I'd go with 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra or Castrol Edge. Mobil1 is also an excellent choice, but I wound't recommend Mobil1 right now because they're revamping their whole line of synthetics. Don't really know what results new formulation might bring. But for sure M1 would work just fine.
Oil Recommendation for Hyundai Sonata 2.0T
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While the service manager says dino is ok, being a Turbo and DI I'd feel better with synthetic. JMO.
Hyundai does recommend QS, figure they must have some type of sponsorship agreement/deal with them.
I suppose QSHP UD would be ok, but PP does meet the Honda turbo spec, thus being my first choice here.
Hyundai does recommend QS, figure they must have some type of sponsorship agreement/deal with them.
I suppose QSHP UD would be ok, but PP does meet the Honda turbo spec, thus being my first choice here.
my 1st thought that came to mind after reading post one was, Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30. A3/B3
Any reason not to use this oil in that engine?
Any reason not to use this oil in that engine?
Originally Posted By: hooligan24
my 1st thought that came to mind after reading post one was, Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30. A3/B3
Any reason not to use this oil in that engine?
mmm, probably havent hit 75k miles yet..
my 1st thought that came to mind after reading post one was, Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30. A3/B3
Any reason not to use this oil in that engine?
mmm, probably havent hit 75k miles yet..
Originally Posted By: hooligan24
my 1st thought that came to mind after reading post one was, Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30. A3/B3
Any reason not to use this oil in that engine?
I like the HTO-06 spec on the non HM 5w30 better because HTO-06 is specifically made for a turbo'ed I4 engine. ACEA specs change every year so if A3/B3 is all you can see without a year next to it then for all you know, it might be an obsolete spec.
Oh yeah also the warranty issue. M1 10w30 HM is SL/GF-3.
my 1st thought that came to mind after reading post one was, Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30. A3/B3
Any reason not to use this oil in that engine?
I like the HTO-06 spec on the non HM 5w30 better because HTO-06 is specifically made for a turbo'ed I4 engine. ACEA specs change every year so if A3/B3 is all you can see without a year next to it then for all you know, it might be an obsolete spec.
Oh yeah also the warranty issue. M1 10w30 HM is SL/GF-3.
Originally Posted By: hooligan24
my 1st thought that came to mind after reading post one was, Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30. A3/B3
Any reason not to use this oil in that engine?
Yes, two reasons, its rated API SL when I'm betting the owner's manual for the 2011 Hyundai in question requires API SM, and it's 10w30 rather than the recommended 5w30.
The M1 I would choose for this car is M1 ESP 5w30. It's API SM and ACEA A3/B3/B4.
my 1st thought that came to mind after reading post one was, Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30. A3/B3
Any reason not to use this oil in that engine?
Yes, two reasons, its rated API SL when I'm betting the owner's manual for the 2011 Hyundai in question requires API SM, and it's 10w30 rather than the recommended 5w30.
The M1 I would choose for this car is M1 ESP 5w30. It's API SM and ACEA A3/B3/B4.
A good friend of mine recently purchased a 2011 Hyundai 2.0T Sonata. She will soon be asking me for OC service advice. I am a big believer in Mobil 1 and have had good results with extended intervals (6k to 8k) in older GM big V8’s since new, now running past 180k miles with zero wear issues.
I understand the turbo may not allow for long extended Intervals using full synthetics, however I am hoping that 4k intervals using 40wt M1 (Oklahoma summer driving, typical trip average, 30 miles) are realistic. Is this unreasonable? She is not as devoted to regular routine maintenance as I’d like, and this is why I’d like to see her use full synthetic in case she goes beyond 3k, as she probably will.
Am I the only one who is apprehensive about getting oil changes done at a dealer when full synth of a particular weight is wanted/paid for? I will try and talk her into using a local oil change outfit I am very confident in, but not sure if I can persuade her that “dealer service” is not necessarily what it’s cracked up to be, and can be much more costly.
Has anyone performed regular oil monitoring/testing on the 2.0t using blends or full synthetics?
Does the 2011 Sonata SE have a service interval indicator (oil change) in the driver information center? If, so, what sort of intervals can one expect under normal driving conditions in 95 degree + summer driving?
