Oil Question and a little smoke Jeep 4.7 V8

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Messages
14
Location
South Africa
hi every one!!
not sure if this is the right place to post this!!

this is going to be a longish one!!

when I got the Jeep, we left for holiday soon after, less then 48hrs later!!

at our destination checked oil level and found it needed 1/2L often referred to a as pint!!

wasent sure what oil was in there so top it up with semi synthetic that I had with me!!

on the way home with the towing and all, there was no oil consumption!!
witch I though was great!!

as we dont drive the Jeep much, have been doing fluid changes one for one with no rush!!
engine oil was the 1st one, and here comes ALL the questions!!

the general spares parts shops this side dont normaly keep 5w 30

so I went with 5w 40 also a fully synthetic witch is readily available!!
have since sourced where to get 5w-30, however too late for this oil change!!

out of town to get 5w-30 at the filling stations, is almost like chicken teeth, have been keeping an eye out and have not see one yet, just in case a top up is needed on a long trip

now since the oil change, when at a traffic light and either I give a little rev or pull away there is a little smoke, and then gone!!
from my knowledge that is from the top (head, valves, guids, vasve seals . . .)

we did a long trip two weeks ago, and had to go through a toll gate, and stood in a small Que, when I pulled away there was no smoke and I was towing about 1ton

if it stands and idles and I give a little rev there is smoke, from the smell it sometimes smells like its rich and sometimes a little oil smell in the smoke!!

in 1500km since the oil change, its used about 1/2l of oil, have not even toped it up yet!!

the oil is still very clean, so presume its not on the rings or/and pistons
exhaust is clean when I wipe the exhaust my finger comes out clean clean!!
when its cold only water from condensation!!

power is all there, it feels strong, and maybe just my impression, it feels even stronger then what it did before the diff and engine oil was changed!!

oil pressure, again maybe just my impression, could be slightly higher when cold, however we are also going into winter and temp have started to drop!!

since I have had the jeep, it has not run hot
the hottest it did get was where the needle went just just over the 1/2 way mark, just that the half way line was visible, however then I was towing 1.7 tons up the steepest heels that I have ever traveled!!

did google searches where I concluded that it could be from the top!! am no expert and hence need you guys expert help!!

now is it:

1. valve guides that are worn
2. is it valve seals and valve guides that are worn

or

3. due to not all the old oil having been drained out(some old oil always stays behind in cavities) that has mixed with the new oil that is being burned away!!

4. the wrong oil is couzing it to smoke on the weakest point, in my case from the top

used shell oil

hope I have given all the facts
all help will be highly appreciated

thanking all in advance!!
Trolling.gif
 
What year 4.7, what model Jeep, and how many miles (or kilometers) on the engine?

I agree that a puff of smoke after idling sounds like valve stem seals. Rings cause smoke on coast-down or the first opening of the throttle after a coast-down. 40-wt oil instead of the specified 30-wt (newer 4.7s spec 20-wt) might cause consumption past the rings, but is very unlikely to cause consumption past the valves. I suspect it just needs new valve stem seals (or just ignore it- its fairly harmless).
 
thanx for the reply!!

its a 2001 model
as for millage, the instrument cluster was replaced sometime before I bought the vehicle, so only have the millage from the new cluster

as for the ignoring it if its just valve stem seals, huge chance that am going to that till one day when I am real board and decide to change valve stem seals, witch wont be any time soon!!
laugh.gif


more replies welcome!!
 
I have an 01' Durango with a 4.7 liter engine that has about 87K on the odometer. Last year I had heavy carbon build up and had my heads worked on to repair. My truck engine specs. 5W-30 and use a synthetic oil in it as much as possible. What I'd do is have your mechanic do a good tune on the engine and re-fill with the synthtic of your chooseing and take it for a spin on the highway to see if your MPG is effected by the oil consumption. If you can get 19-21 MPG using careful driving techniques then your pretty much in the ball park and your fine.

So far my engine doesn't consume any oil that I see from my dip stick.

If you want...there are other forums that specialize in Chrysler/Dodge engine so you can get more detailed info regarding your delima. Chrysler engine have history of mechanical issues including their V-6 engines.

Good luck,

Durango
 
If you want...there are other forums that specialize in Chrysler/Dodge engine so you can get more detailed info regarding your delima. Chrysler engine have history of mechanical issues including their V-6 engines.

I wasent aware that long life was an issue...
 
Durango
as for fuel consumption, that is no issue
to work and back can get just over 24miles to gallon

depending on the right foot, it can go from great fuel consumption (we work in km/L or L/100km)

have seen on the over head display, between work and home 9.7/9.8L/100 (just over 24miles/gallon)all the way to 1km/l(2.375miles/gallon) when we were towing 1700kg on some very steep up heels

AC TC, see that you get around!! see you also on Allpar

thanx for all the replies and advice
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Durango

Chrysler engine have history of mechanical issues including their V-6 engines.

Good luck,

Durango


My friend, I don't know what you're smokin, but it aint good for ya.

