Oil Recommendations for Rebuilt 1MZ geared towards street performance

[InvictaS14]

Hello all, first time posting here. First I'd like to say you guys have a great forum here, I'll be returning often!

Alright, on to the question:

So I have a 99 Avalon (land yacht

) and the engine had a bad case of an uncontrollable bladder while I was away for a month. Guess we had some hot day/freezing night weather and my car ruptured a seal and [censored] about three liters. Didn't notice an oil spot cause it likes to rain a lot here in the PNW. Anyways, I rolled (exploded) a bearing, and decided now would be a good chance to teach myself how to rebuild an engine. One thing led to another, and I started doing a lot of while-you're-there upgrades (forged rods, bored cylinders, os pistons, rebalanced crank, lightened fly, lightweight crank pulley, race valves, better springs, Ti keepers, port/polish, headers, EGR delete, etc, etc). Probably pushing ~230-250hp when it's done. My end all goal is to push about 500hp hence the forged rods. Oh and I used sta-lube assembly lube, along with a bit of M1 on the bottom end.

So with that you can kind of get an idea at what I'm going for. I'm looking for recommendations on break -in oils, and then long term oils. I want to go synthetic, and I've deleted emissions equipment, so race oil isn't out of the question. I'm leaning more towards Motul, I used to run M1 FS 5w-30 before she blew. This engine is notorious for sludging, but I've made some precautions for that with a catch can, and EGR delete, plus synthetic obviously has its huge benefits. I drive hard, and when I get new cams I'll be pushing the redline from 6250, to about 7,500-8,000. I don't have a standard routine driving route, it varies week to week with work.

Toyo recommended 5w-30 conventional @ 5k OCI. Before she blew I was running the M1 @ 7.5k-10k OCI, and she was fine to do it. So now I'm thinking of using Motul's break-in oil for the first 50mi, but after that I'm a bit lost on which oil to run. I do also have a bunch of cans of vintage Valvoline conventional 20w-50 high performance racing oil.

Let me know your ideas?

 

[maxdustington]

Edge 0W40. No need for boutiques, spend that money on transmission upgrades.

 

[InvictaS14]

Trans is next, once I can find one, that is. Motul is no problem for me to get, as my dad is in the distribution business and can send me cases of just about anything for next to nothing. Why do you recommend 0w-40 though?

 

[ekpolk]

Pictures, this thread requires pictures!!!

 

[madeej11]

Pictures for an oil recommendation?

 

[ekpolk]

Originally Posted by madeej11
Pictures for an oil recommendation?


Nooooo -- for all that work done, and especially for a look inside this old tough-on-oil engine! Might help with oil rec -- and would be FUN and INTERESTING!

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by InvictaS14
Trans is next, once I can find one, that is. Motul is no problem for me to get, as my dad is in the distribution business and can send me cases of just about anything for next to nothing. Why do you recommend 0w-40 though?
Why not? Probably the stoutest off-the-shelf oil (in Toronto) and is a little thicker than a 5W30. I'm not sure that you would really need a boutique or super thick race oil for a naturally aspirated street car unless the engine was built with a thicker oil in mind. You could also run 10W30 but I think most stores are phasing that out and you want to run a synth and the only synth 10W30 I can think of is Redline 30W.

You could also run T6 5W40 or Mobil TDT 5W40 if you wanted something thicker that a 0W40. I think your application could also call for a HDEO: you want something slightly thicker than a 5W30 and maybe you can take advantage of a high zinc/ZDDP HDEO designed for pre-emissions diesels/stationary engines.

If you can get 300V for a good price, then do it. I feel that your engine mods do not necessitate a boutique oil at this stage, old port injected naturally aspirated engines are not that hard on oil.

 

[OVERKILL]

How are you planning on hitting 500HP? Turbo or supercharger?

 

[Imp4]

So here is a recent UOA of a 1MZ FE with 250,000 miles running in a 2003 Camry XLE V6.
OCI is 10K using Mobil 1 5w-30 High Mileage.
The vehicle is constantly short tripped around town by the teenagers and routinely neglected more than I would care to admit.
Keep in mind that the 1MZ was designed to produce 201 HP and approximately 200 lb-ft of torque.
Just don't abuse it and maintain a decent OCI and you'll be fine.

 

[InvictaS14]

Oh man, I need to configure my notification settings lol. Didn't know I had any more replies.

Originally Posted by ekpolk
Originally Posted by madeej11
Pictures for an oil recommendation?


Nooooo -- for all that work done, and especially for a look inside this old tough-on-oil engine! Might help with oil rec -- and would be FUN and INTERESTING!


Thanks for the interest! I'll gather what pics I can. The bottom end is all sealed up and waiting on the heads to be finished. Still working on the port/polish, and trying to wrap my head around all of the math that goes into volumetric efficiencies.

And here I thought I'd never have to use all of that math they tought us in high school.

Originally Posted by maxdustington
Originally Posted by InvictaS14
Trans is next, once I can find one, that is. Motul is no problem for me to get, as my dad is in the distribution business and can send me cases of just about anything for next to nothing. Why do you recommend 0w-40 though?
Why not? Probably the stoutest off-the-shelf oil (in Toronto) and is a little thicker than a 5W30. I'm not sure that you would really need a boutique or super thick race oil for a naturally aspirated street car unless the engine was built with a thicker oil in mind. You could also run 10W30 but I think most stores are phasing that out and you want to run a synth and the only synth 10W30 I can think of is Redline 30W.

You could also run T6 5W40 or Mobil TDT 5W40 if you wanted something thicker that a 0W40. I think your application could also call for a HDEO: you want something slightly thicker than a 5W30 and maybe you can take advantage of a high zinc/ZDDP HDEO designed for pre-emissions diesels/stationary engines.

If you can get 300V for a good price, then do it. I feel that your engine mods do not necessitate a boutique oil at this stage, old port injected naturally aspirated engines are not that hard on oil.


Yeah, I was just trying to understand where you were coming from in terms of oil weight. I live in the pacific northwest, where temps are fairly mild, >35 in winter, -.0003), cylinder clearance was similar, and the new valves I'm not completely sure cause I'm still cleaning them up (from leftover sludge that made it though a couple hot tanks, and aluminum dust) are running clearances around ~.0014-.0016.



Overkill: I haven't completely decided yet. They make a TRD blower for this engine, and the mild pulley at i think 5.5psi (I could be wrong) pushes an extra ~40hp to the wheels, and the 8psi pushes about ~80hp. These are definite torque-prominent engines, so I think the blower would be more beneficial. That being said I've seen several people custom fab an M80 to these guys, and there's one lunatic I came across who has the 1mz TRD s/c and is also plumbing the scion TC TRD centrifugal s/c into the mix--looks wild, that's for sure.

IMP4: thanks for the chart!