I understand the turbo may not allow for long extended Intervals using full synthetics, however I am hoping that 4k intervals using 40wt M1 (Oklahoma summer driving, typical trip average, 30 miles) are realistic. Is this unreasonable? She is not as devoted to regular routine maintenance as I’d like, and this is why I’d like to see her use full synthetic in case she goes beyond 3k, as she probably will.
Am I the only one who is apprehensive about getting oil changes done at a dealer when full synth of a particular weight is wanted/paid for? I will try and talk her into using a local oil change outfit I am very confident in, but not sure if I can persuade her that “dealer service” is not necessarily what it’s cracked up to be, and can be much more costly.
Has anyone performed regular oil monitoring/testing on the 2.0t using blends or full synthetics?
Does the 2011 Sonata SE have a service interval indicator (oil change) in the driver information center? If, so, what sort of intervals can one expect under normal driving conditions in 95 degree + summer driving?
I have a 2012 Sonata 2.0T and the manual recommends API Service SM, either 5W-30 or 5W-40 -- it says nothing about synthetic or otherwise. The dealer used Penzoil 10W20 (manual footnote: "for better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-20 API SM"), and it was just replaced with Castrol GTX 5W30 (it says 5W30 on the oil cap). It appears to me if the oil meets the "SM" spec, then it is good. Here's what I've discovered on the internet...
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915464&contentId=6003410
CASTROL GTX SAE 5W-30:is a premium, super multi-grade that provides maximum cold weather engine protection and can help extend engine life. SAE 5W-30 exceeds API Service SM, SL, SJ and SH, as well as exceeding all the requirements of ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2 for PI Certified Gasoline Engine Oils and meets Energy Conserving Standards.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/...nzoil_8040017-p
Pennzoil 5W20 Conventional Motor Oil with Active Cleansing Agents continuously helps prevent dirt and contaminants from turning into performance-robbing deposits, helping keep your engine clean to maintain responsiveness. It meets or exceeds the engine protection required by ILSAC GF-4 (5W20, 5W30, 10W30) or API SM and is specially formulated to provide extra protection against the harmful effects of stop-and-go driving and high-low temperature engine operation.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Switching_Synthetic_Motor_Oil.aspx
Ask Mobil
Question:
What Will Happen Switching From Synthetic Motor Oil to Conventional Oil? I have been in the mechanic business for 8 years and was always taught that you cannot go back to conventional oil from synthetic oil. I have seen the damage caused by going back to conventional. Is it true that you can switch back to conventional with no damage to your engine?
-- Jimi Peranteu, Essington, PA
Answer:
Synthetic oils will provide better protection than conventional oils, but switching back and forth between full synthetic and conventional oil will not damage the engine. Of course, this depends on the current engine condition and the quality of the conventional oil being used.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/products/4213451POPULAR MECHANICS:
Q: After a recent trip to two major auto parts dealers for oil (5W30), I realized synthetic oil is slowly replacing [conventional] oil on the display shelves. The problem is, I'm getting conflicting information about synthetic oil….
A: Early synthetics got a bad reputation for leaking. This was because, despite the claims of the oil manufacturers, the seal-swell characteristics of the new synthetics were different from those of the mineral oils they replaced. If the seal-swell rate was lower, the seals shrank and oil leaked from crankshaft seals and rocker cover seals. If the rate was higher, the seals swelled a little extra and the engine was tight. Then if the owner changed back to mineral oil, or added a quart when no synthetic was to be had, things got really bad. The crank seals had become worn, in their turgid state, and then relaxed. The valve cover seals were compressed when swelled, and when the different oil was added, everything leaked like, well, an old English sports car.
