, personally prefer a full-SAPS oil if given the choice, but all of my applications are port injected. That said, our RAM was broken-in and spent the first part of its life on M1 EP 0W-20, which has API/ILSAC ZDDP levels (much lower than the oil that is in it now).
 
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