oil recommendation. lexus/toyota oil guys please!

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Hey guys! New to forum but been reading for awhile. I have a 2001 Lexus is300 with high miles, 200k. Its a inline 6 cly. We just bought it for my wife to drive and have 2 baby boys so wanna try to make it last as long as possible. I don't think the previous owners took the best care of it. I know these are great motors but its consuming a little oil nothing crazy I don't think. Maybe 1 quart every 2000 miles but that's more than it should use I think. It called for 5w-30 from the factory. Im not sure I wanna go syn. Cause I hate to chance it creating leaks since I don't see it leaking now. Otherwise I would probably go Mobil 1 10w30 high mileage or the 0w40 possibly. Also considering rotella so would appreciate some feedback on that. I'm in TN and its fairly hot now and gets down in 20's or so in the winter. What do u guys suggest to maybe slow the oil use and make the motor last the longest? Thanks guys!
 
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The 2JZ-GE engine in your IS300 is a fantastic engine. It will run with just about any type of oil. Toyota back-spec'd this engine to 5w-20 some years ago and I've been running it in my GS300 on and off. I've found the best success with Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 in my SC300 and in the GS300. Runs great, UOAs come back great and they are both the quietest on that oil. If you don't want to go synthetic, I would strongly consider Valvoline Maxlife 5w-30.
 
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First welcome to BITOG! Just so you know, your car has been back-spec'd for the 5W-20 grade although 5W-30 still remains an option for the 2001 MY. What that means is that your car does not inherently require a heavy oil. I'd stick to the 5W-30 grade and yes I would use a synthetic oil (anything on sale) and it will not cause oil leaks.
 
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Hello, Syn creating leaks is no longer true today, completely different chemistry from 20-30 years ago. Toyota engines love M1. IMO start with M1 HM 5w30, see how the initial cleanup/seal conditioning goes. Be patient, takes up to 5k/one OCI to see full benefits. Subsequent OCI's you can go longer and longer, 8-9k is about right. Having excellent success with the Fram Ultra on several toyotas, a filter to consider for extended intervals. At Walmart: M1 HM 5w30 5qt - $22.47 Fram Ultra - $8.97
 
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Understand it's not the same Toyota 3.0 that is known for sludging. If it were mine I'd be running high milage 10-30 or 5-30 (in your climate it won't really matter which and I doubt there will be a difference in consumption between them) and call it a day. Replacing the PCV valve is only a couple bucks and might make a difference, but at 1 qt every 2000 miles that seems like a reasonable amount you can live with. In short I'd go maxlife and check it every month or so.
 
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My Mom has a 2001 IS300 that my parents bought new in 2001. My Dad has put M1 5w30 in every 3K miles for the past 12 years and 150K later doesnt use any oil. Runs like a swiss watch. If yours is using oil, it was abused. These engines are solid. I would try the High Mileage 5w30 Mobil 1 and keep an eye on the oil level. If it burns or uses this oil, then there is somethign wrong. If you do not want to use a synthetic? I would run something like Valvoline High Mileage 5w30 and just keep tabs on the oil level. If it is using that much oil still? I hate to say it, you may be in for an expense. Jeff
 

blk99gst

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Wow, thanks for the quick replies guys! So def stay away from the 40 weights then I guess. I usually use six filters on my others cars so planning on going with a wix for the filters. So it seems Mobil 1 5w-30 high mileage should do me well. If it still consumes a decent amount, like over a qt ever 1-2k miles I may try a little thicker? I know the engine may not be perfect as a result of the previous owner but i wanna try to give it the best chance of lasting. And thanks for all the welcomes!
 
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M1 HM 5w30 is on the thick side of 5w30. You need to be patient for 2 reasons. Its the first time with syn for this engine, so it may consume a little more initially. Thats normal till a new glaze sets up. Secondly, HM oils take up 5k to see results. So just stay with M1 HM 5w30 for the entire initial 5k oci, don't dilute or blend it. Wix is a 95% @20um efficiency filter so if the oil looks unpleasant @3k, its the filter efficiency not the oil. M1 HM is high in cleaners, so it will look dark fast. Also would change the PCV valve with a new one from the dealer.
 
