Oil Selection for Hyundai Veloster N - newer engine, limited existing oil data

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Hello Oil Geniuses! I am the proud owner of a Hyundai Veloster N. And while I make one heck of a survey, my oil knowledge is lacking. So if my vocab/accuracy in knowledge is off, I apologize in advance. I have some questions about the oil selection for this car that Hyundai's own customer service and several dealerships have been unable to answer quite to my satisfaction, and the manual itself is a little…well…vague. Being unable to find existing topics pertaining to this car, I wanted to reach out to tap your expertise. About the Engine and the Car: Here we have a 2.0 liter inline 4-banger, with a twin scroll turbo and a pseudo ‘anti-lag' system, operating at a 9.5:1 compression ratio. The engine is direct injection, and the output is 275 (N w/ Performance Package) or 250 (N w/o PP) brake horsepower (same engine/turbo, but different ECU tune supposedly) and 260 lb. ft torque (both trims). The redline is about 6750 RPM and the throttle response is user-adjustable. Both versions are 6 speed manuals (supposedly a DCT is on the way) and put the power down to the front wheels. The car uses a FMIC that is isolated from the radiator, and requires 91+ octane (AKI) with a maximum ethanol content of 15%. It is essentially impossible not to really get into the throttle. Oil capacity is about 5 quarts. What The Manual Says: The manual advocates a 0W-30 ACEA C2 (or the latest API or ILSAC) on page 8-7, recommending the Quaker State brand but not a specific product line…then, on page 8-8, it suggests we can select (quite a few…0W-30, 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 15W-40, 20W-50) alternative engine oils using the viscosity chart based on temperature/availability and throws the API/ILSAC Starburst at us, which to my understanding is an SN-RC. So my take from this is they want me to use a low-SAPs/mid-SAPs oil. The advocated OCI is 6k miles for normal driving in the manual (3k miles for severe driving conditions), although I was told verbally it should be 5k miles. About the Factory Fill & Factory Oil Filter I have been unable to get any definitive information on what oil is currently in the vehicle. Hyundai Customer Affairs told me through a generic email that the car currently uses (and they advised using) conventional oil, which does not seem right…being this is a new car, perhaps the general customer service reps may not understand the difference from the N and other models? For that matter, it appears most Hyundai dealers use a conventional oil as the standard oil (with a ‘premium' synthetic upgrade as an option.) The manual does not appear to specify the oil filter to use. With summer approaching, this makes me lean towards draining the FF relatively early (car currently has around 1,000 miles.) Where I am a Little Concerned: Within the relatively wide range of oils they are suggesting, there seems to be substantial variation in regard to shear stability. Simultaneously, I was under the impression that shear stability is generally of pretty significant importance with many of these high-output turbo engines, especially in hotter climates if the car will see very spirited use (I may be wrong?) And some of the oils that would technically qualify have pretty low-HT/HS values… With the previous car I had (which had an EJ257), the big concern was in regard to the implications of what might happen to the bearings should the oil go in a 30 weight but shear to a 20 weight before coming out at the completion of the OCI. What I Did Previously Based on the advice of those with more knowledge than me, I gravitated towards a HD 30 instead of an RC 30 for my EJ257. Partly based on the general tendency of UOAs with Subaru's DI FA20F and PFI EJ257/255 to be quite positive, I went for the Motul 8100 X-Clean family, choosing the 5W-30 X-Clean EFE with relatively short OCIs. And all was well. Motul 8100 X-Clean EFE meets the C2 compliance the Hyundai manual says, and it also seems to hold up well to turbo engines that beat on oil. I also happen to have a substantial amount of 5W-30 X-Clean EFE sitting around now, and I am in a climate where it rarely goes below 20 F and the car will rarely or never be operated when below freezing. In the summer, temperatures regularly exceed 95F with high humidity. So What To Do Now? So how good of a match does X-Clean 8100 EFE sound for this engine? Alternatively, are there better matches? What oils do you recommend for other owners of this car? Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30? Castrol Euro 0W-30? Schaeffer's 9000 5W-30? Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30? Thanks much for your time! Sorry for the long post but I wanted to provide as much info as I could. I do plan to UOA this car as I go, and would be glad to upload the numbers if it is of interest to anyone.

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CT8

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5W-30 or 5W-40 will work 365 days a year. Unless it gets below -35*f starting temps.
 
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Funny how they recommend QS but they don't have a 0w-30, nor do they sell a C2 oil in the US! C2 oils are a bit tough to find stateside but if you were to expand to A3/B4 categories for a little more film strength it gives you many more choices. If you go A5/B5 you could have a bit thinner oil for fuel economy with a whole lot of choice. I think C3 oils are more available but I haven't looked for them. Does this engine use GPF? That would be my only concern with a full-SAPS oil. Newer DI engines seem to be adding them to get rid of some of the particulates from DI motors.
 
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Just a observation , 5 quarts seems alittle light on quality in a engine like that , I'd keep the OCI short in whatever oil you choose . But I have OCD so I feel that way about any functional fluid .
 
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Congrats on a fine car and welcome. My choices would be: Pennzoil Platinum EuroL 5w30 Castrol Edge 5w40 A3/B4 Mobil1 ESP 5w30 Valvoline Syn MST 5w40 Pictures please...
 
