motul seems to be extremly popular with subaru people,lots of their product have a pour point off -50 but ill be honest and say i dont know if it worth the difference,that oil is expensive,amsoil got competitive price.
Oil Recommendation for Subaru WRX STI (EJ207)
- Thread starter zaider
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I'm shocked that none of you thought of and recommended Esso
XD-3 0W30 (or 0W40). It:
1) Is a HDEO synthetic with PAO basestock. An Exxon-Mobil product.
2) Should be easily available in your Alberta area. (I have crossed the border here in Michigan and "smuggled" a case of the contraband back for my personal testing). It gets my two thumbs up for being as "stout" as anything that anyone else has mentioned.
If I am not mistaken, it is manufactured in the Alberta area. I'm sure someone will correct me.
XD-3 0W30 (or 0W40). It:
1) Is a HDEO synthetic with PAO basestock. An Exxon-Mobil product.
2) Should be easily available in your Alberta area. (I have crossed the border here in Michigan and "smuggled" a case of the contraband back for my personal testing). It gets my two thumbs up for being as "stout" as anything that anyone else has mentioned.
If I am not mistaken, it is manufactured in the Alberta area. I'm sure someone will correct me.
Originally Posted By: qship1996
Wow, no one recommending one of the group 3 based "synthetics"????What happened to all the cheerleaders for Ultra?????
Because he only asked about three oils: Amsoil, Eneos, and Shell Rotella Synthetic. Besides, you cannot get Ultra in Canada.
Wow, no one recommending one of the group 3 based "synthetics"????What happened to all the cheerleaders for Ultra?????
Because he only asked about three oils: Amsoil, Eneos, and Shell Rotella Synthetic. Besides, you cannot get Ultra in Canada.
Im not only asking about those three oils. If there is something else out there that would be better than those three choices then I am definitely open to it.
Those three oils came up because a) my shop has two of them and I was recommended the third by a friend whom I trust and who has the same motor (which is rare). He said he found out about it on this site and when I searched, I couldn't find what I was looking for.
Thanks again for all the recommendations! Most of the posts definitely result in more research on my part but I'm enjoying learning about it. I welcome more advice!
Those three oils came up because a) my shop has two of them and I was recommended the third by a friend whom I trust and who has the same motor (which is rare). He said he found out about it on this site and when I searched, I couldn't find what I was looking for.
Thanks again for all the recommendations! Most of the posts definitely result in more research on my part but I'm enjoying learning about it. I welcome more advice!
I do not stand corrected from his original post. And by the way, spell check please, it's Johnny.
Now zaider, if your friend with the exact same engine as yours is having good luck with the Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 and it is easy for you to get, then by all means give it a try. It is an excellent oil.
Another I would recommend if you can get it is the Mobil 1 0W-40, another excellent oil.
Now zaider, if your friend with the exact same engine as yours is having good luck with the Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 and it is easy for you to get, then by all means give it a try. It is an excellent oil.
Another I would recommend if you can get it is the Mobil 1 0W-40, another excellent oil.
On the cheap: Rotella T Syn 5w40
If you have money: Redline 10w40 in the summer, 5w30 in the winter. Many reports of this making turbo's spool faster, etc.
If you have money: Redline 10w40 in the summer, 5w30 in the winter. Many reports of this making turbo's spool faster, etc.
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In Canada you might be able to get Shell Rotella T Synthetic 0W-40. I believe it is available up there.
Welcome zaider. You have entered an "acronym rich" environment.
Sorry. I didn't mean to cause confusion. Those three oils that I originally mentioned were just a starting point. Im definitely open.
Originally Posted By: ledslinger
Welcome zaider. You have entered an "acronym rich" environment.
Yeah, but its the same as when I started with Subarus. I didn't know what any of the acronyms mean and now it seems as though Im often the one explaining them to new members. Besides, the more I learn, the more I find new topics that I want to learn about, so there is always new acronyms to learn.
I can definitely get all of these oils that you guys have been mentioning. The other fluids in my car that Im running are all Motul fluids (trans, rear diff and brake/clutch fluid). I briefly looked into running redline fluids but its not as easy to find unless I order it through one of the vendors on my club's forum and that is less than desirable.
So far, what im getting is that the Rotella is a good oil and that since my friend is using it and liking it, that I should go with it as well.