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Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Hello, Syn creating leaks is no longer true today, completely different chemistry from 20-30 years ago. Toyota engine. love M1...
People should stop saying things like this. I was told the same [censored] when I was thinking about switching my 100k RX300 to synthetic. I tried PP, M1 HM, & GTX HM. Multiple OCI's on the last 2 oil brands. The oil usage and smoke on startup never stopped. Switching back to VWB stopping the issues I saw with those 3 oils and it never consumed oil again. That Toyota engine didn't like synthetic. Other peoples may do just fine but making a general statement isn't helpful. The synthetic oil didn't cause the leaks or oil usage but it still leaked and wasn't suitable in that engine...
 
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Keep using the same oil that got the vehicle to 200k miles. Check with the service centre that has been doing the services prior to your purchase if you are unsure. Preferably the oil is one that has the OEM approval, not just meets the spec's. Don't get sucked into the hype that you need change because such and such is using blah...., brand X has been getting rave UOAs .......or brand Y lower viscosity is backed specked, its more robust, superior cleaning, has the latest fan dangled additives, puts hairs on the palms of your hand etc. BITOG is about matching the magic elixir oil to your vehicle, having got yours to 200k I think you have found yours.
 
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Originally Posted By: 2000RX300
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Hello, Syn creating leaks is no longer true today, completely different chemistry from 20-30 years ago. Toyota engine. love M1...
People should stop saying things like this. I was told the same [censored] when I was thinking about switching my 100k RX300 to synthetic. I tried PP, M1 HM, & GTX HM. Multiple OCI's on the last 2 oil brands. The oil usage and smoke on startup never stopped. Switching back to VWB stopping the issues I saw with those 3 oils and it never consumed oil again. That Toyota engine didn't like synthetic. Other peoples may do just fine but making a general statement isn't helpful. The synthetic oil didn't cause the leaks or oil usage but it still leaked and wasn't suitable in that engine...
You make no sense. We both say the synthetic oil didn't create/cause the leaks. Your just angry the oil wasn't a wrench to fix your mechanical problems for free. Nobody's made that claim. Get your engine fixed correctly.
 
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Is timing belt been change ? Ready for 600-800 dollar job . I would suggest get a lower miles or new/ used car if you want if dependable for wife and baby
 
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Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: 2000RX300
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Hello, Syn creating leaks is no longer true today, completely different chemistry from 20-30 years ago. Toyota engine. love M1...
You make no sense. We both say the synthetic oil didn't create/cause the leaks. Your just angry the oil wasn't a wrench to fix your mechanical problems for free. Nobody's made that claim. Get your engine fixed correctly.
I had no mechanical problems but I wanted to stretch out my OCI's. People like you make blanket statements that switching over to synthetic oil is okay, good, etc. It is not in every case. You made a blanket statement that "Toyota engines love M1". Can you prove that? I know that mine did not... I doubt that mine was/is the only one... It consumed Zero oil in its first 100k of its life and Zero oil after switching back to VWB (all the way to 178k when I traded it in). You are not helping anyone by making blanket statements especially without something to back it up.
 
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Originally Posted By: virginoil
Keep using the same oil that got the vehicle to 200k miles. BITOG is about matching the magic elixir oil to your vehicle, having got yours to 200k I think you have found yours.
Any API dino 5W-30 will get you to 200,000 miles if the car is properly maintained, there is nothing unusual about that. By the same token there in no reason not to take advantage of a synthetic oil since they can be had so cheaply in NA, and quite frankly IMO it's generally false economy not to. As I say, any syn' 5W-30 bought on sale is hard too beat.
 
