Meets manufactures spec. and certification for my engine
Meets manufactures spec. for grade
Easily obtainable on sale
Meets manufactures spec. for grade
Easily obtainable on sale
Oil qualities influencing your decision to buy
- Thread starter OilUzer
- Start date
- Status
Top 3 criteria...
1. HTHS
2. NOACK
3. Anti-wear (ZDDP)
Bottom 3 criteria...
3. Price
2. CCS
1. Pour point
1. HTHS
2. NOACK
3. Anti-wear (ZDDP)
Bottom 3 criteria...
3. Price
2. CCS
1. Pour point
Last edited:
Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by rsalan
Originally Posted by MCompact
Graphics on bottle
+1. I gotta hand it to Castrol with some of their graphics being excellent.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.castrol.com/content/dam/castrolcountry/en_za/Products/Other-products/MAGNATEC-10W-40.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://i5.walmartimages.ca/images/Large/201/563/999999-5601201563.jpg "[Linked Image]")
I actually used the magnatec graphic for a facebook group cover.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/245904376271925/
Originally Posted by rsalan
Originally Posted by MCompact
Graphics on bottle
+1. I gotta hand it to Castrol with some of their graphics being excellent.
I actually used the magnatec graphic for a facebook group cover.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/245904376271925/
Price and specified viscosity. I plan to move up to a 5w30 next change on the Fridge.
Bud_One
Site Donor 2022
1. Meets the specs I need .
2. Price
3. HTHS
2. Price
3. HTHS
Cool Valvoline Jug.
Realistically, any oil that meets the required specs for my engines in the recommended grade at less that ten bucks a jug after store deals and MIRs is what's going in.
All of the oils used in the cars in my sig meet this criterion, even the SSO I got at a deal, although it's in easy to pour quarts.
There are some low NOAK and low ccv/mrv oils in this group, as tig is well aware.
NOACK combined with ccv/mrv tell you all you can really know about base oil blend used, since no blender is entirely honest in disclosing this.
All of the oils used in the cars in my sig meet this criterion, even the SSO I got at a deal, although it's in easy to pour quarts.
There are some low NOAK and low ccv/mrv oils in this group, as tig is well aware.
NOACK combined with ccv/mrv tell you all you can really know about base oil blend used, since no blender is entirely honest in disclosing this.
Originally Posted by beanoil
3. Do I have room? ( He who dies with the most oil wins.. outwit, outlast, outplay.)
If you're over sixty, don't buy green bananas and don't have more than 3 gallons of oil in the garage.
3. Do I have room? ( He who dies with the most oil wins.. outwit, outlast, outplay.)
If you're over sixty, don't buy green bananas and don't have more than 3 gallons of oil in the garage.
API SN or greater full synthetic
Brand that I have seen several VOAs and UOAs here
Cost locally or Amazon. Rebates count. Shoot for < $12 for full synthetic.
Brand that I have seen several VOAs and UOAs here
Cost locally or Amazon. Rebates count. Shoot for < $12 for full synthetic.
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Originally Posted by beanoil
3. Do I have room? ( He who dies with the most oil wins.. outwit, outlast, outplay.)
If you're over sixty, don't buy green bananas and don't have more than 3 gallons of oil in the garage.
I've currently been breaking your rules for nearly 15 years.
Originally Posted by beanoil
3. Do I have room? ( He who dies with the most oil wins.. outwit, outlast, outplay.)
If you're over sixty, don't buy green bananas and don't have more than 3 gallons of oil in the garage.
I've currently been breaking your rules for nearly 15 years.
1. Specs...0W20, SN+. D1G2.
2. Base Stock.
3. Value.
This all leads to Walmart, of course.
--5 Qt jug at ~$22.
--M1 EP (PAO) or PP (GTL).
--Readily available.
It's a no brainer.
I choose PP 0W20/10k mi OCI..
And will stick with that.
2. Base Stock.
3. Value.
This all leads to Walmart, of course.
--5 Qt jug at ~$22.
--M1 EP (PAO) or PP (GTL).
--Readily available.
It's a no brainer.
I choose PP 0W20/10k mi OCI..
And will stick with that.
Depends on the car.
My STI? I go by HTHS, Ester, and value.. so I usually go with redline 0w40 for like $11/quart
Every other car in my house? the cheapest synthetic
My STI? I go by HTHS, Ester, and value.. so I usually go with redline 0w40 for like $11/quart
Every other car in my house? the cheapest synthetic
Originally Posted by OilUzer
What's are the top 3 parameters you may consider (if any) when selecting an oil.
1. API rating
2. Price
3. Price/brand
Many years ago I cared about brand, for decades I was right to do so, there USED to be good and bad oils, no more.
API took care of that, any engine will last just as long on any brand at any price if you use the oil stated in your owners manual.
So now, I use API SN at the lowest price and almost every time conventional. Sometimes "branding" still gets the better of me, so instead of lets say Super Tech conventional at $12 for 5 quarts I may go for Chevron Conventional for $13 for 5 quarts.