The Rotella and the Amsoil seem to be favoured over the Eneos. Is this due to a lack of information about the Eneos or are there more specific reasons?
As far as price is concerned, Im not terribly concerned. Compared to the overall cost of the swap and the cost of the other consumables (tires, brake pads, gas), the cost of motor oil isn't a major issue. Of course, its always nicer to get away with spending less but if there is good reason to go a more expensive oil, Im ok with it.
Another question I have: How bad is it to change motor oil types during a regular oil change, without any sort of flush? For instance, going from the Rotella to the Amsoil or Mobil 1?
Finally, any oils that I should definitely stay away from?
As always, thanks for all the information, I hope Im doing an ok job keeping up.
Originally Posted By: ledslinger
Welcome zaider. You have entered an "acronym rich" environment.
Yeah, but its the same as when I started with Subarus. I didn't know what any of the acronyms mean and now it seems as though Im often the one explaining them to new members. Besides, the more I learn, the more I find new topics that I want to learn about, so there is always new acronyms to learn.
I can definitely get all of these oils that you guys have been mentioning. The other fluids in my car that Im running are all Motul fluids (trans, rear diff and brake/clutch fluid). I briefly looked into running redline fluids but its not as easy to find unless I order it through one of the vendors on my club's forum and that is less than desirable.
So far, what im getting is that the Rotella is a good oil and that since my friend is using it and liking it, that I should go with it as well.
The Rotella and the Amsoil seem to be favoured over the Eneos. Is this due to a lack of information about the Eneos or are there more specific reasons?
As far as price is concerned, Im not terribly concerned. Compared to the overall cost of the swap and the cost of the other consumables (tires, brake pads, gas), the cost of motor oil isn't a major issue. Of course, its always nicer to get away with spending less but if there is good reason to go a more expensive oil, Im ok with it.
Another question I have: How bad is it to change motor oil types during a regular oil change, without any sort of flush? For instance, going from the Rotella to the Amsoil or Mobil 1?
Finally, any oils that I should definitely stay away from?
As always, thanks for all the information, I hope Im doing an ok job keeping up.
Originally Posted By: zaider
The Rotella and the Amsoil seem to be favoured over the Eneos. Is this due to a lack of information about the Eneos or are there more specific reasons?
Lack of information.
Originally Posted By: zaider
Another question I have: How bad is it to change motor oil types during a regular oil change, without any sort of flush? For instance, going from the Rotella to the Amsoil or Mobil 1?
Not bad at all. There are only three small caveats:
1. The first time you run the new oil, you might want to change it slightly early.
2. Oil consumption might spike. This would be entirely normal and would settle down after a few oil changes.
3. If you do an oil analysis on the new oil, the wear metal numbers might be a little funky. This would also be normal and nothing to worry about.
Originally Posted By: zaider
Finally, any oils that I should definitely stay away from?
- Anything thinner or lower quality than stock.
- A viscosity grade of xw-50 or thicker.
- Mercedes Benz 229.31 or 229.51 (note the 1 on the end), BMW LL-04, or Volkswagen 507.xx approvals. These are for vehicles with sensitive emissions systems, like modern diesels with particulate filters, and they run a bit low on certain additives that your engine could really use. They're kind of rare though, so you're unlikely to find them unless you're looking. One example is Mobil 1 ESP.
- Non-detergent racing oils.
- Oils designed specifically for fuel economy and advertised as such.
That's all I can come up with at the moment...
The Rotella and the Amsoil seem to be favoured over the Eneos. Is this due to a lack of information about the Eneos or are there more specific reasons?
Lack of information.
Originally Posted By: zaider
Another question I have: How bad is it to change motor oil types during a regular oil change, without any sort of flush? For instance, going from the Rotella to the Amsoil or Mobil 1?
Not bad at all. There are only three small caveats:
1. The first time you run the new oil, you might want to change it slightly early.
2. Oil consumption might spike. This would be entirely normal and would settle down after a few oil changes.
3. If you do an oil analysis on the new oil, the wear metal numbers might be a little funky. This would also be normal and nothing to worry about.
Originally Posted By: zaider
Finally, any oils that I should definitely stay away from?
- Anything thinner or lower quality than stock.
- A viscosity grade of xw-50 or thicker.