Chrysler vehicles have had their share of flaws, I won't argue that, but ENGINES are absolutely NOT among the shortcomings. Between 1920 and 2011, there have been exactly TWO Chrysler engine that I would consider "flawed" or "problematic." The first one was the 2.2L DOHC turbo used in the Dodge Spirit R/T and the Daytona IROC R/T. The problem was that timing belts lasted about 10,000 miles and the heads cracked... but given that it was a low-production (less than 10,000 built IIRC) and basically a prototype, it gets a break. The other inexcusable one was the 2.7L v6, which was demanded by Daimler management. Everyone is really glad to see it get ashcanned in now that the "Pentastar" v6 is out.

All other Chrysler engines are pretty much bulletproof and will run until the car falls apart around them. In fact some of them are legendary for it (the slant-6, 318, 2.2L 4-cylinder, 3.3/3.8 V6, and 383 are some of the best known ). The 4.7 is pretty much following in that mold- very few problems encountered under 200,000 miles with them.
 
Originally Posted By: kfxnando
Durango
as for fuel consumption, that is no issue
to work and back can get just over 24miles to gallon

depending on the right foot, it can go from great fuel consumption (we work in km/L or L/100km)

have seen on the over head display, between work and home 9.7/9.8L/100 (just over 24miles/gallon)all the way to 1km/l(2.375miles/gallon) when we were towing 1700kg on some very steep up heels

AC TC, see that you get around!! see you also on Allpar

thanx for all the replies and advice
grin.gif



kfxnando,

You have a better gas foot than I do!! My best MPG was long ago when driving from L.A. to Arizona and back. On a good day I can gas it up as high as the tank would allow and under the right conditions go all the way with a 1/8 tank left to spare and back home. One tank going and one coming back....not bad for a V-8 engine. This is assuming I can get 21.2 MPG. After this I haveen't been able to achieve again.

Durango
 
If you sit an an idle for a while and there is a puff smoke when pulling off then most likely your valve seals have hardened and no longer seal.

At an idle an engine produces more vacumm and is pulling oil through the valve seals. I had a Dodge truck that did the same thing. A thinker oil and the engine used less oil. When I had a chanch I replaced the valve seals. I removed the plugs and one at a time I stuck a lenth of nylon rope down into the plug hole and turned the engine until the rope was jammed between the piston and valves. It was real easy in this truck. The engine never burned any more oil even with 5w20. Check your compression, if good replace those seals.
 
Originally Posted By: Bullet
If you sit an an idle for a while and there is a puff smoke when pulling off then most likely your valve seals have hardened and no longer seal.

At an idle an engine produces more vacumm and is pulling oil through the valve seals. I had a Dodge truck that did the same thing. A thinker oil and the engine used less oil. When I had a chanch I replaced the valve seals. I removed the plugs and one at a time I stuck a lenth of nylon rope down into the plug hole and turned the engine until the rope was jammed between the piston and valves. It was real easy in this truck. The engine never burned any more oil even with 5w20. Check your compression, if good replace those seals.


thanx!!

yep, have heard of doing valve stem seals that way, the other way, is with compressed air into the spark plug holes with both valves closed!!

as for a compression test, that is a good idea, however, think that if there was a pot that was not right, engine oil would of gone dirty by now, and would not of been as strong as it is!!
will keep the compression test in mind!!

thanx!!
cool.gif
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: kfxnando
Originally Posted By: Bullet
If you sit an an idle for a while and there is a puff smoke when pulling off then most likely your valve seals have hardened and no longer seal.

At an idle an engine produces more vacumm and is pulling oil through the valve seals. I had a Dodge truck that did the same thing. A thinker oil and the engine used less oil. When I had a chanch I replaced the valve seals. I removed the plugs and one at a time I stuck a lenth of nylon rope down into the plug hole and turned the engine until the rope was jammed between the piston and valves. It was real easy in this truck. The engine never burned any more oil even with 5w20. Check your compression, if good replace those seals.


thanx!!

yep, have heard of doing valve stem seals that way, the other way, is with compressed air into the spark plug holes with both valves closed!!

as for a compression test, that is a good idea, however, think that if there was a pot that was not right, engine oil would of gone dirty by now, and would not of been as strong as it is!!
will keep the compression test in mind!!

thanx!!
cool.gif
smile.gif



Just FYI, valve stem seals on a 4.7 aren't going to be as quick and painless as on a pushrod v8. The cam has to come off the head, and that's a lot of work because you need to carefully preserve the timing. I've also not seen many reported cases of valve stem seal issues with the 4.7 the way you used to see that problem with the 318 (5.2) and 360 (5.9) pushrod engines. I'd try to be VERY certain that you really need stem seals before diving in, and its not something simple like a bad PCV valve letting too much oil mist accumulate and pool in the PCV hose, then giving a puff of oil when you accelerate.
 
if it is just the valve stem seals, then not going to rush the repair just yet!!
however, when the time does come, maybe I can find a good set of second hand HO cams and do it all in one go!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top