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OP... I had the same desires and concerns when I got my Camry at only half the miles...I want it to last as long as possible too... Kitacam's not consuming as much oil as yours...but... ...as with your Lexus, the previous owner's maintenance and OCI was in doubt...soooo, I decided to do an inspection under the valve cover at the next OC... I pulled the valve cover at the 1st OC, 3k miles after I bought it...when I was planning to replace the spark plugs, PCV valve/vent hose, and valve cover gasket. The plugs could have gone a bit longer, but after 7 years and 100k miles that was time enough... The PCV valve (clogged) and hose (cracked) were DEFINITELY ready to go... The valve cover gasket was cardboardbrittle falling apart and it too needed to go... and as for the oil...under valve cover the engine was free of varnish and any gunk/sediment...just gold tarnishing... Kitacam had lost a bit less than a half quart @ 3200 using Pennzoil 5w-30 conventional and replaced that with Pennzoil Platinum (PP)syn 5w-30...and it's burning essentially the same...a half-quart @ 3500...I plan on changing the oil when it gets to "0", likely @ 5-6K miles.... ....and I'll use PP 5w-30 for the next 2 OCs since I got a couple of OCs (PP oil/K&N filter) on sale...the engine runs quiet and smooth...and changing oil @ 5-6K is my plan for the future...as a final note...should 2 years down the road I should find Pennzoil conventional on sale I'd have no hesitation in switching to it for a 5k OCI...both work just fine...if neither is on sale I'll just stay with PP as the difference is only $1.50/qt. ...in any case changing oil @ 5-6k miles is my plan for the next 100k miles...
 
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Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Keep using the same oil that got the vehicle to 200k miles. BITOG is about matching the magic elixir oil to your vehicle, having got yours to 200k I think you have found yours.
Any API dino 5W-30 will get you to 200,000 miles if the car is properly maintained, there is nothing unusual about that. By the same token there in no reason not to take advantage of a synthetic oil since they can be had so cheaply in NA, and quite frankly IMO it's generally false economy not to. As I say, any syn' 5W-30 bought on sale is hard too beat.
No disrespect here Caterham, I still strongly suggest to the OP keep using whatever oil the servicing centre has used to get the vehicle this far. I feel weary and tired of the hype to switch brands or grades at this stage of life for the vehicle in question in this case. The OPs key concern not chance any leaks. Newer oils with better cleaning packages always place the vehicle at risk of cleaning small false seal or removing small varnish layers that may become a leak. Best way to reduce any chance is don't play with oil chemistry within the engine by keep using the same oil brand with the appropriate spec IMO.
 
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Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Keep using the same oil that got the vehicle to 200k miles. BITOG is about matching the magic elixir oil to your vehicle, having got yours to 200k I think you have found yours.
Any API dino 5W-30 will get you to 200,000 miles if the car is properly maintained, there is nothing unusual about that. By the same token there in no reason not to take advantage of a synthetic oil since they can be had so cheaply in NA, and quite frankly IMO it's generally false economy not to. As I say, any syn' 5W-30 bought on sale is hard too beat.
No disrespect here Caterham, I still strongly suggest to the OP keep using whatever oil the servicing centre has used to get the vehicle this far. I feel weary and tired of the hype to switch brands or grades at this stage of life for the vehicle in question in this case. The OPs key concern not chance any leaks. Newer oils with better cleaning packages always place the vehicle at risk of cleaning small false seal or removing small varnish layers that may become a leak. Best way to reduce any chance is don't play with oil chemistry within the engine by keep using the same oil brand with the appropriate spec IMO.
The best post by far!! OP, don't switch over to syn oil, especially at 200k. Chances are that the VC gaskets hasn't been changed and are brittle. I'm sure the varnish layers are providing a "protection" layer, so it's currently not leaking. I can almost guarantee when you switch over to a good syn oil, it will clean this varnish and the brittle/old VC gasket will be exposed, thus allowing oil to seep through...then there is your leak. I know firsthand of this. I switch over to syn oil in my old car at 150k after using dino all its life. I had no leak at the time. I then switched over to ST syn (when it was only $12) and after 3k miles, I developed a leak in my old VC gaskets. I was [censored]. To make sure that people understand what I'm truly saying....syn oil alone will not cause a leak in a properly operating VC gasket. If you have a old/brittle gasket that's never been changed before and only encountered dino oil, then there is a high possibility that a seep will form over time after switching over due to cleaning abilities. This is plain fact. TinmanSC....I don't see you in the GS section of Club Lexus anymore..
 
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Fair enough. But remember, even the cleaning ability of a modern GF-5 dino is considerably better than a dino of only a few years ago, so for the past couple of years that's what's likely been used in the engine anyway.
 
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