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welcome That is a beautiful writeup smile Seems like a good candidate for PP Euro L 5w30. Most Walmarts carry it. They also carry the actual OEM Hyundai oil filter. Anything labeled dexos2 should be good in your Veloster N. The oils you mentioned in your OP should also be fine choices. Napa has Valvoline MST 5w30
 
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*it suggests we can select (quite a few…0W-30, 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 15W-40, 20W-50) alternative engine oils using the viscosity chart based on temperature/availability* ^^This is how ALL manuals should be!! Love it!! Nothing worse than the "0W20 for all temperatures" garbage. You can see I ignore that,and have a perfect uoa to back it up.
 
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ACEA C2 is the same oil as A5/B5 (regarding to HTHS), but low saps to protect catalyst converter and DPF. ACEA C3 is the same as A3/B4 (regarding HTHS) (but low saps) Use C2 or A5. My KIA Ceed recommeds ACEA A5 and I use sometimes C2 or A5 depends what is on sale.
 
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Being this is a high output four pot and I seems you have no intention of driving it gently I would definitely be looking for something with a HTHS <3.5mPAS. I suspect Hyundai want a mid-saps oil to minimise intake deposits being this is a GDI engine. Also, to mitigate any future issues you may have with warranty claims I would probably try and stick with a 0W30 which should also be suitable for all temperatures. My personal recommendation would be Shell Helix ECT C2/C3 0W30. It's an ACEA C3 oil meaning it's a thicker 30 weight and will have a HTHS of 3.5mPAS or higher but it also meets the fuel economy requirements of ACEA C2. It's a Group 3+/GTL based oil with a number of approvals such as VW 504/507 and LL04. It's available in the US as a Penzoil oil, I'm unsure what it's actual name is in the US.
 
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That's an exciting car! I've seen some YouTube videos about it and it seems like a lot of fun. That exhaust popping these cars do would entertain me (and probably annoy other people around me) to no end. I personally would look for whatever 5w40 or 0/5w30 euro oil is on sale in your area. They meet the recommendations of Hyundai, cover all temperatures, and you get the extra peace of mind that the oil meets a bunch of tough euro specs. Euro oils should also cover your concern of shearing, since I've never seen them shear down to a 20.
 
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5w30&5w40 in C3 or 5w40 in A3/B4....both have HTHS of 3.5 MIN... Thats it... Regarding where you are....some euro 0w40 would be even easier to get...
 
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Judging by the amount of soot on the tail pipes and exhaust plume it seems to me at least that Hyundai/Kia's run rich. I don't know if I'm making the right deduction here, but if I am then I would run a C3 (Xw-30/40).
 
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Originally Posted by LotI
Funny how they recommend QS but they don't have a 0w-30, nor do they sell a C2 oil in the US!
Quaker State was sponsoring Hyundai's World Rally Team a few years ago, but they are now Shell/Helix. wink
 
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Originally Posted by Kjmack
Just a observation , 5 quarts seems alittle light on quality in a engine like that , I'd keep the OCI short in whatever oil you choose . But I have OCD so I feel that way about any functional fluid .
My TDI 1.6 EcoBoost's sump is only 4.2 quarts, one of the reasons I do <4K OCIs, despite the flak from the L-O-N-G OCIers on here. wink
 
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Originally Posted by Bailes1992
My personal recommendation would be Shell Helix ECT C2/C3 0W30. It's an ACEA C3 oil meaning it's a thicker 30 weight and will have a HTHS of 3.5mPAS or higher but it also meets the fuel economy requirements of ACEA C2. It's a Group 3+/GTL based oil with a number of approvals such as VW 504/507 and LL04. It's available in the US as a Penzoil oil, I'm unsure what it's actual name is in the US.
If the equivalent to that here is the Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 ( shrug ), it is available, but somewhat hard to find. frown
 
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With turbo Hyundais, I would use an oil that is anti-LSPI. I use Mobil1 5w-30 ESP (not cert for LSPI but has the same low calcium as LSPI speced oil) and Amsoil 0w-40 SS in my 1.6T Hyundai Hyundai has "fuel economy" speced oil. Their spec should be ignored in a highly used turbo car. AS YOU can, because all Hyundai turbos are allowed to use 5w-40 with no spec given right in the manual. I would choose an anti LSPI oil since we both get 17psi boost at 1,600 rpm. I am looking into Delo 400 XSP 5w-40 right now, since it is cert SN Plus and 5w-40.
 
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being just above you in Pa i run 10-30 synthetic, closer viscositys are better + even real group IV + V lighter base oils burn off quicker + are not as durable IMO. most all "synthetics" are mostly if not all group III highly refined CRUDE oils good but not as good as a PAO + or Ester in severe usage. if you get a user a thicker 10-40 would be better. using Redline or similar will protect the best + will not be the typical $5 a qt group III fake synthetic that is almost as good. here in the US the watery xxW20 oils are pushed but they are for mpg's NOT longevity + i always believe in using an oil for your climate + driving habits!
 
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Originally Posted by VolkswagenFox21
That exhaust popping these cars do would entertain me (and probably annoy other people around me) to no end.
Yes, the Ns do this right from the factory! My car pops on upshifts, and downshifts/coast down with an aftermarket, much larger (CP-E 3") than factory exhaust system, even on the factory tune. (It would get me arrested IF I installed a specific, aftermarket, 'pops and crackles' type tune. LOL crzy )
 
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