Oil recs for Corvette Z06 LS7
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Originally Posted By: buster
Mobil 1 0w30 meets GM 4718M, which is a really stringent spec. FWIW.
For added ZDP, which I don't think benefits an engine like this although some would say it still does, you could use Mobil 1 HM 5w30.
Problem with M1 HM is that it's a heavier lower VI oil to regular M1 5W-30.
A better Mobil choice would be M1 0W-20 (which also met GM 4718M) and add a small amount of M1 0W-40 to suit based on oil pressure.
This will also raise the ZDDP level somewhat as well as the oil's VI.
Mobil 1 0w30 meets GM 4718M, which is a really stringent spec. FWIW.
For added ZDP, which I don't think benefits an engine like this although some would say it still does, you could use Mobil 1 HM 5w30.
Problem with M1 HM is that it's a heavier lower VI oil to regular M1 5W-30.
A better Mobil choice would be M1 0W-20 (which also met GM 4718M) and add a small amount of M1 0W-40 to suit based on oil pressure.
This will also raise the ZDDP level somewhat as well as the oil's VI.
Man there is a lot of "reinventing the wheel" going on in this thread. If it's a stock or fairly stock Vette it will be fine with the OEM specified oil under any condition imaginable. Of course there are equivalents but I don't see why you would start blending oils etc. when you can buy something where you know what you're getting.
RMM you make a valid point and it has already been stated that the OEM M1 5W-30 is perfectly fine for the stock ZO-6.
But the OP wants to explore if there is something better for the scenario that he has suggested and there is.
That's what we do on BITOG.
But the OP wants to explore if there is something better for the scenario that he has suggested and there is.
That's what we do on BITOG.
Originally Posted By: RMM
Man there is a lot of "reinventing the wheel" going on in this thread. If it's a stock or fairly stock Vette it will be fine with the OEM specified oil under any condition imaginable. Of course there are equivalents but I don't see why you would start blending oils etc. when you can buy something where you know what you're getting.
Because this is bitog. I suggest you look around and read some old threads. We can get 20 pages discussing the differences between thick and thin 20 grades and we go to war over the thick/thin debate.
And that's only the beginning. Wait until someone mentions the fram orange can or Lucas oil stabilizer or auto RX.
So before posting the whole re-inventing the wheel stuff understand that here that is exactly what we discuss,and we like it,so if it sounds like absurdity to you then honestly sir this site really isn't for you.
So I suggest maybe catching up on some of our old threads,read them over really good and understand that those are the typical conversations we have here,and that this thread is also typical and know that there will be many more of them.
We split hairs here so thin they get quartered,then quartered again.
And I love that about this site.
Man there is a lot of "reinventing the wheel" going on in this thread. If it's a stock or fairly stock Vette it will be fine with the OEM specified oil under any condition imaginable. Of course there are equivalents but I don't see why you would start blending oils etc. when you can buy something where you know what you're getting.
Because this is bitog. I suggest you look around and read some old threads. We can get 20 pages discussing the differences between thick and thin 20 grades and we go to war over the thick/thin debate.
And that's only the beginning. Wait until someone mentions the fram orange can or Lucas oil stabilizer or auto RX.
So before posting the whole re-inventing the wheel stuff understand that here that is exactly what we discuss,and we like it,so if it sounds like absurdity to you then honestly sir this site really isn't for you.
So I suggest maybe catching up on some of our old threads,read them over really good and understand that those are the typical conversations we have here,and that this thread is also typical and know that there will be many more of them.
We split hairs here so thin they get quartered,then quartered again.
And I love that about this site.
My apologies, Garak. I jumped in on this thread late and didn't read many of the initial posts. However, saying it twice in this case doesn't hurt.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Absolutely, as I mentioned in my ignored post.
I don't see the feds rounding up M1 racing or VR-1 oils. Red Line isn't sold out of "hemp" shops or speakeasies, either. So, where is this prohibition?
Originally Posted By: Garak
Absolutely, as I mentioned in my ignored post.