)
and my daughters car, since she lives 2 hours away and I know she will run that oil till the last minute all through the winter I just put in Super Tech Syn for $15 - 5 quarts. I figured it was worth the extra $2.
There used to be big differences in oil, even magazines like Consumer Reports would test oils DECADES ago. But now, all the additives/packages are made by a handful of companies, just like TVs made in Asia, its all the same and no one can prove any will damage a car engine because they all meet the same API.
Hate to say it and know it will ruffle feathers in here but any engine will outlast the vehicle by using the recommended API oil in the owners manual at any price. Syn or Conv, doesnt matter.
if the engine doesnt last, it wasnt the oil, it was the design of the engine and NO oil will overcome the design. No matter what the marketing department of any oil company says.
To be quite honest, I know the Chevron Conventional Oil in our Mazda Skyactive will prevent wear just as good and better then an oil like Redline.
With all this said, I do change oil sooner rather then later, never wait to the oil change monitor to tell me to change.
If I was one to wait to the maximum oil change interval I would maybe select a synthetic like Super Tech over conventional because synthetic is more stable/less like to sludge (maybe), it does not mean there will be less wear however, as conventional oils have some very good anti wear properties that get "refined out" when its turned into synthetic.
Many manufacturers say if synthetic is used it does not extend oil change intervals.
What's are the top 3 parameters you may consider (if any) when selecting an oil.
1. API rating
2. Price
3. Price/brand
Many years ago I cared about brand, for decades I was right to do so, there USED to be good and bad oils, no more.
API took care of that, any engine will last just as long on any brand at any price if you use the oil stated in your owners manual.
So now, I use API SN at the lowest price and almost every time conventional. Sometimes "branding" still gets the better of me, so instead of lets say Super Tech conventional at $12 for 5 quarts I may go for Chevron Conventional for $13 for 5 quarts.
)and my daughters car, since she lives 2 hours away and I know she will run that oil till the last minute all through the winter I just put in Super Tech Syn for $15 - 5 quarts. I figured it was worth the extra $2.
There used to be big differences in oil, even magazines like Consumer Reports would test oils DECADES ago. But now, all the additives/packages are made by a handful of companies, just like TVs made in Asia, its all the same and no one can prove any will damage a car engine because they all meet the same API.
Hate to say it and know it will ruffle feathers in here but any engine will outlast the vehicle by using the recommended API oil in the owners manual at any price. Syn or Conv, doesnt matter.
if the engine doesnt last, it wasnt the oil, it was the design of the engine and NO oil will overcome the design. No matter what the marketing department of any oil company says.
To be quite honest, I know the Chevron Conventional Oil in our Mazda Skyactive will prevent wear just as good and better then an oil like Redline.
With all this said, I do change oil sooner rather then later, never wait to the oil change monitor to tell me to change.
If I was one to wait to the maximum oil change interval I would maybe select a synthetic like Super Tech over conventional because synthetic is more stable/less like to sludge (maybe), it does not mean there will be less wear however, as conventional oils have some very good anti wear properties that get "refined out" when its turned into synthetic.
Many manufacturers say if synthetic is used it does not extend oil change intervals.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Originally Posted by OilUzer
What's are the top 3 parameters you may consider (if any) when selecting an oil.
1. API rating
2. Price
3. Price/brand
Many years ago I cared about brand, for decades I was right to do so, there USED to be good and bad oils, no more.
API took care of that, any engine will last just as long on any brand at any price if you use the oil stated in your owners manual.
So now, I use API SN at the lowest price and almost every time conventional. Sometimes "branding" still gets the better of me, so instead of lets say Super Tech conventional at $12 for 5 quarts I may go for Chevron Conventional for $13 for 5 quarts.)
and my daughters car, since she lives 2 hours away and I know she will run that oil till the last minute all through the winter I just put in Super Tech Syn for $15 - 5 quarts. I figured it was worth the extra $2.
There used to be big differences in oil, even magazines like Consumer Reports would test oils DECADES ago. But now, all the additives/packages are made by a handful of companies, just like TVs made in Asia, its all the same and no one can prove any will damage a car engine because they all meet the same API.
Hate to say it and know it will ruffle feathers in here but any engine will outlast the vehicle by using the recommended API oil in the owners manual at any price. Syn or Conv, doesnt matter.
if the engine doesnt last, it wasnt the oil, it was the design of the engine and NO oil will overcome the design. No matter what the marketing department of any oil company says.
To be quite honest, I know the Chevron Conventional Oil in our Mazda Skyactive will prevent wear just as good and better then an oil like Redline.
With all this said, I do change oil sooner rather then later, never wait to the oil change monitor to tell me to change.
If I was one to wait to the maximum oil change interval I would maybe select a synthetic like Super Tech over conventional because synthetic is more stable/less like to sludge (maybe), it does not mean there will be less wear however, as conventional oils have some very good anti wear properties that get "refined out" when its turned into synthetic.
Many manufacturers say if synthetic is used it does not extend oil change intervals.
So, exactly what brand of oil do you use? Quit teasing all of us
Originally Posted by OilUzer
What's are the top 3 parameters you may consider (if any) when selecting an oil.
