Oil Recommendations To Mitigate Sludge In Short Drives

[Donald]

Originally Posted by Verminator
My daughter has a 2009 Hyundai Accent 1.6 L standard transmission. For the last several years, I have been using Castrol GTX Dino in 5W20, which is what is specified for this car. I also use Valvoline 5W20 Dino as well on occasion.

The thing with her car, however, is that she does primarily short runs of anywhere from 10 to 15 minutes of driving, to and from work, and occasionally maybe about 45 to 50 minutes on the highway once a week or once every two weeks. But primarily her driving consists of no more than 10 to 15 minutes at a time. I am assuming that because of the short drives, her oil is not getting to a high enough temperature to burn off any condensation, and that this potentially could be a contributor to sludge buildup. She only drives about 5,000 to 6,000km a year, and I change her oil every 5,000 kilometres which means I usually change it every 10 to 12 months. And this is why I'm using Dino oil instead of synthetic.

Although there are no problems associated with the oil I'm using as far as performance, sound, or anything like that, I am wondering if there is specific type of oil that I should be looking at, or one with a specific additive package that is better suited for short-haul trips where the oil does not make it up to full temperature most of the time?



I would not do anything special until you determine the engine actually has sludge. Pull a valve cover.

 

[csandste]

Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by Verminator
Thank you for your comments. I didn't realize that you could see sludge on the underside of your oil filler cap. Would that be the white creamy stuff that occasionally you see? I can't recall seeing it recently, but I have seen it at some point in my life. I just didn't know what it meant.

And secondly, I was not aware that synthetic oil combats oxidization better than Dino oil. I felt that because of the total mileage of the vehicle being about 5,000 km a year, that it would be a waste to use synthetic which I typically don't change for 10,000 kilometres, or once a year. But do I understand correctly that synthetic would still be better at combating oxidization and better all around even though I'll be changing it every 5,000 kilometres or basically once a year?

You're changing the oil what, once a year? Is the addtl $2 or 3 expense of a FULL SYNTHETIC v. a dino/dino blend going to change your life in any meaningful way? If you're genuinely worried about sludge, justifying the 3 bucks will be a no brainier.

That said, all oils, even synthetics, are susceptible to oxidation - which can lead to sludging. Synthetics however, due to their purity (less contaminants), their molecular structure (-saturated synthetic molecules v. unsaturated dino molecules) and thermal stability resist oxidation better than conventional. This is why you don't see EP dino's. This 👇 might be of interest to you..

Dino v. Synthetics - benefits

You can keep doing what you're doing and use a dino/dino blend and probably never know the difference at your mileage. But you asked for recommendations and I offered mine, what you do with it is up to you. Personally, I would spend the couple extra dollars on a synthetic for the aforementioned benefits, it's cheap insurance.

Fwiw, anyone who's seen my posts knows I use dino/blends. So I'm not bashing them. In fact I have Havoline 5w30 SB HiMi in the crankcase right now but I also change my oil 3x a year so the odds of sludge forming I my engine, which isn't a DI engine like yours, is minimal at best.

But you do you.. but as stated, I think the addtl $3 on a full syn is a wise investment. It's not even the cost of a cup of coffee at Starbucks....


This. (which modifies my previous post)-- If you change your own (which I can't) the spread between a low cost Group 3 like ST and a conventional/blend is just a couple of bucks. Not so at oil change places.

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted by burla
You are assuming an issue? If so do a uoa, look at moisture in fuel, so you will want to send a full sample in. Oil system still sheds moisture below 212f, just slower. But I would verify an issue before making any beans about it.


Correct. UOA will check condition of the oil, which is what you're concerned about. Interval will probably depend on the oil used...generally dino = shorter.

 

[Linctex]

+1

I agree with everyone else - your current routine is good to go