I don't see the feds rounding up M1 racing or VR-1 oils. Red Line isn't sold out of "hemp" shops or speakeasies, either. So, where is this prohibition?
Originally Posted By: Coprolite
My apologies, Garak.
I wasn't giving you a hard time for missing my post. I was commenting that my arguments about the "feds" were ignored by him.
See, you and I know we can get M1 racing oils, VR-1, and so forth. Don't tell the feds. And if you use Red Line, be sure to put fake Starbursts and Donuts on it, just to be safe!
My apologies, Garak.
I wasn't giving you a hard time for missing my post. I was commenting that my arguments about the "feds" were ignored by him.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I've always looked at RL's 0wXX oils as having similar chemistries, so why not just use their 0w30 if you want something between their 0w20 and 0w40?
As far as I can tell RL 0W oils are identical except for the VII content.
dailydriver has already tried RL 0W-30 blended with Sustina 0W-20.
I think the idea of using RL 0W-40 (VI 197) and blending with the ultra high VI 0W-20 oils mentioned is to have a 0W-30 with the highest 200+ VI possible.
^^^YES, EXACTLY!!
Especially for the winter OCI I am planning on using this blend for.
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I've always looked at RL's 0wXX oils as having similar chemistries, so why not just use their 0w30 if you want something between their 0w20 and 0w40?
As far as I can tell RL 0W oils are identical except for the VII content.
dailydriver has already tried RL 0W-30 blended with Sustina 0W-20.
I think the idea of using RL 0W-40 (VI 197) and blending with the ultra high VI 0W-20 oils mentioned is to have a 0W-30 with the highest 200+ VI possible.
^^^YES, EXACTLY!!
Especially for the winter OCI I am planning on using this blend for.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
RLI 0W-30's VI is 193. It's also worth noting that RLI retains it's 193 VI in service (and despite some fuel dilution) based on UOA's from Ali Haas' Enzo.
Maybe I should consider this for my winter OCI instead of the Red Line blend, or is the add pack severely lacking as compared to RL??
RLI 0W-30's VI is 193. It's also worth noting that RLI retains it's 193 VI in service (and despite some fuel dilution) based on UOA's from Ali Haas' Enzo.
Maybe I should consider this for my winter OCI instead of the Red Line blend, or is the add pack severely lacking as compared to RL??
dailydriver, now that RL has updated their oil grade spec's, the VI of their 0W-40 has dropped to 191 while their 10W-60 has risen to 188 with a 5.8cP. Consequently if you used RL 10W-60 instead blended with Sustina you'll only need about half for a given viscosity and ultimately will have the highest possible finished VI.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: RMM
Man there is a lot of "reinventing the wheel" going on in this thread. If it's a stock or fairly stock Vette it will be fine with the OEM specified oil under any condition imaginable. Of course there are equivalents but I don't see why you would start blending oils etc. when you can buy something where you know what you're getting.
Because this is bitog. I suggest you look around and read some old threads. We can get 20 pages discussing the differences between thick and thin 20 grades and we go to war over the thick/thin debate.
And that's only the beginning. Wait until someone mentions the fram orange can or Lucas oil stabilizer or auto RX.
So before posting the whole re-inventing the wheel stuff understand that here that is exactly what we discuss,and we like it,so if it sounds like absurdity to you then honestly sir this site really isn't for you.
So I suggest maybe catching up on some of our old threads,read them over really good and understand that those are the typical conversations we have here,and that this thread is also typical and know that there will be many more of them.
We split hairs here so thin they get quartered,then quartered again.
And I love that about this site.
I get the thick vs. thin argument and different oil brands, ad. packs, etc., but trying to blend a 20wt and a 40wt to get a 30wt when you could just buy a 30wt of the same oil type (and know exactly what you're getting) is just nonsense!
I've read enough threads on this board to know what's going on, and there is some really good information on this board which I appreciate but as with any source of information you have to learn to sift through the fluff.