1. API rating
2. Price
3. Price/brand
Many years ago I cared about brand, for decades I was right to do so, there USED to be good and bad oils, no more.
API took care of that, any engine will last just as long on any brand at any price if you use the oil stated in your owners manual.
So now, I use API SN at the lowest price and almost every time conventional. Sometimes "branding" still gets the better of me, so instead of lets say Super Tech conventional at $12 for 5 quarts I may go for Chevron Conventional for $13 for 5 quarts.
)and my daughters car, since she lives 2 hours away and I know she will run that oil till the last minute all through the winter I just put in Super Tech Syn for $15 - 5 quarts. I figured it was worth the extra $2.
There used to be big differences in oil, even magazines like Consumer Reports would test oils DECADES ago. But now, all the additives/packages are made by a handful of companies, just like TVs made in Asia, its all the same and no one can prove any will damage a car engine because they all meet the same API.
Hate to say it and know it will ruffle feathers in here but any engine will outlast the vehicle by using the recommended API oil in the owners manual at any price. Syn or Conv, doesnt matter.
if the engine doesnt last, it wasnt the oil, it was the design of the engine and NO oil will overcome the design. No matter what the marketing department of any oil company says.
To be quite honest, I know the Chevron Conventional Oil in our Mazda Skyactive will prevent wear just as good and better then an oil like Redline.
With all this said, I do change oil sooner rather then later, never wait to the oil change monitor to tell me to change.
If I was one to wait to the maximum oil change interval I would maybe select a synthetic like Super Tech over conventional because synthetic is more stable/less like to sludge (maybe), it does not mean there will be less wear however, as conventional oils have some very good anti wear properties that get "refined out" when its turned into synthetic.
Many manufacturers say if synthetic is used it does not extend oil change intervals.
So, exactly what brand of oil do you use? Quit teasing all of us
My hemi chooses the oil for me, I'm pretty sure is it blind to brand, but it sure isn't deaf to formula. UOA's just proved the engine was right, ester/pao high moly oils make a difference. Butter Smooth sound is what I look for, and as it turns out long term use leads to low wear numbers.
Originally Posted by burla
My hemi chooses the oil for me, I'm pretty sure is it blind to brand, but it sure isn't deaf to formula. UOA's just proved the engine was right, ester/pao high moly oils make a difference. Butter Smooth sound is what I look for, and as it turns out long term use leads to low wear numbers.
C'mon burla, you can say the R word
High moly is one of my top 3 along with base group (one that can absorb or mix well with moly - still researching this) and my other top 3 is hths. Don't have a hemi but have experienced (with tgmo) and also have talked to many over the years with the same conclusion ... some cars "sound" smooth(er) with oils that have higher amount of moly. not sure if these oils also happen to have higher amount of other additives (zddp?) that maybe contributing or not ...
I think that's why top 3 can be different for everyone depending on your experience and what kind of car you drive!
My hemi chooses the oil for me, I'm pretty sure is it blind to brand, but it sure isn't deaf to formula. UOA's just proved the engine was right, ester/pao high moly oils make a difference. Butter Smooth sound is what I look for, and as it turns out long term use leads to low wear numbers.
C'mon burla, you can say the R word
High moly is one of my top 3 along with base group (one that can absorb or mix well with moly - still researching this) and my other top 3 is hths. Don't have a hemi but have experienced (with tgmo) and also have talked to many over the years with the same conclusion ... some cars "sound" smooth(er) with oils that have higher amount of moly. not sure if these oils also happen to have higher amount of other additives (zddp?) that maybe contributing or not ...
I think that's why top 3 can be different for everyone depending on your experience and what kind of car you drive!
HTHS
Price
Availability
I run M1 HM 10w-30. I pay about $13 for a 5qt jug after rebate
Price
Availability
I run M1 HM 10w-30. I pay about $13 for a 5qt jug after rebate
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Quite simple actually,I buy what I want when I want!
It depends on the car and how I use it. I like to do a bit of research to see if
For the Jetta I just use whatever has the 502.00 spec and is cheap. It's just a 2.slow. It'll live to see another day long after the body is too far gone to see another day.
When it comes to the FRS I'm a bit more worried about what kind of oil I use. After reading about people randomly spinning bearings on the FA20 engine with 0w20, I'm gravitating towards something thicker. Especially because Subaru Japan recommends 0w30 and 5w40 for these engines with spirited driving. I've got some Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 I'm going to use for the next two seasons. After that it's going to be whatever 5w40 or 0w40 euro oil I can get cheap. Same oil for both cars!
For the Jetta I just use whatever has the 502.00 spec and is cheap. It's just a 2.slow. It'll live to see another day long after the body is too far gone to see another day.
When it comes to the FRS I'm a bit more worried about what kind of oil I use. After reading about people randomly spinning bearings on the FA20 engine with 0w20, I'm gravitating towards something thicker. Especially because Subaru Japan recommends 0w30 and 5w40 for these engines with spirited driving. I've got some Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 I'm going to use for the next two seasons. After that it's going to be whatever 5w40 or 0w40 euro oil I can get cheap. Same oil for both cars!
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