Fortunately, the situation has improved; you should have no problem switching back and forth. Adding a quart of mineral oil to a crankcase full of synthetic will be fine. Read the fine print -- a lot of the "synthetics" on the market are blends containing a substantial proportion of mineral oil.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915464&contentId=6003410
CASTROL GTX SAE 5W-30:is a premium, super multi-grade that provides maximum cold weather engine protection and can help extend engine life. SAE 5W-30 exceeds API Service SM, SL, SJ and SH, as well as exceeding all the requirements of ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2 for PI Certified Gasoline Engine Oils and meets Energy Conserving Standards.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/...nzoil_8040017-p
Pennzoil 5W20 Conventional Motor Oil with Active Cleansing Agents continuously helps prevent dirt and contaminants from turning into performance-robbing deposits, helping keep your engine clean to maintain responsiveness. It meets or exceeds the engine protection required by ILSAC GF-4 (5W20, 5W30, 10W30) or API SM and is specially formulated to provide extra protection against the harmful effects of stop-and-go driving and high-low temperature engine operation.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Switching_Synthetic_Motor_Oil.aspx
Ask Mobil
Question:
What Will Happen Switching From Synthetic Motor Oil to Conventional Oil? I have been in the mechanic business for 8 years and was always taught that you cannot go back to conventional oil from synthetic oil. I have seen the damage caused by going back to conventional. Is it true that you can switch back to conventional with no damage to your engine?
-- Jimi Peranteu, Essington, PA
Answer:
Synthetic oils will provide better protection than conventional oils, but switching back and forth between full synthetic and conventional oil will not damage the engine. Of course, this depends on the current engine condition and the quality of the conventional oil being used.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/products/4213451POPULAR MECHANICS:
Q: After a recent trip to two major auto parts dealers for oil (5W30), I realized synthetic oil is slowly replacing [conventional] oil on the display shelves. The problem is, I'm getting conflicting information about synthetic oil….
A: Early synthetics got a bad reputation for leaking. This was because, despite the claims of the oil manufacturers, the seal-swell characteristics of the new synthetics were different from those of the mineral oils they replaced. If the seal-swell rate was lower, the seals shrank and oil leaked from crankshaft seals and rocker cover seals. If the rate was higher, the seals swelled a little extra and the engine was tight. Then if the owner changed back to mineral oil, or added a quart when no synthetic was to be had, things got really bad. The crank seals had become worn, in their turgid state, and then relaxed. The valve cover seals were compressed when swelled, and when the different oil was added, everything leaked like, well, an old English sports car.
Fortunately, the situation has improved; you should have no problem switching back and forth. Adding a quart of mineral oil to a crankcase full of synthetic will be fine. Read the fine print -- a lot of the "synthetics" on the market are blends containing a substantial proportion of mineral oil.
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don't use Xw20, that's only for the normally aspirated 2.4. Use a good synthetic Xw40 in the summer. use a good synthetic Xw30 in the winter. the OCI is 4.8k miles normal, 3K severe no matter what you use. low/mid saps oil gives up in these engines at that interval as per testing.
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Originally Posted By: STexan
I understand the turbo may not allow for long extended Intervals using full synthetics, however I am hoping that 4k intervals using 40wt M1 (Oklahoma summer driving, typical trip average, 30 miles) are realistic.
M1 0w40 should be plenty for the factory mandated max of
Is this unreasonable?
no.
She is not as devoted to regular routine maintenance as I’d like, and this is why I’d like to see her use full synthetic in case she goes beyond 3k, as she probably will.
good choice then.
Am I the only one who is apprehensive about getting oil changes done at a dealer when full synth of a particular weight is wanted/paid for?
no. hyundai forums are full of posts of the dealer putting/trying to put dino 5W20 into these.
I will try and talk her into using a local oil change outfit I am very confident in, but not sure if I can persuade her that “dealer service” is not necessarily what it’s cracked up to be, and can be much more costly.
Has anyone performed regular oil monitoring/testing on the 2.0t using blends or full synthetics?
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/135244-oil-analysis-reports-only.html
Does the 2011 Sonata SE have a service interval indicator (oil change) in the driver information center?
no.
If, so, what sort of intervals can one expect under normal driving conditions in 95 degree + summer driving?
as above.
I understand the turbo may not allow for long extended Intervals using full synthetics, however I am hoping that 4k intervals using 40wt M1 (Oklahoma summer driving, typical trip average, 30 miles) are realistic.
M1 0w40 should be plenty for the factory mandated max of
Is this unreasonable?
no.
She is not as devoted to regular routine maintenance as I’d like, and this is why I’d like to see her use full synthetic in case she goes beyond 3k, as she probably will.
good choice then.
Am I the only one who is apprehensive about getting oil changes done at a dealer when full synth of a particular weight is wanted/paid for?
no. hyundai forums are full of posts of the dealer putting/trying to put dino 5W20 into these.
I will try and talk her into using a local oil change outfit I am very confident in, but not sure if I can persuade her that “dealer service” is not necessarily what it’s cracked up to be, and can be much more costly.
Has anyone performed regular oil monitoring/testing on the 2.0t using blends or full synthetics?
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/135244-oil-analysis-reports-only.html
Does the 2011 Sonata SE have a service interval indicator (oil change) in the driver information center?
no.
If, so, what sort of intervals can one expect under normal driving conditions in 95 degree + summer driving?
as above.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/attachment...-canada-oil.pdf
they still can't get the reason right, lol!
they still can't get the reason right, lol!
EXCELENT uoaS running PP 5w30 in my 2.3L DI turbo Mazda. Using 6K oil/filter change and, this oil and M1 meets the Honda/Acura turbo spec. Walmart 5Q jug for ~ $27:50.
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I have a similar engine in my Mitsubishi.
I use 10w30 Castrol Edge because it performs well in the sequence IVA test, which tests wear on flat OHC lifters. I choose 10w30 over 5w30 because it might reduce shear, and the high temp viscosity in a turbo engine is important.
I change the oil at 5000 miles only because the warranty requires it.
Also, I run a Royal Purple synthetic oil filter because those were the only synthetic filters I could get at the time.
I use 10w30 Castrol Edge because it performs well in the sequence IVA test, which tests wear on flat OHC lifters. I choose 10w30 over 5w30 because it might reduce shear, and the high temp viscosity in a turbo engine is important.
I change the oil at 5000 miles only because the warranty requires it.
Also, I run a Royal Purple synthetic oil filter because those were the only synthetic filters I could get at the time.
Since it allows the use of 5W40 that is what I would use in your car or a 40wt of some sort. With the fuel dilution it will probably shear down to a 30wt with use and fuel in it so you will still be in spec. My Kia Optima has the 2.4 GDI and it recommends 5W20 for best economy but also allows 5W30 or 10W30 as far back as an SL rating. The FF which I assume was 5W20 looked like tar at 2,500 miles when I changed it. The fumes from the oil were so bad I thought it was going to knock me out. With that change I filled it with FS 5W30/SM conventional which now has 3,500 miles on it and it actually a light to medium brown color. I realize that color is not necessarily an indicator of oil condition but the pitch black diesel looking FF was scary. By the look and the smell of my current oil I do not see how I could extend my OCI's to 7,500k as the manual recommends for light driving since most of my driving is highway cruising. I do not have a turbo so I will stick to conventional oil since it looks like I will be changing oil every 3,750 miles. Around here that may only take 4-6 weeks but I do not feel right going any further on an oil that smells like a gas can. Reminds me of the older cars with bad carbs. I also realized that my oil level has gone up which I assume is the gas in it. With that much fuel in the oil I imagine it has to be affecting its quality and protection. Unless the heat of the turbo does a better job of dissipating the fuel I imagine it is even worse on those. My suggestion from the experience with my car is a 5w40/0W40 for your application.
+1 on never using 20wt in the turbo that is for the 2.4 only and as far as recommended oil in the Kia manual? It does not say that they specifically recommend it but by the oil specs somewhere in the manual it has a graphic for Total Quartz. I thought that was interesting.
I would try Castrol Edge w/ syntec 0w30.
Its a thick w30, almost a w40. Good startup protection, good cold crank, cant go wrong with that in my opinion, just womder if it meet the turbo spec.
Its a thick w30, almost a w40. Good startup protection, good cold crank, cant go wrong with that in my opinion, just womder if it meet the turbo spec.
As others have recommended any oil that meets the HTO-06 turbo spec' is a good choice such as PP 5W-30.
For the way you use the car anything heavier would be counter-productive.
For the way you use the car anything heavier would be counter-productive.
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