Originally Posted By: RMM
Man there is a lot of "reinventing the wheel" going on in this thread. If it's a stock or fairly stock Vette it will be fine with the OEM specified oil under any condition imaginable. Of course there are equivalents but I don't see why you would start blending oils etc. when you can buy something where you know what you're getting.
Because this is bitog. I suggest you look around and read some old threads. We can get 20 pages discussing the differences between thick and thin 20 grades and we go to war over the thick/thin debate.
And that's only the beginning. Wait until someone mentions the fram orange can or Lucas oil stabilizer or auto RX.
So before posting the whole re-inventing the wheel stuff understand that here that is exactly what we discuss,and we like it,so if it sounds like absurdity to you then honestly sir this site really isn't for you.
So I suggest maybe catching up on some of our old threads,read them over really good and understand that those are the typical conversations we have here,and that this thread is also typical and know that there will be many more of them.
We split hairs here so thin they get quartered,then quartered again.
And I love that about this site.
I get the thick vs. thin argument and different oil brands, ad. packs, etc., but trying to blend a 20wt and a 40wt to get a 30wt when you could just buy a 30wt of the same oil type (and know exactly what you're getting) is just nonsense!
I've read enough threads on this board to know what's going on, and there is some really good information on this board which I appreciate but as with any source of information you have to learn to sift through the fluff.
Originally Posted By: radchad3
Hello everyone! I have started reading quite a bit here on oil but would like some recs for my Z06. It has 7000 miles on it and is only street driven during the nice days here in Nebraska. I have looked into Redline, Amsoil Z-rod, and a little into Royal Purple. Also, someone over on the vette forum recommended Joe Gibbs.
#1: I was thinking of going with a 0w-30 for better cold engine start-up performance. My oil temp rarely gets above 175 with the Mobil 1 5w-30 I currently use.
#2: Looking for something with a higher ZDDP. Will these oils kill my cats early?
#3: Any recs on what I should buy?
Thank you all for your time!
Chad
Pick the brand you want in the recommended oil weight the owners manual calls for.
Hello everyone! I have started reading quite a bit here on oil but would like some recs for my Z06. It has 7000 miles on it and is only street driven during the nice days here in Nebraska. I have looked into Redline, Amsoil Z-rod, and a little into Royal Purple. Also, someone over on the vette forum recommended Joe Gibbs.
#1: I was thinking of going with a 0w-30 for better cold engine start-up performance. My oil temp rarely gets above 175 with the Mobil 1 5w-30 I currently use.
#2: Looking for something with a higher ZDDP. Will these oils kill my cats early?
#3: Any recs on what I should buy?
Thank you all for your time!
Chad
Pick the brand you want in the recommended oil weight the owners manual calls for.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Originally Posted By: MajorCavalry
Why not use what is recommended in your manual? I think it is Mobil 1 5W-30. I am not being sarcastic. Just think that the engineers designed this engine around the properties of this oil.
BINGO!
I've often wondered if the base stocks, and/or the add packs might be better/higher grade in the M1 EP line than in the base line, while still meeting the SN/Dexos(??) specs? (Or is it ONLY better at a longer OCI, exclusively???)
Originally Posted By: MajorCavalry
Why not use what is recommended in your manual? I think it is Mobil 1 5W-30. I am not being sarcastic. Just think that the engineers designed this engine around the properties of this oil.
BINGO!
I've often wondered if the base stocks, and/or the add packs might be better/higher grade in the M1 EP line than in the base line, while still meeting the SN/Dexos(??) specs? (Or is it ONLY better at a longer OCI, exclusively???)
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
dailydriver, now that RL has updated their oil grade spec's, the VI of their 0W-40 has dropped to 191 while their 10W-60 has risen to 188 with a 5.8cP. Consequently if you used RL 10W-60 instead blended with Sustina you'll only need about half for a given viscosity and ultimately will have the highest possible finished VI.
So like 2 qts. of the 10W-60 to 4 qts. of the Sustina?? (To yeild ~a 3.5 HTHSV, and ~ a 214 VI???)
