Oil recommendation for a very high mileage 1990 Acord?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 22, 2004
Messages
1,983
Location
New Brunswick
Well, my parents are getting rid of the Mazda van pretty soon. They just bought a 1990 honda Accord EX-R with, get this, 462000 kms! That's approximately 287000 miles to you non-metric people. The car starts up and runs fine, with a very slight bit of engine noise. The only things wrong with this car that we know of right now is a faulty gas gauge, bad CV joint and some rust around the rear fenders.
 
Personally, I would use the cheapest API certified dino oil you could find. Why bother with anything more expensive?
 
I agree with AstroVic. Use Havoline, Castrol, Pennzoil in whatever grade recommended by owners manual. It is probably too late for synthetic. You might consider an AutoRx treatment or at least change the oil every 2-3K miles for the first couple of oil changes....until you get a feel for the level of maintenance required.

If it begins using some oil between OCIs.....the High Mileage oils might be an option.
 
Before you turn to the oil, is the maintanence up to date?

At that kinda mileage, I don't think oil should be your first concern.
 
Plenty of life left in that one. Just keep replacing those CV axles -- they go bad all the time.

Start with brand name 10W-30 non-synthetic, such as Castrol GTX 10W-30. If this leads to excessive consumtion, try 10W-40. If that does not help, go up to 15W-40.
 
I'd use Havoline 10-40 or Castrol GTX 10-40 ......if that is a little to thick ( Gas mileage suffers etc) then I'd tone it down to those two brands 10-30....
 
offtopic.gif
Do you know if any major work had ever been done to the engine?
 
I had an accord with miles on it very similar to the one you described. It liked to run on any dino 10-40 in the summer and 10-30 in the winter. I tried using 5-30, and even though it makes no sense, it ran worse. It also burned more oil with the 5-30. (Only about a half quart in two months). Good cars, but I wouldn't assume that it has a huge amount of miles left in it. It could last a lot longer, but statistically it's days are numbered.
 
I have a Honda Civic wagon with 376k miles and the only major repair was the replacement of the camshaft about 100k miles ago. I put myself thru college buying smokers, cleaning them up and selling them. Here is what I'd do. Take the car to your local Honda repair shop (a clean one) and have the car checked, just like buying a used car. If you think it's worth keeping, have any safety related workd done. Then start on the engine. Pour a pint of Marvel Mystry Oil in the crankcase and drive it for a couple of hundred miles. Check the oil filter to see if it feels warm when the engine warms up, if not it's plugged, change the oil and filter. Do this cycle of changing the oil, adding a pint of MMO, drive a couple of hundred miles and change it again, three times. Use a good 10w-30 dyno oil and be prepaired to add oil during each cycle. During these three cycles add MMO to the gas tank following the instructions on the bottle, no more, no less. When done get a new filter and one of those big jugs of Mobil 1 15w-40 (Wal-Mart) oil and you're on your way. Just keep a hand on that oil filter to see if it's not quite as warm as it should be.

With my Honda I add a pint of MMO about once a year or when it starts to smoke on startup or when letting off the gas comming up to a stop sign. I use a synthetic oil and have, thru 20 years, gone from 5w-30 to 10w-30 to 10w-40 and now 20w-50 base on oil consumption. I have original compression and the car runs great. With careful driving I'm getting 37/40 mpg and the engine head has not been off. I change the oil at 5k intervals and it burns about half a quart in that time. When it starts to smoke on start up I do not notice an increase in oil consumption. By the way I think synthetic is worth considering if you keep cars more than two or three years. Synthetic is better in every way except the purchase price.

Then it's time to get after the coolant, brake fulid and transmission, all thing you can do in the driveway.
 
Am I the only one that would be nervous about auto rxing that engine. I would think you might start some serious leaks. I say run the cheapest dino you can find and just hope you can keep it on the road.
 
I'd sure like to do an A-RX run in that car, but since I might be ordering myself some LC and FP in a few weeks, I might use some of that in the Accord.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom