Oil Recommendation for 2006 Infiniti G35 Coupe

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Warm up is a little to do with viscosity but mainly chemistry. Oil works when up to temperature as that's when it starts to lay down anti wear layers.

13-18? Where did you make this number up from ? How do 10cSt 30 grades work? Or 23cSt 10W-60s?
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Not quite.
If you're running an oil sufficiently thin enough the by-pass valve will of course be closed.


And here you continue on with the generalization that you just agreed with me above that is engine-specific but you can't help but keep using it.

There are Chrysler engines that are always on bypass. I believe another member mentioned that this was the case with certain Mercedes designs as well.

In the case of those examples, the only time the relief is closed is when the engine is off.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Depending on the oil pump bypass setting, the oil's viscosity must to be no higher than about 13-18cSt in kinematic terms, regardless of the oil grade, to be able to use high rev's with the valve closed.
The lighter the oil grade, the lower the oil temperature the valve will remain closed.


That's complete malarky and you've pulled those numbers out of your posterior. How can you quote an exact range for kinematic viscosity but preface it with "depending on the oil pump bypass setting". If it depends on the oil pump bypass setting, then it isn't an exact range! That range might be valid for a specific engine with a specific oil pump with a specific relief pressure. But that of course removes the "depending on the oil pump bypass setting" qualifier because it will be a specific oil pump bypass setting in conjunction with those other specifics which works with your stated range for high RPM relief operation.

You cannot agree with me that all engines are different and subsequently act differently in terms of relief operation and then turn around and continue to talk as if every engine is the same. Either you understand that they are NOT all the same, or you don't. Saying you do and then demonstrating otherwise isn't helping you here.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Ironically the boy racer owners of sporty cars are more inclined to buy into the notion that they need to use a heavier than specified oil grade because they "drive hard". These individuals in my experience are the last ones to pay any attention to warming-up the car properly before bouncing the tach needle off redline and therefore would be much better off running the specified oil grade with the highest VI possible.


They'd be better off learning how to properly drive their cars. It doesn't matter if they have magic Unicorn semen in their sumps or 10w-60, if they are going WOT on a cold engine, they are slapping the pistons into the sides of the bores, they are hammering bearings that are out of round, and all of these parts are quickly being forced up to temperature, at different rates, while the oil is being diluted with fuel and cold start enrichment is washing the protection from the bores.

VI doesn't magically negate the mechanical side of the warm-up process and isn't a magic panacea for stupidity. [/quote] What is it about heavy oil grade advocates that are so prone to exaggeration?
If the oil grade is light enough, operating at it's design optimum operational viscosity, a high powered engine can operate safely under load at maximum rev's at subnormal coolant temp's.

So it is stupid to blindly recommend a heavier than specified oil grade without knowing how the vehicle is going to be operated which has happened in this thread.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
What is it about heavy oil grade advocates that are so prone to exaggeration?


Coming from the guy talking about massive mechanical damage by running a grade heavier at above 0C temps that's pretty rich, LOL!

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If the oil grade is light enough, operating at it's design optimum operational viscosity, a high powered engine can operate safely under load at maximum rev's at subnormal coolant temp's.


This is getting borderline ridiculous. How is an oil, which warms up slower than the coolant, going to be "at its design optimum operational viscosity" when the engine is at subnormal coolant temperature? Are we installing an oil heater and dipping the engine in dry ice?

I guess we are just ignoring the mechanical side of the warm up process too, since we are now making up conditions to push our agenda, right?
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Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
So it is stupid to blindly recommend a heavier than specified oil grade without knowing how the vehicle is going to be operated which has happened in this thread.


I think it is stupid to pretend that the mechanical side of the warm up process is magically negated by running a thinner lubricant, as it clearly demonstrates you have no idea what happens during warm-up.

For the record, I'm not advocating the OP run a heavier than spec lubricant. My issue is exclusively with your Chicken Little fear mongering in every thread where somebody recommends something heavier than what the OEM spec's for a particular engine in North America.

The science and approval process as well as the OEM testing regiments all verify that this isn't going to cause damage. Yet you continue to make claims that get increasing ridiculous just so you can hock your high VI sales pitch and hopefully get some people to buy into it. It's like getting a call from some guy in India claiming he's from Microsoft and then uses a whole pile of "computer talk" to get people to believe him.
 
caterham. Do you know why oil pressure exists?

A bearing doesn't need any pressure, it just needs oil flow. It's perfectly capable of making its own pressure to support combustion loads
 
Using a grade thicker oil would do much less damage than using thinner than specified by manufacturer.
There are plenty of Euro manufacturers that recommend use of thicker oil if car is intended to use in a sporty manner. In my AR handbook it action wrote; your car came with 5w-40 oil but for sport or track use we recommend use of 10w60 because engine will be protected better in this conditions. Renaultsport had similar recommendations.
Yes, you could argue that this are specific conditions, and that there are no recommendations for normal day-to-day use, but it would seems that they are confident enough to do so.
BMW and Mustang are other examples with similar recommendations.

Edit; actually wrote
 
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL


Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If the oil grade is light enough, operating at it's design optimum operational viscosity, a high powered engine can operate safely under load at maximum rev's at subnormal coolant temp's.



This is getting borderline ridiculous. How is an oil, which warms up slower than the coolant, going to be "at its design optimum operational viscosity" when the engine is at subnormal coolant temperature? Are we installing an oil heater and dipping the engine in dry ice?

You know I thought you were smart enough to figure that one out, but I guess not when you're in one of your attack mode.
I said "If the oil grade is light enough,".
A high VI oil like Sustina 0W-20 might not be quite light enough but a new 0W-16 might be as well as Motul 0W-15 and even lighter 0W-10, 0W-5 and 0W-2 race oils certainly will be.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

You know I thought you were smart enough to figure that one out, but I guess not when you're in one of your attack mode.
I said "If the oil grade is light enough,".
A high VI oil like Sustina 0W-20 might not be quite light enough but a new 0W-16 might be as well as Motul 0W-15 and even lighter 0W-10, 0W-5 and 0W-2 race oils certainly will be.


LOL! And he switches to personal attack mode! Bravo!

Yes, you did say if the oil grade is light enough. You seem to have missed the point. Coolant comes up to temp before the oil does. Ergo, the situation you are describing doesn't exist.

Let's break this down. You stated:

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

If the oil grade is light enough, operating at it's design optimum operational viscosity,


Now, if an oil is at its design optimum operational viscosity, what temperature is that at? OPERATIONAL viscosity for a lubricant is around 100C. In the range of 100C is where it is designed to be operated. Hence the term "operational viscosity". And your went even further to put a point on this and used the term "optimum". Anything below normal full oil temp is not optimum and you've stated that on here. We still on the same page?

So then you follow that with this:

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
a high powered engine can operate safely under load at maximum rev's at subnormal coolant temp's.


Now, unless we are heating the oil and dry icing the engine, these two situations are not going to be occurring at the same time. You are not going to have the oil at its "design optimum operational viscosity" and the coolant at a level that could be considered "sub normal". This is because the coolant comes up to temp faster than the oil. This happens even if you have a heat exchanger for the oil to bring it up to temp faster (like my car has).

You've created a situation that doesn't exist to try and prop up your collapsing point here. I'm not in an attack mode, you are just in the grips of a VI binge that has got you so frothy that you are making up scenarios to support it.

Take a breather. Nobody's engine is self destructing because they're not running a 200+ VI oil. This does not need to be as dramatic as you try and make it. You can extol the virtues of a higher VI lubricant (lower fuel consumption, lubricant closer to operating temp viscosity sooner...etc) without resorting to making ridiculous arguments that purposefully ignore the mechanical aspect of the engine warm-up process or that oil flow is somehow seriously compromised when an appropriate grade for the ambient conditions is being used. Even if the grade selection is sub-optimal for the operating conditions of the engine.

I'm actually in agreement with your stance on lubricant selection for the OP's vehicle. I just don't like the fear mongering.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Yes, you did say if the oil grade is light enough. You seem to have missed the point. Coolant comes up to temp before the oil does. Ergo, the situation you are describing doesn't exist.

It could happen, but not likely in any performance vehicles you or CATERHAM would be operating. Some in the sticks might yank their thermostats, for instance.
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

CATERHAM said:
If the oil grade is light enough, operating at it's design optimum operational viscosity,


Now, if an oil is at its design optimum operational viscosity, what temperature is that at? OPERATIONAL viscosity for a lubricant is around 100C.

Incorrect statements like that indicates you really don't understand the concept of operational viscosity at all.

Engines have a design optimum operational oil viscosity but the maximum oil temperatures achieved can vary dramatically depending on the operating conditions.

Yes oil temp's lag coolant temp's during warm-up (as I've often pointed out to members who don't have an oil temp' gauge) even in cars with oil/coolant heat exchangers especially if the sump capacity is large. And if ambient temp's are very low maximum oil temp's will be further limited. It's the reason a 20 grade oil can be used in the winter months when a 40 grade oil could be required in the summer under frequent WOT condition causing high oil temp's.

As I pointed out, even lighter grades are used in racing when otherwise normal operating temp's can't be obtained, during sprints, hillclimbs, drag racing and qualifying events. Doing so has nothing to do with fuel economy and usually not even the the hp gains.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Man this thread keeps going and going.

You guys still haven't figured out which oil to put in the OP's Infinity?
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Yeah, it's that thick vs thin argument than never dies on BITOG with the same old characters while the general automotive industry has long since moved on.

And yes the OP got his answer on page two. The spec' 5W-30 dino or syn' is fine and M1 0W-30 would be a good winter oil choice in his climate. He wisely bowed out after that.
 
Funny, here's what Honda have to say about starting cold and gunning it.

Honda.co.Jp translated

Quote:
Honda genuine engine oil
Ultra GOLD

100% chemical synthesis high performance engine oil for high-output engine
■ from low-temperature region immediately after the start until the harsh situation of sports driving, etc.,
Protect your engine with excellent low temperature fluidity and high temperature stability
Viscosity specification
SAE 5W-40
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM


Yes oil temp's lag coolant temp's during warm-up (as I've often pointed out to members who don't have an oil temp' gauge) even in cars with oil/coolant heat exchangers especially if the sump capacity is large. And if ambient temp's are very low maximum oil temp's will be further limited. It's the reason a 20 grade oil can be used in the winter months when a 40 grade oil could be required in the summer under frequent WOT condition causing high oil temp's.

As I pointed out, even lighter grades are used in racing when otherwise normal operating temp's can't be obtained, during sprints, hillclimbs, drag racing and qualifying events. Doing so has nothing to do with fuel economy and usually not even the the hp gains.



You probably need a thicker oil in the winter if anything as the oil will be running cooler and suffer from more condensation. It will struggle to boil off water and fuel and hence the oil will thin out. 0W-40 is better here for ensuring the oil doesnt thin out excessively

0W-40s often have better cold temperature peformance than 0W-20s too. Many 0W-20 API SN oils can be made with Group £ only. 0W-40s need PAO + Group III +

I guess dilution isnt a big problem in the US though, as you guys change your oil once and month :p It can be a factor on 15k mile changes.

Hill climbs and sprints are hardly evidence for needing a thin oil to rag it from cold.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

If the oil grade is light enough, operating at it's design optimum operational viscosity,


Now, if an oil is at its design optimum operational viscosity, what temperature is that at? OPERATIONAL viscosity for a lubricant is around 100C.

Incorrect statements like that indicates you really don't understand the concept of operational viscosity at all.


I think it clearly indicates you don't know how to convey what you are trying to say here.

You specifically stated:

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

If the oil grade is light enough, operating at it's design optimum operational viscosity


If the oil is operating at its design optimum operational viscosity, it would be around the 100C mark, as that's generally regarded as "operating temperature". At this point it would be in its range of "optimum operational viscosity". Because you are specifically speaking about the oil grade here, as that's what you preface this statement with.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Engines have a design optimum operational oil viscosity but the maximum oil temperatures achieved can vary dramatically depending on the operating conditions.


Ahhhh, so you were trying to say the ENGINE's optimal viscosity range (which would be interesting for you to qualify BTW). That makes more sense. It doesn't make your point any more valid, but at least I see what you are trying to point out now.

That still doesn't allow for the scenario you tried to depict earlier though. If an engine is spec'd for a 40-weight and it generally runs the oil around 14cSt when hot, and this is the recommended grade by the OEM, this would be relatively close to "optimum" for the engine as defined by the OEM. Of course there's going to be a bit of leeway in either direction but generally, let's say that in the range of 12-16cSt is "optimum" for this particular engine.

Using a 0w-20, that oil would have to be at at least 70C to be within the engine's designed operating viscosity range. This puts the coolant up well above 70C, within its normal operating range.

And this completely ignores the fact that it isn't just viscosity, but also the additives in the oil, which are sensitive to heat to activate, which are important here.


Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes oil temp's lag coolant temp's during warm-up (as I've often pointed out to members who don't have an oil temp' gauge) even in cars with oil/coolant heat exchangers especially if the sump capacity is large. And if ambient temp's are very low maximum oil temp's will be further limited. It's the reason a 20 grade oil can be used in the winter months when a 40 grade oil could be required in the summer under frequent WOT condition causing high oil temp's.


that still doesn't make your scenario about the oil being "optimum" before the engine is up to temp exist though. That situation doesn't happen. Does it make a lighter oil more optimum for an engine in colder ambient conditions? Of course, I've never argued otherwise. That's why cars used to spec a wide range of lubricants depending on anticipated ambient. But that's not what you were arguing.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
As I pointed out, even lighter grades are used in racing when otherwise normal operating temp's can't be obtained, during sprints, hillclimbs, drag racing and qualifying events. Doing so has nothing to do with fuel economy and usually not even the the hp gains.


But in those situations neither the oil or coolant are anywhere near optimum. And coolant will still hit operating temp before the oil gets close. The oil just has to remain heavy enough to prevent failure. Since this is entirely temperature dependant, a thinner lubricant can safely be used.

If oil just stayed one viscosity; if it didn't get thick and didn't get thin, your scenario could play out. As it stands, any lubricant that is 14cSt before the coolant is at operating temp is going to be massively too thin when the coolant gets there.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
If oil just stayed one viscosity; if it didn't get thick and didn't get thin, your scenario could play out. As it stands, any lubricant that is 14cSt before the coolant is at operating temp is going to be massively too thin when the coolant gets there.


If it stayed at one viscosity, as CATERHAM/oil 101 desire, you would need AW additives that function at -20/-30C ... as the engine would be operating in mixed/boundary lubrication from the second that you turned the key, rather than being protected by the viscosity until the add pack gets working...
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
If oil just stayed one viscosity; if it didn't get thick and didn't get thin, your scenario could play out. As it stands, any lubricant that is 14cSt before the coolant is at operating temp is going to be massively too thin when the coolant gets there.


If it stayed at one viscosity, as CATERHAM/oil 101 desire, you would need AW additives that function at -20/-30C ... as the engine would be operating in mixed/boundary lubrication from the second that you turned the key, rather than being protected by the viscosity until the add pack gets working...


Very good point. Another aspect of this that needs to be considered (and I mentioned in the context of warm-up earlier).
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL


If an engine is spec'd for a 40-weight and it generally runs the oil around 14cSt when hot, and this is the recommended grade by the OEM, this would be relatively close to "optimum" for the engine as defined by the OEM. Of course there's going to be a bit of leeway in either direction but generally, let's say that in the range of 12-16cSt is "optimum" for this particular engine.

No, a 40 grade oil (12-16cSt) is way heavier than optimum @ 100C
oil temp' for any engine. In fact most engine oil pumps will still be in bypass at that temp' with a 15-16cSt oil.
An oil's optimum viscosity in HTHSV terms will be somewhere in the 3.5-4.5cP range at all oil temp's if such a lubricant could be invented. (I'll be posting on recent developments in that regard when I find the time).

A 2.6cP HTHS rated 20 grade oil has a HTHSV of around 6cP at 100C so it's still thicker than optimum at that temperature for all engines.
It's the reason more and more manufacturers are specifying that grade and lighter. So aside from availability issues with 20 grade oils, 30 and 40 grades are spec'd to deal with viscosity loss associated with very high oil temp's, fuel dilution and one oil shear.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL


If an engine is spec'd for a 40-weight and it generally runs the oil around 14cSt when hot, and this is the recommended grade by the OEM, this would be relatively close to "optimum" for the engine as defined by the OEM. Of course there's going to be a bit of leeway in either direction but generally, let's say that in the range of 12-16cSt is "optimum" for this particular engine.

No, a 40 grade oil (12-16cSt) is way heavier than optimum @ 100C
oil temp' for any engine. In fact most engine oil pumps will still be in bypass at that temp' with a 15-16cSt oil.
An oil's optimum viscosity in HTHSV terms will be somewhere in the 3.5-4.5cP range at all oil temp's if such a lubricant could be invented. (I'll be posting on recent developments in that regard when I find the time).


Can you expand on this please? The "optimum" visc for any engine is going to depend on bearing width, diameter and load, it isn't a static value. If an engine is designed for an oil >=3.5cP HTHS; KV100 somewhere around a heavy 30, light 40, then that's optimal for that design; that design, at standard operating temperatures will be protected adequately with that viscosity.

I know my oil pump certainly isn't in relief when my oil is much above 75 degrees for example (based on data logs from guys on M5 board with oil pressure gauges). It takes reasonably high RPM to activate the relief and that point of course shifts up as we approach 100C sump temps. Similar to my experience that I've posted about with the SBF on here before as well, where, at standard operating temperature and "normal" summer oil temps, relief actuation is close to redline. Oil pressure was in the mid 30's at idle, relief was 65psi.

I'm not 100% sure on what you are saying, and that's why I'm asking for you expand on this. As it stands, oils with the HTHS value you've cited are all in the KV100 range that I mentioned; the same range at the opening of your post you are saying are too heavy but then go on to say that those same oils, but using their HTHS visc values, are "optimum"
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We know bulk sump temp and bearing temp are different, that's why HTHS is measured at 150C instead of 100C like KV100 is, as they are designed to reflect "normal" operating temperatures for sump and bearings.

As per your last point, yes, an oil that doesn't change in visc due to heat or cold and could maintain a constant viscosity would be ideal, but of course that doesn't exist. All we can do is try and minimize the amount of change between our coldest starting temperature and highest operating temperature. I know that's why you chase VI, and that's the same reason I like to look at CCS and MRV when choosing an oil that is within the viscosity range specified by the OEM for my vehicle. I'm more concerned about the coldest temps I'm going to encounter than I am about visc change between a hot start in the summer and operating temperature. I have several decades of experience with boats and in the last 15 years, car engines, to show me that the latter isn't an issue. I've never worn out an engine with this approach; I've never had an engine fail, and my tear-downs and tear downs of guys I know in the Mustang scene show that running a high quality lubricant changed at a sane interval works to prevent wear. We've never looked at VI as a contributor to oil choice, always the hot viscosity rating relative to power output and ensuring adequate oil pressure was maintained.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
A 2.6cP HTHS rated 20 grade oil has a HTHSV of around 6cP at 100C so it's still thicker than optimum at that temperature for all engines.
It's the reason more and more manufacturers are specifying that grade and lighter. So aside from availability issues with 20 grade oils, 30 and 40 grades are spec'd to deal with viscosity loss associated with very high oil temp's, fuel dilution and one oil shear.


Except bearing temp and sump temp aren't the same. I believe you and Shannow have discussed heat rise in bearings vs bulk oil temp before, no? We can't just look at bulk sump temp, extrapolate HTHSV from that temp and assume it is too heavy in the bearings if the bearings want an HTHSV of 4cP for example. At the current bearing temp, that oil may BE 4cP. That's why bearing design, width, diameter, clearance...etc are important factors.

Engines built for 20 grade oils "from the ground up" are:

1. More rigid in terms of bottom end construction. A great example of this is the Ford Modular. Ford put a lot of effort in ensuring that, compared to its Windsor predecessor, the Modular would keep the bottom end in one place and this was done to accommodate the push to thinner oils.

2. Have wider bearings.

3. Have higher volume (and often higher pressure) oil pumps. See the Modular again for this.

4. Are often fitted with oil coolers to keep oil temperature under control to maintain a minimum viscosity. See the HD towing package and police package on Modular equipped trucks, Police Cars and taxi cabs for examples of this
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I believe it was Honda we discussed recently that has gone to wider bearings on their new engines in anticipation of the adoption of the 16 grade oils, no?

I know that a lot of this stuff, we like to think it is static to make it work with our point of view, but a lot of it is incredibly dynamic and changes based on many of the factors we've already discussed like the intended operating environment of the engine, various design parameters, power density of the engine, which will heat the oil faster and also put more pressure on the bearings, the number of cylinders; a high power 4-banger may have greater cylinder load and subsequently pressure on the rod bearings and a forced induction app guarantees this.

And on top of that, every lubricant is a compromise in some way, shape or form. There's no "perfect" oil. An oil that will protect a high strung engine on the track will be too heavy for optimal efficiency tooling around town in a short tripper.

This is what I find fascinating about what Honda's doing right now in Japan with their new engines specifically designed for these ultra-light lubricants; lubricants so light they don't even have an SAE grade associated with them, LOL! These oils also have INCREDIBLY high VI's, using, admittedly, a great deal of VII, and high quality, but extremely light base stocks. The big issue with them, as mentioned in the one paper somebody linked, is that volatility (NOACK) becomes an issue and will be a big issue with approvals. And there is part of our compromise. Shannow has also mentioned increased levels of boundary lubrication as well as drag caused by these wider bearings in order to allow these oils to be used, but obviously the advantage offered by the thinner lubricant must be more than enough to offset the increased friction in these areas or Honda wouldn't be doing it.

I also found it noteworthy that Honda SPECIFICALLY states NOT to use these lubricants in engines other than those that were designed for it. Obviously they feel it is too thin to provide adequate protection in conventional applications.
 
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