- Mercedes Benz 229.31 or 229.51 (note the 1 on the end), BMW LL-04, or Volkswagen 507.xx approvals. These are for vehicles with sensitive emissions systems, like modern diesels with particulate filters, and they run a bit low on certain additives that your engine could really use. They're kind of rare though, so you're unlikely to find them unless you're looking. One example is Mobil 1 ESP.
- Non-detergent racing oils.
- Oils designed specifically for fuel economy and advertised as such.
That's all I can come up with at the moment...
By the way, if you're going to branch out, here are two more things to add to your list:
1. The Honda HTO-06 spec is one of the toughest tests for high temperature stability and coking prevention. Those attributes would serve your turbo well. If you see an oil with that approval, that's a plus. As an aside, you may notice that Amsoil SSO doesn't carry the approval, but Amsoil claims it'll meet that spec.
2. If you have a BMW dealership near you, check out the BMW-branded 5w-30 synthetic. Castrol makes it for them and it's pretty stout. It's basically the poster child for the BMW LL-01 spec, which means it'll stay nice and thick in your bearings (HTHS at least 3.5) and withstand some serious punishment. They use it in most of their current engines, including the twin turbocharged ones in the (gag) X5 M and X6 M, in all climates.
1. The Honda HTO-06 spec is one of the toughest tests for high temperature stability and coking prevention. Those attributes would serve your turbo well. If you see an oil with that approval, that's a plus. As an aside, you may notice that Amsoil SSO doesn't carry the approval, but Amsoil claims it'll meet that spec.
2. If you have a BMW dealership near you, check out the BMW-branded 5w-30 synthetic. Castrol makes it for them and it's pretty stout. It's basically the poster child for the BMW LL-01 spec, which means it'll stay nice and thick in your bearings (HTHS at least 3.5) and withstand some serious punishment. They use it in most of their current engines, including the twin turbocharged ones in the (gag) X5 M and X6 M, in all climates.
I think I have seen one uoa on Eneos and it was decent as I recall. Their "Synthetic" oils are made with Group III base stocks and their "Full Synthetics" are Group IV. Pricey for Group III IMO.
Have you thought about using Motul in the engine? dOOdfOOd knows Motul like the back of his hand.
I actually ran the Eco-nergy 5W-30 one winter and it held up well, but would probably run something more robust for your application.
-Dennis
Have you thought about using Motul in the engine? dOOdfOOd knows Motul like the back of his hand.
-Dennis
Yeah, Motul is a HUGE favorite on the scoobie forums. Those cars definitely love it. 300v would definitely work well in it.
Plenty Sccobs here in SA and the UK use Motul 300V...mostly the 10w-40 and 15w-50...with your winter temps you can consider the 0w-20 or 5w-30. Never hear one modder or customer complain about issues using this lube and plenty are pushing 300+ KW at the wheels.
Thanks guys.
I think Im going to try running the Shell in a 5w30 for the summer and seeing how that works out.
Along those lines, what should I be on the lookout for to determine if the Shell is working well or if I need to switch to something else like the Amsoil?
I think Im going to try running the Shell in a 5w30 for the summer and seeing how that works out.
Along those lines, what should I be on the lookout for to determine if the Shell is working well or if I need to switch to something else like the Amsoil?
Originally Posted By: zaider
Thanks guys.
I think Im going to try running the Shell in a 5w30 for the summer and seeing how that works out.
Along those lines, what should I be on the lookout for to determine if the Shell is working well or if I need to switch to something else like the Amsoil?
So you didn't like anyone's advice, huh?
I would keep an eye on consumption and do a uoa at a maximum of 3,000 miles. A uoa will quite possibly show the oil shearing to a 20 grade.
Subaru will tell you 1 qt/per 1,000 miles is acceptable, but I would move to another oil if it's one quart per 3,000 miles.
Good luck!
-Dennis
Thanks guys.
I think Im going to try running the Shell in a 5w30 for the summer and seeing how that works out.
Along those lines, what should I be on the lookout for to determine if the Shell is working well or if I need to switch to something else like the Amsoil?
So you didn't like anyone's advice, huh?
I would keep an eye on consumption and do a uoa at a maximum of 3,000 miles. A uoa will quite possibly show the oil shearing to a 20 grade.
Subaru will tell you 1 qt/per 1,000 miles is acceptable, but I would move to another oil if it's one quart per 3,000 miles.
Good luck!
-Dennis
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