Do you know anything about the RLI (as in, Renewable Lubricants Inc., NOT Red Line) 0W-30's add pack/TBN that could make it worth bothering with, straight up, for a winter OCI?? (I know you might still consider it too 'thick' despite the fairly high VI, but it's HTHSV might just be right in the range of what I'm looking for.
)
dailydriver, now that RL has updated their oil grade spec's, the VI of their 0W-40 has dropped to 191 while their 10W-60 has risen to 188 with a 5.8cP. Consequently if you used RL 10W-60 instead blended with Sustina you'll only need about half for a given viscosity and ultimately will have the highest possible finished VI.
So like 2 qts. of the 10W-60 to 4 qts. of the Sustina?? (To yeild ~a 3.5 HTHSV, and ~ a 214 VI???)
Do you know anything about the RLI (as in, Renewable Lubricants Inc., NOT Red Line) 0W-30's add pack/TBN that could make it worth bothering with, straight up, for a winter OCI?? (I know you might still consider it too 'thick' despite the fairly high VI, but it's HTHSV might just be right in the range of what I'm looking for.
As you can see using RL 0W-40 with Sustina will only give a VI of about 203. That said for temp's below freezing I'd still likely blend with 0W-40 but above freezing just to get a lighter oil on start-up I'd use their 10W-60 since you're using half as much. Again that's assuming you don't what the higher ZDDP and Moly the 4 qts of RL 0W-40 would provide.
RLI 0W-30 has viscosity characteristics closer to an oil like M1 0W-40.
RLI 0W-30 has viscosity characteristics closer to an oil like M1 0W-40.
Quote:
Consequently if you used RL 10W-60 instead blended with Sustina you'll only need about half for a given viscosity and ultimately will have the highest possible finished VI.
Arguably the worst advice ever given on this forum. Taking two oils with entirely different chemical makeups, all because of the obsession of achieving the highest possible VI. Do you think the RL VII's and Sustina are the same or even compatible? This is just as silly as it gets.
Do you not understand the simple concept that the chemistry between different oils is different? Do you realize that they don't just dump stuff in the bottle and hope it works? Are you aware of of additive/detergent/anti-wear competition?
Not all oils are created equally, nor are they using the same exact formulations.
Consequently if you used RL 10W-60 instead blended with Sustina you'll only need about half for a given viscosity and ultimately will have the highest possible finished VI.
Arguably the worst advice ever given on this forum. Taking two oils with entirely different chemical makeups, all because of the obsession of achieving the highest possible VI. Do you think the RL VII's and Sustina are the same or even compatible? This is just as silly as it gets.
Do you not understand the simple concept that the chemistry between different oils is different? Do you realize that they don't just dump stuff in the bottle and hope it works? Are you aware of of additive/detergent/anti-wear competition?
Not all oils are created equally, nor are they using the same exact formulations.
Quote:
Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oils are properly balanced to protect a racing engine. Adding Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil to a conventional oil may not enhance the performance of the oil. In fact, adding Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil will change the balance of the oil, which could lead to engine failure. This is known as additive clash, and should be avoided
Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oils are properly balanced to protect a racing engine. Adding Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil to a conventional oil may not enhance the performance of the oil. In fact, adding Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil will change the balance of the oil, which could lead to engine failure. This is known as additive clash, and should be avoided
Originally Posted By: buster
Quote:
Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oils are properly balanced to protect a racing engine. Adding Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil to a conventional oil may not enhance the performance of the oil. In fact, adding Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil will change the balance of the oil, which could lead to engine failure. This is known as additive clash, and should be avoided
Joe Gibs XP0, XP1, XP2, XP3 and XP6 are dedicated race oils that can be mixed with each but nothing else including JG own street oils.
Quote:
Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oils are properly balanced to protect a racing engine. Adding Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil to a conventional oil may not enhance the performance of the oil. In fact, adding Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil will change the balance of the oil, which could lead to engine failure. This is known as additive clash, and should be avoided
Joe Gibs XP0, XP1, XP2, XP3 and XP6 are dedicated race oils that can be mixed with each but nothing else including JG own street oils.
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